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1088XEL Atari ITX Motherboard DIY Builders Thread


Firedawg

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One thing to point out: Not all LED's have a flat side as shown on the silk screen.

 

The Green and Yellow LED's from Digi-Key called out on the BOM are rounded.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/lite-on-inc/LTL-4231N/160-1142-ND/214440

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/lite-on-inc/LTL-4251N/160-1145-ND/149419

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One thing to point out: Not all LED's have a flat side as shown on the silk screen.

 

The Green and Yellow LED's from Digi-Key called out on the BOM are rounded.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/lite-on-inc/LTL-4231N/160-1142-ND/214440

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/lite-on-inc/LTL-4251N/160-1145-ND/149419

 

 

Yes, but they have a tiny little notch where the flat side normally would be.

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Yes, but they have a tiny little notch where the flat side normally would be.

Not on the ones I received. They may have subbed them?

 

The default way would be go by the length of the leads as the Anode is always longer than the Cathode.

post-26874-0-94741800-1522724751.jpg

Edited by AtariGeezer
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I sure hope this doesn't become a recurring theme where the LEDs keep getting put in backwards.

 

So lets all agree that the one common denominator of which lead goes in the square pad, will be the short lead, which equates to the cathode (minus side of LED). Thank you AtariGeezer for pointing that out :).

 

And just to be perfectly clear, that only refers to actual on-board LEDs, and not to ones connected to headers such as the stereo, vgate, or SIO, where the square pad is associated with pin 1 of the header and does not represent polarity.

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Th

 

Not to berate Lavalamp, but as a note/warning/reminder to folks who later begin a build, it’s probably worth telling everyone who starts to at least scan through the (many!) pages of the entire thread - at this point, 4+ months since people began building, there’s a good shot someone has already had the same assembly issue or made a mistake they might avoid.

E.g., I installed my power LED’s backwards waaaaay back in January (and many pages earlier!) and all this was covered there. I hate for Michael to feel like he has to repeat these lessons every time one of us has made a mistake.

 

 

The thing is I did read your account and was determined to not make the same mistake, but I guess my dyslexia kicked in when it came to fitting them :( I have to wait for replacement LED's now...

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The thing is I did read your account and was determined to not make the same mistake, but I guess my dyslexia kicked in when it came to fitting them :( I have to wait for replacement LED's now...

 

If you didn't live so far away me, I would seriously consider sending you some freebies from my stash. But lately I'm bit overdrawn on my shipping budget after sending out a bunch more stuff to the beta testers recently. but if getting a couple of replacement LEDs becomes a logistical problem for you, please let me know and I'll see what I can do.

 

BTW a little trick that I like to use before putting LEDs in a board, is to use the diode setting on my voltmeter to light them up out of circuit, to verify that they indeed work and also to make sure of the polarity in case the leads were already cut (happens a lot when I pull them from my R&D stock). If you got the black and red test leads in the correct spots on your meter, that will tell you the polarity when the LED dimly lights up.

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If you didn't live so far away me, I would seriously consider sending you some freebies from my stash. But lately I'm bit overdrawn on my shipping budget after sending out a bunch more stuff to the beta testers recently. but if getting a couple of replacement LEDs becomes a logistical problem for you, please let me know and I'll see what I can do.

 

I'll toss a few your way to help with the shipping - you bailed me out, and I'm having an absolute BLAST with the demo card you sent out.

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I'll toss a few your way to help with the shipping - you bailed me out, and I'm having an absolute BLAST with the demo card you sent out.

 

People keep telling me I should put a donate button on my site... and since I've been working on a pretty complete revamp of the 1088XEL page, which should go live pretty soon, perhaps it's time to add a PayPal Donate button as well ;) . Thanks for reminding me Stephen.

 

The demo card that Stephen is talking about, is one that he's using to test the new XEL-CF3 board with. Currently there are 7 people that either are or very soon will be testing this new design. And just so people with the original version don't feel left out, the good news is that there have been major changes to the 1088XEL U1MB BIOS coded by flashjazzcat that promises to make both versions much more reliable.

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Would you happen to have a spare XEL-CF3 PCB to sell?

 

No only did a run of 10 boards initially, and I only have one test board for myself (distributed the rest of them to the 1088XEL beta team). No worries though, because it won't be long before they become available and the design gets released. The bare boards will be going for just under $2 each if ordered from ALLPCB, although there is a minimum requirement to purchase 5 pieces.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Is there a special FDISK needed for the 1088 XEL?

 

 

The built in Loader either freezes or doesn't recognize any of my CF Cards: SanDisk 512mb or Transend 4gb, but works fine on my Side cart.

 

An already configured Transend 4gb card does boot ok though on the CF-2...

 

 

 

There should be a list on this thread (from me) of results for cards that work with the CF-][ . Your best chances are with SanDisk ~30mb/s or slower. Size does not seem to matter so long as the speed is kept at or under 30mb/s. Sub 1G cards are a bit wonkier.

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The Transend 4gb 133k cards work great on my Side carts and the Incognito 800. These same cards are also recognized with the CF-][ as they boot up ok to the C: partition.

 

I did find that one of them had a bad boot partition, but was able to fix that in windows.

 

The problem with the Loader was that the FAT32 partition didn't have any files on it and I had to Disable "Hard disk" in the PBI Bios Settings for it to work. It still freezes / glitches if I go try the "Refresh disk" in the Loader Disk Tab though...

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Please run this diagnostic tool with the cards of interest (either one at a time or in tandem if you have a dual-card adapter) plugged in:

 

idediag.xex

 

The loader should not freeze because of an IO error under any circumstances (although I don't know how old a version you're running), but there are certain cards (especially SD/CF adapters) which will sometimes cause a complete system-lock up following a hot-swap, which can't be recovered from in software at all. The diagnostic tool should demonstrate - entirely independently of the firmware revision - whether the card is basically reliable. I still recommend SanDisk cards.

 

 

 

 

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Also please note that most non-Sandisk cards don't respond well to hot plugging, and even a few Sandisk cards such as the 50MB/s ones don't like it either. Although the faster cards can be an issue in general with the present XEL-CF hardware (the unreleased XEL-CF3 is much better in this regard). For the cards that don't like to be hot plugged, a power-up with them already inserted appears to work well.

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The system is expressly (and laboriously) designed with hot-swapping in mind, and it's perfectly safe to do so (providing the system is not in the middle of IO, obviously).

 

If hot swapping is not the reason for your issues, I'd be interested to know what is (and thus interested to see the output of the IDEDIAG tool on the 4GB Transcend cards).

Edited by flashjazzcat
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The system is expressly (and laboriously) designed with hot-swapping in mind, and it's perfectly safe to do so (providing the system is not in the middle of IO, obviously).

 

If hot swapping is not the reason for your issues, I'd be interested to know what is (and thus interested to see the output of the IDEDIAG tool on the 4GB Transcend cards).

I'll run the diag tool and post the results in a couple hours after I get back from my errands...

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Just ordered 2 of the SanDisk 4GB 30MB/s cards as noted in this post , so this should resolve my issue...

 

I don' hot swap my cards, it's safer not to :)

 

Those cards are the best :thumbsup: :) . And amazingly very inexpensive. They are factory refurbished, but look and work like brand new.

 

CF card swapping is perfectly safe, and will not damage the hardware. However some cards in combination with the XEL-CF hardware are just cranky about working when hot swapped.

 

Edit: Those particular cards can be hot swapped day in and day out without issues.

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There should be a list on this thread (from me) of results for cards that work with the CF-][ . Your best chances are with SanDisk ~30mb/s or slower. Size does not seem to matter so long as the speed is kept at or under 30mb/s. Sub 1G cards are a bit wonkier.

Found your tests in this thread , the Refurb 4G SanDisk cards should be here Tuesday. Thanks :)

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Also please note that most non-Sandisk cards don't respond well to hot plugging, and even a few Sandisk cards such as the 50MB/s ones don't like it either. Although the faster cards can be an issue in general with the present XEL-CF hardware (the unreleased XEL-CF3 is much better in this regard). For the cards that don't like to be hot plugged, a power-up with them already inserted appears to work well.

Okay, got it. That's why I figured it'd be safer not to hot swap the Transend cards :)

 

The system is expressly (and laboriously) designed with hot-swapping in mind, and it's perfectly safe to do so (providing the system is not in the middle of IO, obviously).

 

If hot swapping is not the reason for your issues, I'd be interested to know what is (and thus interested to see the output of the IDEDIAG tool on the 4GB Transcend cards).

Will keep that in mind with the new cards when they arrive, thanks :)

 

Does anything stand out on my results of the Transend card?

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