1088XEL Atari ITX Motherboard DIY Builders Thread

[+DrVenkman]

The headers for the Ultimate 1MB confuse me, the BOM had me order a much larger header (x2 if i'm reading it correctly). Do we cut this down? I so whats the best way to do this?

 

https://www.digikey.co.nz/products/en?keywords=1568-1462-ND

 

Screen Shot 2018-01-10 at 1.46.09 PM.png

 

Yes, I had the same questions (a couple pages back now in the thread). Michael helpfully posted a video where he shows how he did it. So, with two of those big extra-tall 20 x 2 female headers, you cut one down to 15 x 2, and the other into a 10 x 2 and a 5 x 2 header.

 

So, what I did after watching Michael do it on video was use blue painters tape to mask off the part I want to preserve. On the first header, I taped off the first 15 spaces. I then used a sharp razor box cutter to score both sides of the 16th hole in the header. Once I'd scored both sides well, I used my sharp cutters to cut through that 16th hole right where my score marks were. So I had a nice 15 x 2 header with some plastic bits on one end, and then a scrap piece. I then sanded the plastic remains of the 16th hole smooth.

 

For the second header, I masked off the first 10 spaces, scored the 11th hole, cut and sanded to length. Then I took the remaining 9 x 2 piece (plus the scrap on one end), masked off 5 spaces to save, cut through the 6th space and sanded smooth. You end up with three pieces of the right lengths to use for the U1MB.

 

[+mytek]

Ah interesting you mentioned that, the BOM should state 40 x 2 Male SIL and included the female SIL both caught me short.

 

If you are referring to the BOM I have for download at my website, the U1MB straight male headers were left out intentionally. Primarily because it does not apply if you are using a Black Candle board (which a lot people do have, and are re-purposing for this project to save $$$), and I was also hoping that by the time people were building these things that the U1MB's that Lotharek sells would also be coming with straight headers. Unfortunately that last part hasn't happened, at least not yet.

 

 

The headers for the Ultimate 1MB confuse me, the BOM had me order a much larger header (x2 if i'm reading it correctly). Do we cut this down? I so whats the best way to do this?

 

https://www.digikey.co.nz/products/en?keywords=1568-1462-ND

 

Screen Shot 2018-01-10 at 1.46.09 PM.png

 

As DrV already posted, those need to be cut down into 3 smaller headers. If they had come in the specific sizes required, I would have certainly spec'ed them that way in the BOM, because I hate having to modify stuff. But I wasn't able to find anything that exactly fit the bill, hence the reason for the 2x20 versions that require modification before use.

[+DrVenkman]

I get both of those explanations, Michael. Im glad weve got this now-searchable thread on AA for the first bunch of non-beta testers to build out our boards and figure out stuff like this with your input, and that of those whove already built boards and MacRorie, whos both building and supplying parts for many of us.

 

Until and unless Lotharek ever gets around to selling U1MB boards with vertical headers again, it might be worth putting a note into the BOM and maybe build notes to indicate that if the board is to be modded, the requisite 50 vertical header pins arent included. Its not a huge expense (as noted, $0.66 each from Digi-Key for a row of 40!) but it might come as a small surprise to others like me who didnt notice or realize until fairly late in the build.

 

But as for the female headers, I may be in the minority here, but once I had it explained to me what to do, I found it kind of a satisfying change of pace to cut and break plastic bits to size and bend them to my will. I had the same feeling with I cut out the cross-members for the U5 and U6 POKEY machine pin sockets. Its a visceral thing to selectively destroy in order to repurpose or adapt a part. The rest of the project build has a very different, much more sedate feel to me.

[_The Doctor__]

I have no IDEA why lotherik changed those headers.. it fits so much better width wise using the old arrangement... height isn't so much the issue and where it might be I just nix the strain relief which doesn't even come on a good number of crimp connectors anyway...

[Lavalamp]

 

If you are referring to the BOM I have for download at my website, the U1MB straight male headers were left out intentionally. Primarily because it does not apply if you are using a Black Candle board (which a lot people do have, and are re-purposing for this project to save $$$), and I was also hoping that by the time people were building these things that the U1MB's that Lotharek sells would also be coming with straight headers. Unfortunately that last part hasn't happened, at least not yet.

 

 

 

As DrV already posted, those need to be cut down into 3 smaller headers. If they had come in the specific sizes required, I would have certainly spec'ed them that way in the BOM, because I hate having to modify stuff. But I wasn't able to find anything that exactly fit the bill, hence the reason for the 2x20 versions that require modification before use.

 

 

Thanks Michael, all good, makes sense.

[Lavalamp]

 

Yes, I had the same questions (a couple pages back now in the thread). Michael helpfully posted a video where he shows how he did it. So, with two of those big extra-tall 20 x 2 female headers, you cut one down to 15 x 2, and the other into a 10 x 2 and a 5 x 2 header.

 

So, what I did after watching Michael do it on video was use blue painters tape to mask off the part I want to preserve. On the first header, I taped off the first 15 spaces. I then used a sharp razor box cutter to score both sides of the 16th hole in the header. Once I'd scored both sides well, I used my sharp cutters to cut through that 16th hole right where my score marks were. So I had a nice 15 x 2 header with some plastic bits on one end, and then a scrap piece. I then sanded the plastic remains of the 16th hole smooth.

 

For the second header, I masked off the first 10 spaces, scored the 11th hole, cut and sanded to length. Then I took the remaining 9 x 2 piece (plus the scrap on one end), masked off 5 spaces to save, cut through the 6th space and sanded smooth. You end up with three pieces of the right lengths to use for the U1MB.

 

IMG_9495.JPG

 

Fantastic! Thanks so much for this, I have been through this forum but didn't spot this, Ill review it again!, Cheers!

[+mytek]

Until and unless Lotharek ever gets around to selling U1MB boards with vertical headers again, it might be worth putting a note into the BOM and maybe build notes to indicate that if the board is to be modded, the requisite 50 vertical header pins arent included. Its not a huge expense (as noted, $0.66 each from Digi-Key for a row of 40!) but it might come as a small surprise to others like me who didnt notice or realize until fairly late in the build.

 

I'm hoping that this thread is being followed by all the prospective builders, so perhaps this will serve as that note that you referred to .

[+Firedawg]

 

 

Looks nice!

 

UAVs arrived today. Video connectors were shipped yesterday from Israel. Hopefully here soon. As soon as they arrive, I will send them both out to kits purchasers.

Sophia boards . . . unknown. Replacement batch being sent in a few days.

 

Mac, I believed I used the same ebay vendor from Israel for the video connectors and it took approximately 14 days from the ship date to arrive.

 

Mike

[+MacRorie]

Mac, I believed I used the same ebay vendor from Israel for the video connectors and it took approximately 14 days from the ship date to arrive.

 

Mike

I am dealing with him directly and I paid extra for expedited shipping/postage. I was quoted 3 business days. Of course, I am still waiting on a package from November from Eastern Europe so . . . .

[+mytek]

I am dealing with him directly and I paid extra for expedited shipping/postage. I was quoted 3 business days. Of course, I am still waiting on a package from November from Eastern Europe so . . . .

 

I know when I started this project, Arihav Electronics (my source) had 1200 of these in stock. Now their website shows that down to 1068. Still a considerable amount for the likely interest there will be for the 1088XEL. However unless another source was found, I hope that no one else comes along and buys up all the stock for some other application. In my search for just the right connector, I did come across other options, such as one that had an orange RCA jack, but yellow really is the correct color for composite video output.

 

[+Firedawg]

 

I know when I started this project, Arihav Electronics (my source) had 1200 of these in stock. Now their website shows that down to 1068. Still a considerable amount for the likely interest there will be for the 1088XEL. However unless another source was found, I hope that no one else comes along and buys up all the stock for some other application. In my search for just the right connector, I did come across other options, such as one that had an orange RCA jack, but yellow really is the correct color for composite video output.

 

 

Yeah, they are the same supplier on eBay. Arihav is about the only supplier I could find with the RCA/S-Video connectors. I probably should have purchased a few more.

[+MacRorie]

 

I know when I started this project, Arihav Electronics (my source) had 1200 of these in stock. Now their website shows that down to 1068. Still a considerable amount for the likely interest there will be for the 1088XEL. However unless another source was found, I hope that no one else comes along and buys up all the stock for some other application. In my search for just the right connector, I did come across other options, such as one that had an orange RCA jack, but yellow really is the correct color for composite video output.

 

2PJ-AV18-001.png

 

 

I bought 100, so there's that. The orange version would require a board redesign, it is not pin identical.

[+mytek]

 

Yeah, they are the same supplier on eBay. Arihav is about the only supplier I could find with the RCA/S-Video connectors. I probably should have purchased a few more.

 

Well with over 1000 pieces in stock let's hope that we are the main if not only people buying these.

 

 

 

 

I bought 100, so there's that. The orange version would require a board redesign, it is not pin identical.

 

I've purchased at least 21 of these myself, and there are obviously others buying for their independent 1088XEL builds. Considering that the minimum purchase is 3 pieces, and adding your 100 I think the 1088XEL business accounts for that drop in stock.

 

Note: I'm not hoarding, but had to supply BETA testers with the hard to get parts.

[+orpheuswaking]

I'm thinking about sourcing 2-4 of each of the harder to find components for myself in case I build out my spare boards (Primarily I am using them to display at shows etc - but one day I am sure I'll build them)

 

Just looking at the BOM I'm wondering which items are a must buy

[+mytek]

I'm thinking about sourcing 2-4 of each of the harder to find components for myself in case I build out my spare boards (Primarily I am using them to display at shows etc - but one day I am sure I'll build them)

 

Just looking at the BOM I'm wondering which items are a must buy

 

Other than the SIO connector, I would say that these stacked video jacks that we've been talking about would be high on that list, as well as the 64x8 SRAM chip. As for the stacked PS/2 Mini-DIN's those are still relatively easy to get and multi-sourced. Actually the parts that I fear will become scarce, if not just plain ridiculously priced are the Atari VSLI chips. Pokey is already outrageous at $20 a pop.

[+mytek]

So getting back to the essence of building a 1088XEL. The RGB VSYNC Mod that was shown here, should be incorporated as standard on all boards that you intend to drive a monitor out of the 1088XEL's DIN-13 connector. Luckily it's a very simple fix, and shouldn't take more than about a minute or two to implement. I updated both the Schematic and the BOM to reflect this change (get the updated copies on my website).

 

Here is the end result as seen on a GoldStar SC1224 ST RGB monitor. Nice to see an actual Atari branded monitor on an A8 system . And it'll work in NTSC or PAL mode (currently shown in PAL).

 

 

This should also work with other RGB monitors besides the Atari ones, although I'm still unsure if the ST to SCART adapter cables will fly, due to them counting on some signals that quite frankly are very different from what is available from the 1088XEL with either a Sophia or VBXE upgrade board. However i have one on the way which I'll be testing out real soon.

 

Edit: now that I have this GoldStar working on my system, i find that i prefer it over the JVC. For one it is a far sexier looking case, and it actually required way less adjustment to get things lined up (could have probably left it set for an ST, so with a switch box you could share this monitor with both systems).

 

- Michael

[+Firedawg]

 

Other than the SIO connector, I would say that these stacked video jacks that we've been talking about would be high on that list, as well as the 64x8 SRAM chip. As for the stacked PS/2 Mini-DIN's those are still relatively easy to get and multi-sourced. Actually the parts that I fear will become scarce, if not just plain ridiculously priced are the Atari VSLI chips. Pokey is already outrageous at $20 a pop.

 

@orpheuswaking - I have several extra stacked PS/2 Mini-Dins, 14-pos Card Edge Connectors, and 1 spare SIO connector. If you are interested. At cost plus shipping is my terms. If anyone else is in need of these items let me know with a PM. Orpheuswaking has first dibs on the SIO connector the next interested individual gets it.

 

Mike

[+DrVenkman]

Exciting times ... I used the JOY2PIC-Stik I got from Firedawg to program the three PIC chips for my build tonight. Thanks to both him and Michael for the incredibly easy-to-use hardware tool and the collection of .ATRs to do the job.

 

Then once I did that, I decided to go ahead and install them and the rest of the ICs. Of course I'm still waiting on the UAV, the aforementioned video jack that Michael and Mac were discussing earlier, and some more header pins (plus the XEL-CF interface I'll be building), but it's incredibly gratifying to see it all start to really come together.

 

 

 

This is a lovely photo; stereo POKEY in da' house!

 

 

 

[+mytek]

Beautiful pictures

 

Now it's really starting to look like a complete system .

[+Firedawg]

DrV that board is looking great. Awesome work.

[+LarryL]

Top cover and back plate arrived

 

Now my system gets closer to be complete :-)

[+DrVenkman]

Those are SWEEEEEET! This is how I want my system to end up looking.

[+LarryL]

Those are SWEEEEEET! This is how I want my system to end up looking.

Yeah, looks quite nice

But I still have a way to go:

- mouse select board

- LED board for top cover

- XEL CF

- make my SC1425 work with the SOPHIA

 

But hey, I am not in a hurry

[+mytek]

LarryL that's looking real good .

 

Any problems with getting any of the panels to fit? I had to make an adjustment on the top panel after my first attempt because it was a bit too big and required some filing (that did get integrated into yours). I'm also working on an idea for incorporating screw holes in the perimeter of the rear panel to hold it in place, instead of gluing it, and I've adjusted the width and height slightly as well for a better fit without gaps. There is a Front Panel order in play to check this out which I should receive next week. I'll be reissuing new manufacturer's files in a couple weeks based on some of these changes.

 

BTW, you can use a 6-32 x 3/8-1/2" pan head screw in the rear panel to give the video jacks a bit more support (it'll self thread into the plastic). Don't tighten beyond what is needed, since there is a small gap between the rear panel and the jack.

 

For those that want that cool Atari logo here is the source: https://www.etsy.com/listing/240419557/atari-label-aufkleber-sticker-badge-logo?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=atari&ref=sr_gallery-1-7

[+LarryL]

LarryL that's looking real good .

 

Any problems with getting any of the panels to fit? I had to make an adjustment on the top panel after my first attempt because it was a bit too big and required some filing (that did get integrated into yours). I'm also working on an idea for incorporating screw holes in the perimeter of the rear panel to hold it in place, instead of gluing it, and I've adjusted the width and height slightly as well for a better fit without gaps. There is a Front Panel order in play to check this out which I should receive next week. I'll be reissuing new manufacturer's files in a couple weeks based on some of these changes.

 

BTW, you can use a 6-32 x 3/8-1/2" pan head screw in the rear panel to give the video jacks a bit more support (it'll self thread into the plastic). Don't tighten beyond what is needed, since there is a small gap between the rear panel and the jack.

 

For those that want that cool Atari logo here is the source: https://www.etsy.com/listing/240419557/atari-label-aufkleber-sticker-badge-logo?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=atari&ref=sr_gallery-1-7

Hi Michael,

 

I did not have a very close look, since I put it together quite quickly yesterday morning before driving to office - was so curious :-)

But it was fitting quite well.

The back plate sits tight by itself, so I did not need any glue.

I have seen the hole for the screw - will do this some time...

The top cover fits very well - I only had to losen the screws of the cartridge slot a bit so that the cover could fit.

The only issue I realized is, that the top cover might be thicker as needed.

 

Cheers

Michael