chevymad Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 I added solder to all the pins right from the start. After that they pulled pretty easily. In fact some almost fell out. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_q_atari Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 I added solder to all the pins right from the start. After that they pulled pretty easily. In fact some almost fell out. Yes I did the same thing and the pins come out easily. Now clearing the holes of solder... THAT is killing me... and maybe the board, I dunno. going to resume again tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_q_atari Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 U1MB solder holes are cleared and new headers installed. I used a cheap solder sucker plunger device like in the video earlier in the thread and that worked pressed up hard against the board with the soldering iron on the other size to melt the solder. Speaking of solder, I've noticed while building my board that I have lots of tiny specks of what may be rosin residue on the board. Perhaps my old spool of Radio Shack solder is "dirty"? My best guess is when I am soldering and the solder melts, the rosin boils and splatters in a fine mist across the board. Is this a normal or common occurrence? If so will a "clean" solder have less of this behavior? Any advice on if I should clean the board or how to clean it? I have the alcohol but the cotton strands from cotton swabs or whatever would get caught on all the soldered leads on the back side of the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevymad Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Not sure if it's the best way, but I used an old tooth brush. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Speaking of solder, I've noticed while building my board that I have lots of tiny specks of what may be rosin residue on the board. Perhaps my old spool of Radio Shack solder is "dirty"? My best guess is when I am soldering and the solder melts, the rosin boils and splatters in a fine mist across the board. Is this a normal or common occurrence? If so will a "clean" solder have less of this behavior? Any advice on if I should clean the board or how to clean it? I have the alcohol but the cotton strands from cotton swabs or whatever would get caught on all the soldered leads on the back side of the board. So long as it’s no-clean/non-corrosive flux, it won’t hurt anything. But I also use an old nylon toothbrush + iso alcohol to clean up residue, then wipe up any excess with a clean, no lint cloth. Works great and won’t harm the board or any of the components. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Spaced Cowboy Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Every now and then I'm getting interference on the screen *after* the BIOS boot - for some reason that's always ok. Once the BIOS gives way to the Atari OS though, I see: Anyone any ideas ? I looked at the Sophia connections and they all seem to be ok. Again, it's only intermittent - maybe once every 5-8 times I plug in the power. I'm going to take another DVI cable home with me to try and rule that out later on, but thought I'd ask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Can you connect a composite or S-video cable through the UAV to see if it's system RAM noise, not an artifact of your SOPHIA installation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Spaced Cowboy Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Can you connect a composite or S-video cable through the UAV to see if it's system RAM noise, not an artifact of your SOPHIA installation? I'm not sure if I've got a composite/s-video monitor any more - there may be one in the attic I'll have a look when I get home, but that's a good idea... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Every now and then I'm getting interference on the screen *after* the BIOS boot - for some reason that's always ok. Once the BIOS gives way to the Atari OS though, I see: Anyone any ideas ? I looked at the Sophia connections and they all seem to be ok. Again, it's only intermittent - maybe once every 5-8 times I plug in the power. I'm going to take another DVI cable home with me to try and rule that out later on, but thought I'd ask Try this: Remove the DVI connector from the case. If you still have static with the connector not attached to the case, its cable-related. If it clears up, then the ground plane on the connector is picking up noise through the case. Try a piece of electrical tape at the very edge of the board on the connector (the edge that meets the case) and try again. I have talked to Simius on this and he did not foresee them connected to cases, so his suggestion is to trim/cut the board, sometimes this results in the ground plane being exposed enough to connect to the case making it an antenna for the cable. Also, you might want to reduce the other electrical components plugged into the same outlet/line as the 1088XEl as I have had reports that this also causes the noise to increase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Spaced Cowboy Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Thanks MacRorie, will do Simon [edit] That didn't really help. The first two times after I plugged it all back together after applying the tape to the edge I got the same as above, and then the third time it was fine. It's kind of odd that it's always ok for the BIOS boot-screen, but when we switch into BASIC/DOS the distortion sometimes kicks in... [edit2] Moving to a cable with a larger choke on each end seems to have helped. I've just plugged/unplugged a half-dozen times and got a good result every time. I'll keep an eye on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Firedawg Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 Every now and then I'm getting interference on the screen *after* the BIOS boot - for some reason that's always ok. Once the BIOS gives way to the Atari OS though, I see: Anyone any ideas ? I looked at the Sophia connections and they all seem to be ok. Again, it's only intermittent - maybe once every 5-8 times I plug in the power. I'm going to take another DVI cable home with me to try and rule that out later on, but thought I'd ask I had the very same issue which I posted in the Sophia thread. The issue was due to a bad DVI cable, which was swapped with another cable and the poor screen output was gone. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 I had the very same issue which I posted in the Sophia thread. The issue was due to a bad DVI cable, which was swapped with another cable and the poor screen output was gone. Mike Yeah, I think a cable with dual ferrite cores is the way to go with those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Spaced Cowboy Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 Yeah, I think a cable with dual ferrite cores is the way to go with those. My original cable had bumps on the ends, which I assume were ferrite cores, but they were pretty small. The cable that worked a lot better had much *larger* bumps Larger bumps for the win. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imacav8r Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Hello all, I purchased a full kit from MacRorie, but have now decided not to build it. It is a full bill of material kit with Relan H80 engraved case, Sophia rev-C, Joy2PIC. Also got an Uno cart with it. My bill was almost $900. I have also purchased 2x CF to IDE adapters, a Sandisk CF card, 2x cart tunnel prints in white. I would sell the entire lot for $750. Let me know if there is any interest. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Well now if only I had $750 lying around 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_q_atari Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Building this thing definitely cost more than I expected... But I powered up last night for the first time and I got a pulse! Or rather some graphical menu displayed on my monitor through s-video. Perhaps I didn't fry my U1MB with heat, and all my soldering to a bare UAV I had on hand to turn it into a 1088XEL UAV was successful! (still need to test Sophia DVI later). I didn't have any more time last night other than to just power it up, but I am definitely excited all that time and money was not wasted! Plus my wife is pretty impressed with my results. Since I am a total newbie figuring this out (with everyone's help of course) for the first time, I will probably write up a detailed "bring up" document for the 1088XEL. Undoubtedly would be a big help to the lazy newbie, though I don't know if any newbie building this thing from scratch themselves could actually be considered lazy 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Building this thing definitely cost more than I expected... But I powered up last night for the first time and I got a pulse! Or rather some graphical menu displayed on my monitor through s-video. Perhaps I didn't fry my U1MB with heat, and all my soldering to a bare UAV I had on hand to turn it into a 1088XEL UAV was successful! (still need to test Sophia DVI later). I didn't have any more time last night other than to just power it up, but I am definitely excited all that time and money was not wasted! Plus my wife is pretty impressed with my results. Since I am a total newbie figuring this out (with everyone's help of course) for the first time, I will probably write up a detailed "bring up" document for the 1088XEL. Undoubtedly would be a big help to the lazy newbie, though I don't know if any newbie building this thing from scratch themselves could actually be considered lazy I am currently in the process of writing a user's manual for it. There are a lot of things that are helpful to know before building it that you really only figure out after building it. Plus, there are soooo many cool features on it! Speaking of the Sophia rev. C: I have discovered a box that will allow you to hook sound and video up through the same HDMI connection! They are sitting in front of me begging to be tested, but I have to do some work to pay the bills. Will let people know the results and, if successful, pricing or alternative purchase locations. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Spaced Cowboy Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Just a post to give a slightly different option than the "atariage-standard" H60/H80 cases that everyone is using. Given that I'm designing an expansion bus for 8-bit computers, having everything in-case was a priority for me. That meant a slightly different approach. Here's the end-result: ... and here's what it looks like, first from above, and then from behind: In the from-above picture, you can see the internal-SIO expansion PCB attached to the inside-left-back of the case, and in the rear shot, you can see the first PCI slot bracket I've ever installed for an Atari, which is where the two joystick ports come out. The slot to the right of the joystick ports I'm hoping to make into a cartridge port. The gaping hole towards the top of the back-panel is of course going to be where the expansion slots will be... Cheers Simon. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 That case looks BEEFY !!! But it needs some lights to really complete it. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Spaced Cowboy Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 If only you knew.... I was sorely tempted to go for the next one up, which provides a 5.25" bay at the front. I had plans for that 5.25" bay that included an OLED display... But that case is also a lot deeper, so you can fit full-length PCIe cards in, and on the balance of things I thought the relatively compact model was better [sigh]. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Firedawg Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Space, it looks like you could stack several 1088XEL in that case! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Spaced Cowboy Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Space, it looks like you could stack several 1088XEL in that case! Pi3Stacked.JPG It's about 3x the height of the 1088XEL, but that's the price you pay for expansion slots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Space, it looks like you could stack several 1088XEL in that case! Pi3Stacked.JPG Does anyone have a parallel OS handy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Hey everyone. I'm down to my last 12 or so UAV Rev D boards and I'm going to take a short break to design Rev E, which will hopefully be the final revision. Basically I want to add a couple features and make it easier to assemble and ship in a timely fashion (as I don't always have a free day to be hunched over my workbench). If you anticipate needing a UAV board soon, I wanted to give you the heads up since it will probably be a few months before the next one is done and then another 30 days or so to manufacture them. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Bryan I hope you are planning to be around and making these for a while to come . So in a nutshell, what does RevE bring with it that RevD doesn't? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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