Lavalamp Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 I see you already discovered the 5x5 pin RGB-THRU header which is shown connected to the Sophia RGB board here. And yes that routes the RGB signals over to the DIN-13 connector. This works with the standard Sophia RGB board, and just requires an IDC10 connector crimped onto Sophia's video out cable. Fantastic news thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Moving right along! Loosely fitting the new headers to the U1MB, plugging in the female headers I made on Saturday, and then soldering it all together went perfectly. The U1MB fits snugly when seated, but still readily removable if necessary. I also got started on the rest of the headers and connectors on the board. Hopefully MacRorie will get the rest of the UAVs he's waiting on, along with the new video jacks. The RGB jack is nice to have but useless for me and my planned near-term usage (may add a Sophia down the line but probably not). 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Moving right along! Loosely fitting the new headers to the U1MB, plugging in the female headers I made on Saturday, and then soldering it all together went perfectly. The U1MB fits snugly when seated, but still readily removable if necessary. I also got started on the rest of the headers and connectors on the board. Hopefully MacRorie will get the rest of the UAVs he's waiting on, along with the new video jacks. The RGB jack is nice to have but useless for me and my planned near-term usage (may add a Sophia down the line but probably not). IMG_9494.JPG IMG_9499.JPG Looks nice! UAVs arrived today. Video connectors were shipped yesterday from Israel. Hopefully here soon. As soon as they arrive, I will send them both out to kits purchasers. Sophia boards . . . unknown. Replacement batch being sent in a few days. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Looks nice! UAVs arrived today. Video connectors were shipped yesterday from Israel. Hopefully here soon. As soon as they arrive, I will send them both out to kits purchasers. Great news, thanks! As I was installing headers and jacks tonight, I realized your annotated copy of the BOM included in my box indicated that the 2-pin header jacks for 5V ACC Power (J22, 23, 24) were to be shipped later. Did those every arrive? No biggie of course - still got plenty to do before I can get to the point of testing, plus the inevitable troubleshooting ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Great news, thanks! As I was installing headers and jacks tonight, I realized your annotated copy of the BOM included in my box indicated that the 2-pin header jacks for 5V ACC Power (J22, 23, 24) were to be shipped later. Did those every arrive? No biggie of course - still got plenty to do before I can get to the point of testing, plus the inevitable troubleshooting ... Yes, they will ship with the other items. I have 500 of them, so no worries. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lavalamp Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Moving right along! Loosely fitting the new headers to the U1MB, plugging in the female headers I made on Saturday, and then soldering it all together went perfectly. The U1MB fits snugly when seated, but still readily removable if necessary. I also got started on the rest of the headers and connectors on the board. Hopefully MacRorie will get the rest of the UAVs he's waiting on, along with the new video jacks. The RGB jack is nice to have but useless for me and my planned near-term usage (may add a Sophia down the line but probably not). IMG_9494.JPG IMG_9499.JPG Nice! Not too keen to show you guys my progress now that I see there's use of the correctly spaced capacitors (not a dig at you Mike ) I soldered my resistor network DIPs, not in sockets like yours, wondering why you would? Do they fail? I'm building a PAL version (for NZ) Thanks to your photo I now notice I should have added 952-2538-ND to my Digi-Key order for position X2 so the CO16112 could be easily pulled and replaced with the NTSC crystal. It wasn't in the part number column in the BOM Heres to seeing it fire up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Nice! Not too keen to show you guys my progress now that I see there's use of the correctly spaced capacitors (not a dig at you Mike ) I soldered my resistor network DIPs, not in sockets like yours, wondering why you would? Do they fail? I'm building a PAL version (for NZ) Thanks to your photo I now notice I should have added 952-2538-ND to my Digi-Key order for position X2 so the CO16112 could be easily pulled and replaced with the NTSC crystal. It wasn't in the part number column in the BOM Heres to seeing it fire up! I am not sure his RNs are socketed. They do not look like it. Heck, you can install the RN DIPs (**NOT** the SIPs) in backward and most will still function. X2 is never removed. It doesn't matter if it is present with a PAL or an NTSC option. It just sits there until needed. Only X1 needs to be socketed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Nice! Not too keen to show you guys my progress now that I see there's use of the correctly spaced capacitors (not a dig at you Mike [emoji6] ) I soldered my resistor network DIPs, not in sockets like yours, wondering why you would? Do they fail? I'm building a PAL version (for NZ) Thanks to your photo I now notice I should have added 952-2538-ND to my Digi-Key order for position X2 so the CO16112 could be easily pulled and replaced with the NTSC crystal. It wasn't in the part number column in the BOM Heres to seeing it fire up! Well, my 0.1 uF capacitors are all the "wrong" lead-spacing as accidentally spec'd on the BOM when MacRorie put the kits together. No worries - they can fit if you bend the leads yourself or just work them carefully into the board and lean them over a bit if necessary. [emoji4] My DIP resistor networks aren't socketed either. They're soldered to the board. As for crystals, and bear in mind I am *NOT* an expert (!!!), there's an NTSC/PAL jumper (J21) on the board. If you install the PAL colorburst crystal at X2, you can remove the socketed X1 crystal and replace it with the opposite number, then move the NTSC/PAL jumper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 my 0.1 uF resistors? my 0.1 uF capacitors! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 As for crystals, and bear in mind I am *NOT* an expert (!!!), there's an NTSC/PAL jumper (J21) on the board. If you install the PAL colorburst crystal at X2, you can remove the socketed X1 crystal and replace it with the opposite number, then move the NTSC/PAL jumper. This is exactly correct. For an NTSC setup, X2 is unnecessary, but does no harm being installed. For a PAL setup, X2 is required and permanent. X1 changes and the jumper at J21 changes as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 my 0.1 uF resistors? my 0.1 uF capacitors! Typos. It was a long day. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 I mkae typios alt time . Now for a question... Firedawg - it just occurred to me that I don't recall what the exact fix was for your original failed power-up attempts. Was this explained and I missed it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Firedawg Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 I mkae typios alt time . Now for a question... Firedawg - it just occurred to me that I don't recall what the exact fix was for your original failed power-up attempts. Was this explained and I missed it? It had to be a bad solder joint(s) that was affecting the video output. So, for those completing their boards assure good solder flow to the pads. I also changed out the stacked RCA + S-video jack, which probably was not the cause. Michael your assistance basically allowed me to discover that the board was producing the right voltage to key components, and the components in play were functioning fine, so the deduction of that led me to focus on the solder joints. After a good once over with the iron and solder voilà video put success. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Firedawg Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 Took some time yesterday to hook up some of Dropcheck devices, which by the way worked great, and played around a bit with my DB9 joystick connections. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 It had to be a bad solder joint(s) that was affecting the video output. So, for those completing their boards assure good solder flow to the pads. I also changed out the stacked RCA + S-video jack, which probably was not the cause. Michael your assistance basically allowed me to discover that the board was producing the right voltage to key components, and the components in play were functioning fine, so the deduction of that lead me to focus on the solder joints. After a good once over with the iron and solder voilà video put success. Aww ok I was wondering about that, since it seemed like it magically started to work for you after scoping signals. Thanks for the explanation Took some time yesterday to hook up some of Dropcheck devices, which by the way worked great, and played around a bit with my DB9 joystick connections. 1088xelCartExt.jpg 1088xelSDdrive.jpg Pac-manScrn.jpg Yep I got one of those buffered cartridge extenders she makes. And I gotta say that is going to be one of the most useful accessories for the 1088XEL besides the XEL-CF . And it's very well made. - Michael 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lavalamp Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Waiting on components from all round the world to progress any further, its my first full size PCB project so be kind I was planning on building the JOY2PIC first to get into it, but EasyEDA were way faster, 3 days, than OSHPark which 10 days later is still a no show. EasyEDA were very good to deal with when I noticed their site hadn't picked up the Gerbers file correctly. OSH seem very expensive too. I've convinced my mate to build one, but asked him to hold off until I go through the process, already found many gotchyas. Whatever the outcome still enjoying it. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lavalamp Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 (edited) Took some time yesterday to hook up some of Dropcheck devices, which by the way worked great, and played around a bit with my DB9 joystick connections. 1088xelCartExt.jpg 1088xelSDdrive.jpg Pac-manScrn.jpg I like the idea of extending the cartridge port out like that, so you can mount it anywhere, nice, is the PCB/BOM available for this mod? Is that the original A8 tunnel? I have one of those available. Edited January 9, 2018 by Lavalamp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Firedawg Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 I like the idea of extending the cartridge port out like that, so you can mount it anywhere, nice, is the PCB/BOM available for this mod? Is that the original A8 tunnel? I have one of those available. Dropcheck sells this as a bare board XL/XE/1088XEL Cart Extension Bundle with a BOM to build it out. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Waiting on components from all round the world to progress any further, its my first full size PCB project so be kind I was planning on building the JOY2PIC first to get into it, but EasyEDA were way faster, 3 days, than OSHPark which 10 days later is still a no show. EasyEDA were very good to deal with when I noticed their site hadn't picked up the Gerbers file correctly. OSH seem very expensive too. I've convinced my mate to build one, but asked him to hold off until I go through the process, already found many gotchyas. Whatever the outcome still enjoying it. 1088XEL.jpg Yep when it comes to having a 4-layer board of this size made, EasyEDA is the best I've found price, quality, and shipping time. ALLPCB is great at 2-layer and smaller boards (and the Free DHL shipping is fantastic), but they can't compete with EasyEDA on the 1088XEL board even when factoring in the free shipping. OSHpark is only good for very small 2-layer boards, and even then ALLPCB will beat them every time. But their shared project aspect really makes setting up BUY buttons on a website very easy. However if you don't mind doing a little bit more work (and it's not much) I would use ALLPCB instead of OSHpark, because you'll get a hell of a good discount on the smaller boards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Okay guys and gals, so here's where I stand right now. After installing my Sparkfun breakout board, I appear to be running short of male SIL header pins, almost as if I am missing maybe an entire strip of them. I still have a number of important jumper and header blocks to install, yet I've only got 12 pins left. That can't be right. So ... what have I done wrong? Or did I lose a third strip of header pins? My kit came with two strips of 40 - I used 50 of them for the U1MB headers, and 18 of them for the Sparkfun headers; that's 68 pins. I have 12 left, out of the 80. But with all the jumpers left to install, 12 doesn't seem nearly enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Okay guys and gals, so here's where I stand right now. After installing my Sparkfun breakout board, I appear to be running short of male SIL header pins, almost as if I am missing maybe an entire strip of them. I still have a number of important jumper and header blocks to install, yet I've only got 12 pins left. That can't be right. So ... what have I done wrong? Or did I lose a third strip of header pins? My kit came with two strips of 40 - I used 50 of them for the U1MB headers, and 18 of them for the Sparkfun headers; that's 68 pins. I have 12 left, out of the 80. But with all the jumpers left to install, 12 doesn't seem nearly enough. IMG_9504.JPG The BOM does not specify headers for the Ultimate 1M board, so they were not included. Did not even think of them since I saw them as part of the U1M process. I will throw two more into the envelope I send you with make up stuff. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 The BOM does not specify headers for the Ultimate 1M board, so they were not included. Did not even think of them since I saw them as part of the U1M process. I will throw two more into the envelope I send you with make up stuff. Thanks much! For some reason when I eyeballed everything before I started the kit, I was sure I had plenty of pins. Hah! Well, they’re $0.66 each at Digi-Key. I’ll slip an extra couple bucks your way next time I order stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dropcheck Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Dropcheck sells this as a bare board XL/XE/1088XEL Cart Extension Bundle with a BOM to build it out. Mike I also sell both completely assembled (although without the original A8 cartridge guide) on my website as well. Of course it is more expensive, but it comes fully tested and verified working. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lavalamp Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Okay guys and gals, so here's where I stand right now. After installing my Sparkfun breakout board, I appear to be running short of male SIL header pins, almost as if I am missing maybe an entire strip of them. I still have a number of important jumper and header blocks to install, yet I've only got 12 pins left. That can't be right. So ... what have I done wrong? Or did I lose a third strip of header pins? My kit came with two strips of 40 - I used 50 of them for the U1MB headers, and 18 of them for the Sparkfun headers; that's 68 pins. I have 12 left, out of the 80. But with all the jumpers left to install, 12 doesn't seem nearly enough. IMG_9504.JPG Ah interesting you mentioned that, the BOM should state 40 x 2 Male SIL and included the female SIL both caught me short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lavalamp Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 (edited) The headers for the Ultimate 1MB confuse me, the BOM had me order a much larger header (x2 if i'm reading it correctly). Do we cut this down? I so whats the best way to do this? https://www.digikey.co.nz/products/en?keywords=1568-1462-ND Edited January 10, 2018 by Lavalamp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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