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2600 Hardware issue: Won't power on


Starstormer

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Hi, I have a 6 switch Atari 2600, NTSC model that's mostly been sitting on the shelf. I'd use it periodically though had some trouble as the power jack was loose, and it wouldn't power on unless the AC adapter was plugged in at a specific angle (have had a similar problem with my genesis model 2). Eventually however, I got to a point where it wouldn't power on at all. I did clean the contacts to the RF cable to eliminate the possibility that it was a video connection problem.

 

I suspect the issue is that the jack is loose, and either needs to be replaced or resoddered. I had been using a 12 volt AC adapter not realizing the system was meant to have a 9 volt adapter. Not sure if a 3 volt difference would have caused a problem.

 

Google hasn't been particularly helpful and I'm almost always redirected to the forums whenever I search an Atari problem. Not sure if this is a common problem, or if there's any recommendations beyond just replacing the power jack.

Edited by Starstormer
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Since you already had issues with the jack making connection I would go ahead and get that fixed first, then go from there if it doesn't fix it. If the jack wasn't the only problem, the other problem will be a lot easier to troubleshoot without having to worry about wiggling the power plug to get a connection.

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PS

 

Don't use a 12V supply. Use a 9V supply. These are unregulated supplies and will output a higher voltage until loaded. So while the unit is switched off you may be supplying the main cap which is a 2200uF/16V cap with a higher voltage than it is rated for, causing it to fail quicker.

 

EDIT:

 

I meant to say these are mostly unregulated supplies. Some are regulated and yours may well in fact be but I wanted to advise you just in case.

Edited by SignGuy81
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PS

 

Don't use a 12V supply. Use a 9V supply. These are unregulated supplies and will output a higher voltage until loaded. So while the unit is switched off you may be supplying the main cap which is a 2200uF/16V cap with a higher voltage than it is rated for, causing it to fail quicker.

 

I will use a 9V from here on out to avoid any damage to the system. The adapter did fit the jack just fine and powered on the console, hence why I thought the 12v was fine, though now I know better. The jack itself noticeably wiggles as if it's loose from the motherboard. I was able to confirm this when opening the console, the jack itself was cracked on the plastic part, and is loose on the motherboard. I'll try resoddering it and using the correct 9 volt adapter to see if that makes a difference. Thanks for the help and the link to the right adapter.

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I will use a 9V from here on out to avoid any damage to the system. The adapter did fit the jack just fine and powered on the console, hence why I thought the 12v was fine, though now I know better. The jack itself noticeably wiggles as if it's loose from the motherboard. I was able to confirm this when opening the console, the jack itself was cracked on the plastic part, and is loose on the motherboard. I'll try resoddering it and using the correct 9 volt adapter to see if that makes a difference. Thanks for the help and the link to the right adapter.

 

No prob. I misunderstood what you said by loose jack so nanochess above had the right answer for you but yeah it needs to be resoldered, then the correct adapter.

 

PS

 

You may also want to find another jack or fix the plastic with some epoxy while you have it all apart to solder.

Edited by SignGuy81
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its a common right angle 2 pole 3.5mm phono jack which you can get from many places, problem is, google ebay and most big search engines have no concept that there is a jack (the female part) and a plug (the male part) so when you search you just get endless garbage dongles and cords

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For the fairly cheap price, just get a refresh kit from Console5. That way you can replace the voltage regulator with a better one, replace a few caps likely to be wearing out anyway and get a new power jack in the process. That is pretty much what I do with any 2600s that come to me these days. Doesn't take that long to do it all and I just think of it as a preventive maintenance measure at this point.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for all the suggestions, the internals were fine, and predictably the issue was the jack. Funny enough I got a working 4 switch model from a friend in a box of atari supplies. At this point I might be tempted to replace a few internals as preventative maintenance and sell one of the two atari's at this point. As far as I know, there isn't any real difference between the 4 and 6 switch versions, beyond the fact that the difficulty switches are on the back of the 4 switch version.

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