I recently got a pair of CX10 joysticks and I thought I would share some photos. I initially took a set of photos comparing them to a CX40 joystick. Then later I took them apart and took several photos of it disassembled. I posted many of these photos to the AtariAge FB group, but I figured this forum is a more permanent place for these photos. If you are curious about what CX10's look like inside, read on.
CX40 on left, CX10's on the right. From this shot, you can observe a few subtle differences. I'll address them in more detail below.
Here is a shot of the undersides. Again, CX40 on left, CX10's on the right. The keen eye will observe the screw holes are not as deep on the CX10's. You may also notice that both my CX10's are missing two screws each, which indicates somebody has probably had these apart before.
Here is a pretty good view of where the Atari logo "hex disc" would go. Right on top of the shaft, there is an indentation for it. Unfortunately, the discs are missing on mine.
Top of the CX10. Notice the CX10 does not say "TOP". Also notice the paint color is more yellow on the CX10.
Notice the CX10 has no ring holding down the rubber boot. At first I thought it was missing on mine, but now I believe it was not designed as part of this joystick.
The fire button has more travel on the CX10.
The CX10 has a skinnier plug.
First look inside the controller.
This shot allows a look inside the mechanism to see how the joystick works.
Here is the PCB. Notice the "Innovative Leisure" slogan under the Atari logo. The board number reads "C010712 REV 5"
Removing two screws allowed me to detach the PCB from the top half. Notice each direction on the joystick and the fire button gets a spring. There is an intermediate plastic piece that holds the springs in place and presses down on the "dome" contacts on the top of the PCB when the joystick is moved.
Joystick shaft removed from inside the rubber boot. It just slips right out. Four springs are attached to the shaft.
Closeup shot of the top half of the PCB. Notice on mine, the "dome" contacts are pretty worn out and appear to be somewhat crushed. I may need to replace those.
The CX10 in these photos did not work when I did my first tests. I took it apart to clean it and photograph it. These photos are more or less considered "before" photos. I hope to post more after the joystick is repaired, cleaned, and is functioning. My conclusion about the CX10 joystick is that is feels a bit looser than the CX40. The joystick seems to have more movement and is easier to push in the directions. The fire buttons definitely has more travel to it. I am curious how it feels in actual gameplay. The design seems pretty robust with the exception of the "dome" contacts on the PCB.
Lastly, if anybody has a source for parts or any tips on restoring these joysticks, post them here. I'd love to hear it.