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Designed a TV Stand/Console holder for this Sony Trinitron WEGA 40" beast


icemanxp300

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So if you don't follow the thrift finds, last Friday I scored a KV-40XBR800. It did not come with a stand. Since this this TV weighs a massive 304lbs I need a heavy duty stand.

 

So I have designed a layout which will require (4) 4'x8' sheets of 3/4 wood. I am thinking of going this nice sanded pine. A few years ago I made a TV stand out of the expensive Oak plywood but that is harder to cut and cost 1.5x as much and at 4 sheets that would be an extra $80 or so. However I may just pop out the extra $80 because having a hardwood might be better for this application.

 

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/23-32-CAT-PS1-09-Radiata-Pine-Sanded-Plywood-Application-as-4-x-8/3551942

 

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-SkyPly-3-4-in-HPVA-Oak-Plywood-Application-As-4-x-8/1000083307

 

I may plop down the extra $80 if I am going to stain it all and make it really nice. I am partial to a cherry type stain. I as well plan on adding lighting underneath in all the different shelving areas. The shelves will only house consoles, They will not all be hooked up. I will have a set of connections available to hook up the systems up and the system in use will be on the top of the stand next to the TV.

 

These are very rough dimensions and subject to change slightly if needed for blade width. The shelves will be mounted to the uprights by a bookshelf style. I will take all my uprights and drill holes through them. The end uprights will get holes halfway through while the center sections will get them drilled all the way through. This way the uprights will have a pin going through one on each side or one pin that sticks out both sides for shelves to rest on.

 

post-25078-0-44258200-1514436926_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

Hmmmm I may want to build out of this stuff. $2 a piece damn that's cheap and 1/2" should be good. Wonder if he has a few 5' pieces.

 

https://rochester.craigslist.org/mat/d/plywood-black-with-texture/6432221741.html

 

Just checked he doesn't but 4' will be fine. I just went from $200+ plus stain to $20 and a nice shiny black surface, which is what I initially had in mind. I'm buying tons of this stuff.

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Iceman, I hope you know this is a 1080i HD CRT set. Light gun games are not going to work, as there is digital processing going on.

 

240P consoles are not going to look like they do on standard definition CRTs either, you aren't going to get the big chunky scanlines. The shadow mask and phosphors are going be a fine pitch for the higher resolution. SNES games for example are going to look closer to the look of 240P on a modern flat panel, that chunky pixel look.

 

If you were looking for the ultimate retro gaming TV, I'm sorry this isn't the one. It would be great for something like the original XBOX, or Wii. That's about it I'm afraid.

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I mentioned this in another thread but it deserves repeating: The Sony 40" XBR is probably the definitive laserdisc display. And at 1080i there is plenty of room to play with vintage video processors to fine tune your LD experience. Additionally you can play 1080p consoles on sets like this and they will look excellent, better than any 720p LCD, but the overscan is a definite problem with some games.

Edited by LaserCat
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I used to have one with the Sony stand. It looks cool but the geometry was horrible. The thing could not display a straight line even after going through the service menu. I eventually gave it away on CL because it wouldn't turn on anymore and replacing one of the common to die IC didnt fix it. When your done you should post some pics.

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I used to have one with the Sony stand. It looks cool but the geometry was horrible. The thing could not display a straight line even after going through the service menu. I eventually gave it away on CL because it wouldn't turn on anymore and replacing one of the common to die IC didnt fix it. When your done you should post some pics.

 

Too be fair, none of the consumer grade flat screen CRTs had perfect geometry.

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Iceman, I hope you know this is a 1080i HD CRT set. Light gun games are not going to work, as there is digital processing going on.

 

240P consoles are not going to look like they do on standard definition CRTs either, you aren't going to get the big chunky scanlines. The shadow mask and phosphors are going be a fine pitch for the higher resolution. SNES games for example are going to look closer to the look of 240P on a modern flat panel, that chunky pixel look.

 

If you were looking for the ultimate retro gaming TV, I'm sorry this isn't the one. It would be great for something like the original XBOX, or Wii. That's about it I'm afraid.

 

I would imagine a 240P console will not look good on any modern TV of higher resolution w/out expensive modding. However this TV composite outs at 480p, 480i and digital set top box (HD1080i, 720p) so I would imagine 240p looks better on this TV that does NOT upscale to 1080i like most modern TV's.

 

So yes this TV lacks the ability to use a zapper but you are sadly under estimating the video quality of older systems on this TV and trying to compare to full 1080i upscalers. The video is not being upscaled from 240P to 1080i on this TV. This TV as well outputs in 4:3 mode and has a 16:9 enhanced source.

 

I am going to say you are wrong and others are right that this TV is one of the best for retro gaming. Especially since it has a built in sub woofer.

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My point is you're NOT going to get the native 240P look like you would on a standard definition CRT set, which is the main reason people are sticking with CRT sets in the first place.

 

240P is most likely going to be upscaled to 480P on this set, the HD CRT WEGA I had in the early 2000's did just that.

 

Plug up a SNES and take a look.

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My point is you're NOT going to get the native 240P look like you would on a standard definition CRT set, which is the main reason people are sticking with CRT sets in the first place.

 

240P is most likely going to be upscaled to 480P on this set, the HD CRT WEGA I had in the early 2000's did just that.

 

Plug up a SNES and take a look.

 

You are as well missing the point that not all systems are 240P. Dreamcast, GameCube, ps2, wii and so on are 480. So unless I want to have a different TV for each resolution this is a great TV. I as well have a KD-27FS170 which is a 27" that is SD and allows for zapper usage. I believe that TV only outputs at 1080i and my snes games and such look amazing on it?

 

I do not have a 30 year old 240p CRT TV to test against nor do I plan on buying one. I like flat screen CRT's and if I have the option of having a TV that is only 240p and has to downscale everything else or a TV that goes up to 1080i and will upscale certain video to 480p that should be 240p, I will take the 1080i TV.

 

I am curious though what TV that outputs 240P do you feel is best?

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Don't take my word for it:

 

From 18:15

 

 

I do want to point out this an unfair comparison. This dude talks about 240p as compared to 480i. He has the option to choose progressive vs interlaced on that TV and he chooses to display a native progressive image in an interlaced format! You see this at 19:00.

 

Why not show how the TV displays 280P as compared to 480P. I wanted to go turn on the TV and take pics to compare but the damn thing will not turn on now. I hope I didn't take a paperweight.... It is very cold now down to single digits and it is in my unheated garage as I could not get it inside yet, I hope it just doesn't like the cold. At any rate is was free so if it doesn't work, then not a huge loss.

 

It did work when I got it and I had turned it on after I got it but now it just does stand by mode.

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I do want to point out this an unfair comparison. This dude talks about 240p as compared to 480i. He has the option to choose progressive vs interlaced on that TV and he chooses to display a native progressive image in an interlaced format! You see this at 19:00.

 

Why not show how the TV displays 280P as compared to 480P. I wanted to go turn on the TV and take pics to compare but the damn thing will not turn on now. I hope I didn't take a paperweight.... It is very cold now down to single digits and it is in my unheated garage as I could not get it inside yet, I hope it just doesn't like the cold. At any rate is was free so if it doesn't work, then not a huge loss.

 

It did work when I got it and I had turned it on after I got it but now it just does stand by mode.

 

This is a known issue of the HD Wegas, consult the guide written by CRTGamer here: http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=458437

 

You may have to replace some chips but it's relatively simple work, the stand by mode should be blinking a code that indicates the fault (I believe?) I've yet to run into an HD Wega personally. But replacing the MCZ3001D with MCZ3001DB is supposed to make them more robust.

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Funny how he says a quick fix is to heat up the board w/ a hairdryer LOL. I will likely get it inside first and let it warm up. If it still doesn't work properly I will look into swapping those chips. I have a hakko fr-300 so it should be an easy fix regardless.

Try unplugging it for a few hours and then attempt to turn it on. It's a common trick with these that I had to use for a while.

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Iceman, I hope you know this is a 1080i HD CRT set. Light gun games are not going to work, as there is digital processing going on.

 

240P consoles are not going to look like they do on standard definition CRTs either, you aren't going to get the big chunky scanlines. The shadow mask and phosphors are going be a fine pitch for the higher resolution. SNES games for example are going to look closer to the look of 240P on a modern flat panel, that chunky pixel look.

 

If you were looking for the ultimate retro gaming TV, I'm sorry this isn't the one. It would be great for something like the original XBOX, or Wii. That's about it I'm afraid.

 

True on light guns not working, it is an HD CRT. Has to be an SD tube either curved or flat glass.

 

As an owner of multiple SD and HD CRTs, I prefer my Atari 5200, NES and newer consoles on the HD CRT. Do not believe the hype about scanline loss ruined on HD CRTs, especially when one does not even own the different CRTs for an honest assessment. 240p/480i video is crystal clear with no upscale blur on the HD Tube.

 

An LCD or LED are outstanding for HD, look horrible with SD images. Not chunky pixels associated with retro consoles, but usually show "out of focus" blur or pixelated crap. Even a PS2 set to 480p for games that offer the supported are an upscale mess on even older 720p max resolution LCDs; imagine what a 4K TV does to SD images. If you want sharp imagery with SD video, stick with CRTs; either SD for scanline or HD CRT for detailed video with smooth rendering. I would switch to a 1080p LED only if every signal source is in HD.

 

So if you don't follow the thrift finds, last Friday I scored a KV-40XBR800. It did not come with a stand. Since this this TV weighs a massive 304lbs I need a heavy duty stand.

 

I am going to say you are wrong and others are right that this TV is one of the best for retro gaming. Especially since it has a built in sub woofer. I like flat screen CRT's and if I have the option of having a TV that is only 240p and has to downscale everything else or a TV that goes up to 1080i and will upscale certain video to 480p that should be 240p, I will take the 1080i TV.

Hey is cold weather bad for these TV's? I just went out and tried to turn it on and it will not turn on now. It has been in the single digits the last few days. The TV worked when I got it. It has just been sitting on a cart in my unheated garage and now will not turn on. It just sits in standby mode and that is it.

 

As mentioned earlier in the finds thread, be sure the custom shelf is very robust. Solid at least on inch thick vertical center support under the TV is critical. Due to the CRT front heavy, recommend an anchor in the back od the TV as pointed out in my twenty dollar repair guide.

 

That sub woofer speaker encapsulates the best sound feature that modern flat TVs cannot duplicate; the huge speaker enclosure of the CRT TV shell. Thrown in that WEGA CRTs include the third subwoofer for true built in surround sound. I have my CRTs hooked up to an amp with rear speaker and leaving the TV speakers enabled for a full sound field. You picked a great TV, a superb screen for any retro or modern console as well as DVD and Bluray view.

 

The cold air in that garage will cause damage due to condensation and could short out components inside. Kicking on the high voltage Flyback transformer in such lower temperatures really putting a risk on your rare TV. Get the TV inside, might just work normally again. Once you move the TV indoors, let it dry out and warmup for a day before plugging in. A good idea to remove the back panel for a proper dust out with soft brush and a can of air. KEEP CLEAR OF THE FLYBACK TRANSFORMER DUE TO RESIDUE HIGH VOLTAGE. I do not recommend the ground out technique to release the high voltage, that in itself a risk of injury, damaging capacitors and sensitive chips. Just clear of the flyback and the fragile electronics at the back of the tube, not a big deal.

 

Take a read of the chip replacement guide all the way thru, the hair dryer is a temporary maybe fix. Note the date of the OP, it has been years and my HD CRT still working just fine. A meteculous desolder and resolder; I added chip sockets for an easy just in case future chip replacement.

 

Repair your rare WEGA for under twenty dollars

http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=458437#p458437

Edited by CRTGAMER
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. Do not believe the hype about scanline loss ruined on HD CRTs, especially when one does not even own the different CRTs for an honest assessment. 240p/480i video is crystal clear with no upscale blur on the HD Tube.

 

 

What are you talking about? Pause that MLiG video I posted at 19:16 and look at Link. To my eyes that HD CRT snapshot is closer to the HD LCD image in appearance than the two SD CRT images in terms of scanlines.

 

Feel free to post up a counter example if you actually have one of a HD CRT with well defined scanlines for 240P content. Simply saying "don't believe the hype" without providing any evidence to the contrary doesn't mean anything. Especially when there's actual visible evidence to refute your assertion.

Edited by keepdreamin
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What are you talking about? Pause that MLiG video I posted at 19:16 and look at Link. To my eyes that HD CRT snapshot is closer to the HD LCD image in appearance than the two SD CRT images in terms of scanlines.

 

I plan on posting images compared to my SD CRT. I think its dumb he uses a 240P screenshot and then compares to a 480i image instead of a 480p image which obviously the 480i image is going to look worse.

 

 

Moving on I am going to get a set of these tonight so hopefully I can move the beast into the house.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6XvxnXFrog

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I plan on posting images compared to my SD CRT. I think its dumb he uses a 240P screenshot and then compares to a 480i image instead of a 480p image which obviously the 480i image is going to look worse.

 

 

 

Huh? That comparison footage of Link is from a SNES plugged up to the various displays.

Edited by keepdreamin
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Huh? That comparison footage of Link is from a SNES plugged up to the various displays.

 

He choose interlaced instead of progressive and he even says "digital processing that treats 280p as 480i". Be fair and choose progressive instead of interlaced. You are watching a review from someone who wants it to look bad. Who knows if that image is even from a 36" wega anyhow.

 

post-25078-0-87640100-1514677960.jpg

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He choose interlaced instead of progressive and he even says "digital processing that treats 280p as 480i". Be fair and choose progressive instead of interlaced. You are watching a review from someone who wants it to look bad. Who knows if that image is even from a 36" wega anyhow.

 

attachicon.gif480i.jpg

 

I think you're a bit confused. His point is the set itself doesn't distinguish between 240P/480i. Just like many modern flat panels do. You need to remember that 240P is a trick of sorts derived out of the 480i standard. For example, If I plugged a SNES up to the 1080P Bravia I recently got rid of, it would detect the source video as 480i. The more recent Samsungs panels are one of the few that actually recognize 240P as a separate entity from 480i.

 

That option on the WEGA (I'm pretty sure, been a while since I owned one) simply says what do you want to do with 480i content. Do you want me to deinterlace it and make a progressive image, or leave it interlaced. That is completely different than the set actually distinguishing between a 240P vs a 480i source.

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I found this information which says that the KV-40XBR700 which is essentially the same TV as the 800 has true 240p compatibility.

 

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/51f517f0e4b01da70d01ca2a/t/5a2f36e953450aa1429361d9/1513043690556/240p-TVs_20171211.pdf

 

http://www.hdretrovision.com/240p/#list

 

 

 

This may be some cables they used? owell

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That makes no sense at all. So he hooks up a snes obviously since he compares images of link. So you are saying the Wega detects the snes image as 480i instead of 240p. The way I see it and I definitely could be wrong is he is given the option to display the 240p image as 480p or 480i.

 

Yes, that is what he is saying. When you plug up a SNES (or any 240P source) the TV is seeing 480i. The TV simply doesn't know what 240P is. The TV is giving you the option for a progressive image, but since it's detecting 240P as 480i, it's going to run it's standard 480i deinterlacing process on an image that doesn't need to be deinterlaced. It's no different than the majority of HD flat panels up until recently. The fact that the TV is a CRT doesn't change the fact there is some funky digital processing going on.

 

240P being mishandled as 480i and deinterlaced brings about a bunch of issues. Added lag when there doesn't need to be is one. They cover that more in depth in one of their upscaler videos.

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