Jump to content
IGNORED

40 years later - 800 XL Indus GT 1050/happy Many floppies/games


fisherjohnr

Recommended Posts

OK pulled all this fun stuff out of the closet. Probably have 40 Floppies of games each probably 5 to 8 games each plus quite a few original Floppies with games such as a 15 and software such as VisiCalc also. . The 800 XL works fine after a keyboard change out. The 1050 with the happy had the drive seized I bought a non working 1050 of eBay to swap out but that did not fix it so that's on the back burner. The Indus works sometimes and doesn't work other times either loading DOS or try to load a game and observing it I am convinced it's just a zero Track sensor. I have all my original indus gT Floppies but that diag prog is not on them and I have tried just randomly fooling around with the zero track sensor but I can't get it consistently to work. So I saw some stuff about these SIO2USB gadgets and thought perfect I could use that to get this DIAG program running on the 800 XL so I can get it to set up correctly so I ordered one of those cheapo five dollar interface cards online but now I'm questioning whether I need an operational floppy drive to make all that work or can I connect the Atari 800 XL via USB to my PC and somehow get that DIAG program running without an operational floppy drive. Thought I understood it but today I can't get my brain around it. And I thought I had found links to freeware for the software to do this but I'm not even find a link today so if you guys could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. Pretty sure I got plenty a cool software that I could share with folks once I get all the stuff up and running. I am I technically OK been but out of it for many years (think being a real estate agent for 20 years caused some "drain bamage"! so go easy on this old guy you young uns<g>. John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure you are using the DC supply with the indus... not any of the AC supplies.... it cooks them and makes them do weird things.....

track zero sensors do not normally go intermittent... you may cause more trouble adjusting it...

Most times a thorough cleaning and a couple of blasts with keyboard duster and brush can make dirty optics clean again.. though the INDUS is fairly dust proof...

I would be more concerned with voltages and clean seated connections of chips and boards...

Edited by _The Doctor__
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thx Dr for the ideas. Indus is powered via a clean 12vdc supply I also use for ham radio. Fortunately I read about the problems with those old supplies and the 12vdc for the Indus and the 9vac for the 1050...... also tried first the cleaning of the sensor and head and also pulling and reseating the chips and connectors. I am with you that I may have caused more problems by messing with the zero sensor but that ship has sailed as they say so I figure my first thing is to get that sensor set correctly. Hence my trying to find a way to use the sio2usb to get the diag program to get the zero sensor back where it should be... or if anyone has any "tricks" to set the zero sensor without software.

Thx much john

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK pulled all this fun stuff out of the closet. Probably have 40 Floppies of games each probably 5 to 8 games each plus quite a few original Floppies with games such as a 15 and software such as VisiCalc also. . The 800 XL works fine after a keyboard change out. The 1050 with the happy had the drive seized I bought a non working 1050 of eBay to swap out but that did not fix it so that's on the back burner. The Indus works sometimes and doesn't work other times either loading DOS or try to load a game and observing it I am convinced it's just a zero Track sensor. I have all my original indus gT Floppies but that diag prog is not on them and I have tried just randomly fooling around with the zero track sensor but I can't get it consistently to work. So I saw some stuff about these SIO2USB gadgets and thought perfect I could use that to get this DIAG program running on the 800 XL so I can get it to set up correctly so I ordered one of those cheapo five dollar interface cards online but now I'm questioning whether I need an operational floppy drive to make all that work or can I connect the Atari 800 XL via USB to my PC and somehow get that DIAG program running without an operational floppy drive. Thought I understood it but today I can't get my brain around it. And I thought I had found links to freeware for the software to do this but I'm not even find a link today so if you guys could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. Pretty sure I got plenty a cool software that I could share with folks once I get all the stuff up and running. I am I technically OK been but out of it for many years (think being a real estate agent for 20 years caused some "drain bamage"! so go easy on this old guy you young uns<g>. John

I think you are looking for this.

https://sourceforge.net/projects/aspeqt-a8w-edition/

https://www.windows8downloads.com/win8-aspeqt-zuvfwmmy/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi,

another vote to check chip sockets - it turned out to be the root of my IndusGT reliability issues (ROM socket in my case)

 

here is a neat trick i learned (from Mr 1050) for a drive that wont load a disk:

 

  1. set drive to D1, all connected up but powered off
  2. on your SIO2PC emulator, load the diagnostic software onto the atari
  3. when loaded, disengage the emulator and power up the drive
  4. now any tests you run will relate to the physical drive - the atari knows no different!

 

from this you can set the RPM, the zero sensor position and check a couple of other things

 

hope this helps!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes yes should have said 30+ years. Just feels longer from my seat:)

Just discovered that I bought the wrong usb adaptor - I bought one with a connector for an Arduino and not USB. Damn.

So can someone look at this cable and tell me if this will work? I ask on this one specifically as this seller is within walking distance of me and I could get it in my hands today and getting something like this will save me some time if it is the right type.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FTDI-USB-RS232-WE-1800-BT-5-0-USB-to-RS232-Serial-Converter-Cable-Wire-End/202053061542?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

Otherwise I need to find something else or break down and buy a package from Atariware or such.

 

Thanks Mark that link looks like the one I was looking for as far as the software goes. Cool beans.

Thanks for the tips Xbrevin. I have been able to get it to load Disk Doctor 2 and was able to adjust the RPM down from 292 to 288 but have not noticed improvement. I'm thinking besides reseating the chips again perhaps I should remove them one at a time and use some contact cleaner on the sockets and make sure the chip leads are clean also?

And for everything else I need to get an Sio2PC going so I can have the capability but also so that I can download some diagnostic software.

Not to beat a dead horse but when I watch the drive error either on a read or when I try to format a new disk its always happens when it goes to the zero sensor. Perhaps that is the wrong conclusion but as I said I think since I have been messing with the zero sensor a lot I need to get that back to where it belongs while perusing other possibilities.

I guess I should also start looking at my Happy 1050 also...........

So many projects but having fun - I'm going to try some more google searches - if I could just stay away from this sites with Olivia Munn cosplay photos :)

thanks all and I'll update as I make progress......John

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

www.atarimax.com for all in one solutions hardware software solutions, commercial

Respeqt 4X or better for free and openly updated software, it's pinned at the top of the Atari 8-bit computers forum, follow the sub and read the thread...

 

The drive is giving an rpm reading means its reading sectors...

Edited by _The Doctor__
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes yes should have said 30+ years. Just feels longer from my seat:)

Just discovered that I bought the wrong usb adaptor - I bought one with a connector for an Arduino and not USB. Damn.

So can someone look at this cable and tell me if this will work? I ask on this one specifically as this seller is within walking distance of me and I could get it in my hands today and getting something like this will save me some time if it is the right type.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FTDI-USB-RS232-WE-1800-BT-5-0-USB-to-RS232-Serial-Converter-Cable-Wire-End/202053061542?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

Otherwise I need to find something else or break down and buy a package from Atariware or such.

 

Thanks Mark that link looks like the one I was looking for as far as the software goes. Cool beans.

Thanks for the tips Xbrevin. I have been able to get it to load Disk Doctor 2 and was able to adjust the RPM down from 292 to 288 but have not noticed improvement. I'm thinking besides reseating the chips again perhaps I should remove them one at a time and use some contact cleaner on the sockets and make sure the chip leads are clean also?

And for everything else I need to get an Sio2PC going so I can have the capability but also so that I can download some diagnostic software.

Not to beat a dead horse but when I watch the drive error either on a read or when I try to format a new disk its always happens when it goes to the zero sensor. Perhaps that is the wrong conclusion but as I said I think since I have been messing with the zero sensor a lot I need to get that back to where it belongs while perusing other possibilities.

I guess I should also start looking at my Happy 1050 also...........

So many projects but having fun - I'm going to try some more google searches - if I could just stay away from this sites with Olivia Munn cosplay photos :)

thanks all and I'll update as I make progress......John

 

 

 

I use this one from Lotharek.SIO2PC-USB. It works very well in conjunction with ASPEQT.

https://lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=108

 

You can also get them from Atarimax.

https://www.atarimax.com/sio2pc/documentation/

 

The one in your ebay link is USB to RS-232. That wouldn't work on your Atari without modification and an SIO plug.

If you do want to make your own, here is a video instructing how this can be done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You guys are great. Now I have the link to the software and a vid on making the cable. And I just finished with a round of the flu so now I'm back at it!

Couple of questions...all the cables for sale for this have some active electronics on them and this one is hard wired. Are the active electronics simply isolators? Trying to understand all that as far as the cables I can buy for $50 or so with some active stuff on it vs my making one like this vid hardwired. I am learning some good stuff though both for my old Atari friend and USB cables......

Also..... for following this gents video......instead of cutting a good SIO cable can I, when finished, wind up with the original cable with both ends connected and the USB basically in parallel off the wires he says to connect the USB to? Hope that makes sense. What I'm thinking is if I can parallel the USB onto the existing cable I could still have that cable available for hooking up a second drive some time when I do not need the USB connection ... and I can use the USB part by only connecting the SIO cable on one end to the Atari and the other end left loose. (I see no problem with that of course but next is the real question) Or is there any harm in say having this cable connecting the Atari computer and the Indus drive together and at the same time having the USB cable connected to my PC? Not sure if that would drive the software on either end crazy???

I'm confusing myself trying to type this and hope I'm not doing the same to all here:)

Thanks

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got mine from eBay and it’s great. Yes you can hook it to the end of an SIO cable. Remove the shell on one end and wire it up. You’ll need to enlarge the cable hole in the shell a little, and you must secure the USB cable from pulling out.

 

There’s Active components already in the USB end of the cable. Mine does 125K no problem.Important: Make sure it’s a Genuine FTDI chip cable, and that has 6 wires, and is 5 volt.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...