14 replies to this topic

[Jin]

Some of the NES related discussions around here as of late reminded me that it sure would be nice to be able to play my favorite NES games again, and those all happen to be Zapper light gun games: Hogan's Alley, Freedom Force, and Mechanized Attack in particular. I parted ways with my old original toaster model NES a few years ago due not wanting to deal with the flakey 72 pin connectors anymore, since even with a new connector in it (and I tried 3 or 4 different ones) I'd still get random game freezes from floor vibrations and such.

 

With that in mind I definitely don't want another original toaster model NES, so was I wondering what my best option for playing NES Zapper games these days might be? Would a composite video modded NES-101 top loader system still work properly with light gun games or is there another potentially better option that the NES aficionados around these parts would recommend in the under $200 price range? 

 

Any advice would be appreciated.  

[Austin]

Yes, an A/V modded top loader will work fine. Or a clone system if you don't mind less than favorable audio/video quality.

[Jin]

Yes, an A/V modded top loader will work fine. Or a clone system if you don't mind less than favorable audio/video quality.

Thanks Austin! I figured a composite modded top loader would probably be my best option for game compatibility and audio/video quality, but my knowledge of exactly how the system interprets data from the light gun is a little lacking so I wasn't sure if light gun functionality would still work properly after doing the composite video modification. Glad to know it will, and I do all my retro gaming on CRT TVs so that's no worries either.

[Flojomojo]

Has anyone ever modded a Zapper gun to be more of an "automatic"? The CLICK FWANG of the trigger was always a bit much for me. I preferred the light touch of the (much later) Saturn and Dreamcast guns ... not that I have much affection to on-rail arcade shooters anymore. :-(

[DJ Clae]

RGB on real hardware with a scart to component adapter on a CRT.

[Eltigro]

So... just because it kinda came up... how much does it cost to get a top loader AV modded these days?

[Jin]

So... just because it kinda came up... how much does it cost to get a top loader AV modded these days?

Around $150 shipped based on eBay sold listings. Over the last few months I've seen them going anywhere from $130 shipped to $190 shipped depending on condition and what was included with the system. Personally I'm looking to pay $160 shipped for a really minty condition composite modded top loader with power supply and (hopefully) the dog bone controller.

[Eltigro]

I mean, I already have the top loader... just thinking about the mod prices...

[Jin]

I mean, I already have the top loader... just thinking about the mod prices...

Ahh, I gotcha now. To do it cleanly with a 3D printed back panel rather than drilling into the NES housing the mod parts alone are around $49 + shipping ( https://store.retrof...ant=28187067719 & https://store.retrof...iant=4236545985 ) so I'd figure $55 + a few hours of labor expenses to have someone composite mod your top loader.

Edited by Jin, Wed Apr 11, 2018 8:59 PM.

[Tanooki]

I have an AV modded top loader also has a stereo separation wheel in the back to spin for effect and a light under the switch for power.  I'm looking to offload it as I'm getting another system instead.  I haven't seen a good one go for $130 but maybe I missed that, or it was just a bare system.  Mine still has a working RF adapter/jack, rca cable(Stereo) and mod, original power brick, original and dogbone controllers (2 controllers) included.  I think I took pictures of it but I've been off from my machine for a bit.

 

System is also clean, no cracks, no yellowing, no funk as it was my system I had picked up years ago to use casually modded already.

Edited by Tanooki, Thu Apr 12, 2018 5:26 PM.

[mobiusstriptech]

Personally I never recommend drilling the RCA jacks. There is literally no reason to not get the replacement rear panel these days. I will do a composite mod with the rear panel for $60. And I won't cut pin 21. I will socket the PPU and lift it properly.

[tripletopper]

You can keep the NES VCR style machine.   If you can follow a few simple directions, you can install a "blinking light win".  I haven't tried it but most independent internet reviewers say it works wonders for all licensed NES games.  Tengen cartridges may have a tough time coming out, but the solution for that is a Game Genie.  No more bent pins is their claim, and bent pins are the number one reason for blowing and playing with the NES tray.

 

PS.  Someone should make a "non-cheat" version of a pin extender, which is basically a Game Genie without the cheat properties.  Also it says it has a region and unauthorized lockout chip.  Would Japanese games work with a proper physical JPN game-> US system adapter.

[Kosmic Stardust]

Just get a toaster system and install the blinking light win cart loader replacement. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver.

Edit: tripletopper beat me to it.

[Video]

Wonder if you could get an aftermarket, or replacement 72 pin connector for a top loader and just replace the zif with that? Yeah, you'd have to cut a hole in the top of the toaster, or some sort of right angle adapter. But toasters are far cheaper than top loaders, and have at built in.

Or you could get a snes av cable and just plug it into the mvo port. I did that from day one. I don't know why the idea that the mvo doesn't support av. I mean, it would have to support something.

[F34R]

I don't have the BEST display, but...

 

Playing with my NT Mini on the 27" FV310 is so damn clean.  Playing on the PVM20LMD is really good as well, just not as much screen area obviously.

Edited by F34R, Sat May 12, 2018 6:42 AM.