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Console Repainting Info Repository?


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#1 BassGuitari ONLINE  

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Posted Mon Apr 16, 2018 2:28 PM

We all have, or have seen once-white or light-colored videogame systems and computers with some degree of yellowing, ranging from a relatively innocuous burnt cream patina to puke brown. Retrobriting appears to yield mixed results, and also impermanence. For example, I retrobrited a TV Scoreboard unit only two summers ago, which has already turned back almost as yellow as it was before.

 

I have several systems--including peripherals in several cases--that could stand a thorough de-yellowing, but I'm increasingly of the mind that simply repainting them may be the better way to go in the long run in most cases. As close to the original colors as possible, of course. I am an unapologetic purist, after all. :)

 

I've seen info on this subject for various systems but it all seems to be flung across system-specific forums and threads (or even websites!). Is there a centralized thread that compiles the paints, materials, and techniques people have used to restore the cases of their systems?

 

Some of my intended projects include TRS-80 Model I (minor wrist wear), Tandy 2, Odyssey 200 (and my original Odyssey, for that matter), Apple //e, Atari 800, ADAM, Studio II, and Intellivision II. But it could be useful for others refurbishing different systems as well. :)



#2 KylJoy OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Apr 16, 2018 4:48 PM

I repainted an Odyssey 2 with the closest paint I could find. I believe I used Krylon Fusion. I'll see if I can find my previous post about it.

#3 KylJoy OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Apr 16, 2018 11:04 PM

Hey, the thread I was remembering is HERE.

 

Here are some pics of my finished Odyssey²:

 

In all it's boxed glory

20180416_235351.jpg

 

From above

20180416_235038.jpg

 

Button detail - I only painted the buttons on these controllers - Notice the slight color variation

20180416_235117.jpg

 

Closeup of the decal I made to replace the one that was obliterated during refinishing and repainting

20180416_235108.jpg



#4 KylJoy OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Apr 16, 2018 11:07 PM

And, believe it or not, I am also generally a purist.  But this unit is repainted and has homemade RGB and composite mods installed in it as well.  Not sure why I went nuts on the O².  But it looked horrible and was not functional before I started.  :)



#5 keepdreamin OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Apr 17, 2018 5:47 AM

I've had good results with Krylon Fusion. Unless you were concerned with resale, I wouldn't mess with Retrobright. Mixing that nasty stuff up and the time involved only to have it yellow again down the road isn't worth it.

#6 BassGuitari ONLINE  

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Posted Tue Apr 17, 2018 9:25 AM

... I wouldn't mess with Retrobright. Mixing that nasty stuff up and the time involved only to have it yellow again down the road isn't worth it.

 

You don't have to mix anything--you can just use 40-vol. creme developer. But yeah, it seems like it does re-yellow after a little while. I'd rather refurb a thing once rather than every couple of years. :-D

 

Krylon Fusion is looking like a good way to go for most yellowed systems. :)

 

Kyljoy, can you tell a little more about how you made the decal for you Odyssey 2?


Edited by BassGuitari, Tue Apr 17, 2018 9:26 AM.


#7 KylJoy OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Apr 19, 2018 9:30 AM

Kyljoy, can you tell a little more about how you made the decal for you Odyssey 2?

 

Sure!

  1. Took a high-res photo of a real logo
  2. Edited/cleaned up the image in GIMP
  3. Test printed the image on plain paper a few times to get the size just right
  4. Printed the image on waterslide decal paper (HERE)
  5. Applied the logo decal to the O2 following the decal instructions


#8 BassGuitari ONLINE  

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Posted Sat Apr 21, 2018 12:29 PM

 

 

Sure!

  1. Took a high-res photo of a real logo
  2. Edited/cleaned up the image in GIMP
  3. Test printed the image on plain paper a few times to get the size just right
  4. Printed the image on waterslide decal paper (HERE)
  5. Applied the logo decal to the O2 following the decal instructions

 

 

Nice! You make it sound so easy. :lol:

 

Definitely something I need to play around with.



#9 Keatah OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Apr 21, 2018 1:31 PM

Very nicely done. Without extreme scrutiny I would not be able to tell it was restored.

 

And it's the original version, too, with removable, silver, hand controllers!



#10 Video ONLINE  

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Posted Sat Apr 21, 2018 1:47 PM

Nice, I was going to say "but aren't the controllers black?" But the above poster reminded me of the removable ones.

Curious, are they 2600 compatible? I like the feel of the hardwired controllers, almost analog feeling.

#11 BassGuitari ONLINE  

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Posted Sat Apr 21, 2018 1:54 PM

Curious, are they 2600 compatible?

 

No.

 

You probably would have heard of people using Odyssey joysticks on Atari/Commodore systems otherwise. ;) :P



#12 Keatah OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Apr 21, 2018 2:08 PM

I would imagine and guess that with a bit of rewiring, or using a simple "gender-changer" style "adapter" they could be made to work.



#13 KylJoy OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Apr 21, 2018 3:23 PM

Curious, are they 2600 compatible? I like the feel of the hardwired controllers, almost analog feeling.

 

The original O² had removable controllers but they are not 2600 compatible by default.  You can build adapters like these:

 

20180421_161742.jpg

 

Or even mod a console with additional ports for 2600 compatible controllers like someone did HERE:

 

post-38115-0-01276600-1426035383.jpg



#14 BassGuitari ONLINE  

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Posted Sat Apr 21, 2018 4:08 PM

Before we get too OT, does anyone know of a solution for scratched metal plates and panels, such as those found on the Intellivision, Atari 5200, 7800, and 2600jr., or Studio II? Whether repairing it, refinishing it, or replacing it altogether with a non-metal (but perhaps metallic-painted) decal or label? I've read about buffing and/or sanding but it doesn't seem like that would help something like an Intellivision.

 

Damaged metal parts are the worst. Especially the brushed metal ones.



#15 KylJoy OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Apr 21, 2018 4:20 PM

The metallic "stickers" on the front (top of the 7800 and 5200) were for sale brand-new from Best Electronis a while back.  I had the priveledge to buy the last 7800 sticker they had in stock a couple of years ago.  :(  I'm not sure about the 5200.

 

I have had luck using a drill (dremmel, whatever) and a wire brush wheel to re-finish metallic surfaces into a "stainless-steel-like" finish.  It is really just aligning a whole lot of tiny scratches ("brushed metal"-esque) to cover up the old unaligned ones.  It looks pretty good if done right.  Of course, this removes decals and painted or silk screened images. Those images could be recreated as a decal for the 7800, 5200 etc.  Maybe possible for the Intellivision as well.  The metalic sticker would need removed first, probably by heating with a heat gun (blow dryer?).  I have not tried this yet on a 7800, 5200 or Intellivision metallic sticker thingy.

 

We could always start a "group-buy" for some replacement metalic stickers.  We could have some new ones made if there were enough people needing them in order to make it worth the cost.



#16 BassGuitari ONLINE  

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Posted Sat Apr 21, 2018 4:50 PM

 

We could always start a "group-buy" for some replacement metalic stickers.  We could have some new ones made if there were enough people needing them in order to make it worth the cost.

 

I don't think I've ever even seen an Intellivision (or INTV System III or Super Pro System) that wouldn't have benefited from fresh metal panels. Likewise for Studio II--which always seem to have some "varicose vein" stuff going on with the control panels--or Atari 7800. (Remarkably, I have 5200 and 2600jr systems with very clean, scratch-free strips).

 

Wasn't there somebody with access to CNC machinery who was making crafty kinds of projects?






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