PRICE DROP 5/3 Atari 7800 Arcade Stick (Seimitsu stick/Sanwa buttons)

[+GoldenWheels]

PRICE DROP 5/3: $85 shipped in the US only, First Class Mail, $75 shipped for an Atari Age subscriber. Payment by Paypal.

Controller is properly wired for two-button Atari 7800 play. Made with a brand new Seimitsu LS-32 stick. The stick topper is a cut-down control knob from a stock Atari 7800 controller. Can be removed/replaced.

The buttons are brand new Sanwa 30 mm buttons.

Cord is from a donor Atari 7800 controller so it has the proper Atari logo on the plug end.

Controller top and back bezel are overlaid with a black wood grain vinyl.

Controller measures approximately 9 1/4 L x 5 5/8 W x 2 1/8 H.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 3, 2018 by GoldenWheels

[+save2600]

Ha! Great re-implementation of the original stick topper. Atari logos are sweet too.

[Osgeld]

ever slice your wrist with those screw heads sticking out so far?

[Andromeda Stardust]

How did you thread the joystick top? Are they standard m6 like the joystick balls, or did you have to tap it?

[+GoldenWheels]

ever slice your wrist with those screw heads sticking out so far?

Nope! They don't stick out any further than the crown of the equivalent size panhead screw would and...screw heads are not sharp.

 

Using the beveled head screws (that come with the stick) keeps the vinyl from twisting/puckering when I tighten the stick down. I didn't foresee that happening the first time I did it but man, I was not happy as the vinyl was ruined. Sometimes I punch holes now for the vinyl where screws go through (as I did for the case bolts here) but that can also be hit or miss.

[+GoldenWheels]

How did you thread the joystick top? Are they standard m6 like the joystick balls, or did you have to tap it?

 

Tap. They're not threaded at all, they're like cemented (or just jammed?) onto the 7800 posts. Can be pulled off pretty easily.

 

I put the tops in a vice (junk bottom side being the piece I clamp on) and just hack saw through them right at where the detail lines end, using the edge of the vice to keep the cut straight. Then I put them on the drill press with a either a 7/16 or a 17/32 bit (can't recall right now but I can check the shop to be sure). Drill down enough for the thread, and hand screw on. First time is hard but once the plastic has been threaded once it is almost as easy as a real top.

[Andromeda Stardust]

 

Tap. They're not threaded at all, they're like cemented (or just jammed?) onto the 7800 posts. Can be pulled off pretty easily.

 

I put the tops in a vice (junk bottom side being the piece I clamp on) and just hack saw through them right at where the detail lines end, using the edge of the vice to keep the cut straight. Then I put them on the drill press with a either a 7/16 or a 17/32 bit (can't recall right now but I can check the shop to be sure). Drill down enough for the thread, and hand screw on. First time is hard but once the plastic has been threaded once it is almost as easy as a real top.

Nice. All I have is a corded hand drill. Probably mod would not work without a press to stabilize the part.

[Andromeda Stardust]

Nope! They don't stick out any further than the crown of the equivalent size panhead screw would and...screw heads are not sharp.

 

Using the beveled head screws (that come with the stick) keeps the vinyl from twisting/puckering when I tighten the stick down. I didn't foresee that happening the first time I did it but man, I was not happy as the vinyl was ruined. Sometimes I punch holes now for the vinyl where screws go through (as I did for the case bolts here) but that can also be hit or miss.

I usually use countersink screws so they fit flush with the control panel. Note this requires a minimum of 1/4" Control panel thickness. I would recommend using button top screws with 1/8" panels.

 

A drop of superglue under the screw head prevents it from rotating in place. Then I thread the joystick baseplate on and apply the vinyl over the screw heads. No mess and the flat top screws are hidden under the vinyl. Best to use phillips head screws since flat slotted screws will be more noticeable under the decals.

[Osgeld]

Nice. All I have is a corded hand drill. Probably mod would not work without a press to stabilize the part.

 

best 50 bucks I have spent was on the smallest/cheapest horrible fright drill press, its not very powerful, but its surprisingly decent in the runout department, couple tweaks and I had it running a couple thou outside perfectly concentric

[Andromeda Stardust]

best 50 bucks I have spent was on the smallest/cheapest horrible fright drill press, its not very powerful, but its surprisingly decent in the runout department, couple tweaks and I had it running a couple thou outside perfectly concentric

 

Wow 50 bucks. I'd love to get a portable drill press and table top saw, but the saws start around $400. Circular saws I got to fabricate a rip guide and meticulously clamp every cut to ensure it goes straight.

 

Portable in this context does not mean battery operated, but a plug in unit that I can set on top of a table and put up when I'm done with it.

[+GoldenWheels]

I usually use countersink screws so they fit flush with the control panel. Note this requires a minimum of 1/4" Control panel thickness. I would recommend using button top screws with 1/8" panels.

 

A drop of superglue under the screw head prevents it from rotating in place. Then I thread the joystick baseplate on and apply the vinyl over the screw heads. No mess and the flat top screws are hidden under the vinyl. Best to use phillips head screws since flat slotted screws will be more noticeable under the decals.

A good solution but here, as you may have guessed, my case is too thin to allow countersinking.

[Andromeda Stardust]

A good solution but here, as you may have guessed, my case is too thin to allow countersinking.

Which is why I said I don't recommend countersinking on panels less than 1/4", and 1/4" is already pushing it. You can safely countersink a #8 machine screw (or an M4 if using metric) in a 1/4" (6mm) wooden panel. Secure the mounting plate underneath with washers and nuts. Unless you beat on the joystick with a hammer, it probably isn't going to break off (and if you beat on it with your hammer, drop kick it, attempt to play it in the pool or shower, or otherwise abuse your wooden enclosure, and it breaks, it's really your own fault...)

[+GoldenWheels]

PRICE DROP 5/3: $85 shipped in the US only, First Class Mail, $75 shipped for an Atari Age subscriber. Payment by Paypal.