Blueprint problems on my 5200

[bradhig1]

I bought a Blue Print cart for Vintage Stock and when I use the regular controllers I can't go right. When I use my Wico I can go right but going down is troublesome and I can't go all the way to the bottom of the blueprint to put the feet on. I have a two port 5200. Do I need a four port?

[bradhig1]

Now after repairing one controller the start button doesn't work on it. They other one won't go down or right. Even my wico command control won't work right. I have 2600 joystick adapter and it won't calibrate. I think there is an issue with the console.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

It is likely that the pokey itself needs to be adjusted. This is done through one of the pot wheels below the power switch I believe it is. You might pop in Kangaroo and or Popeye and see if you have trouble controlling those. I've noticed that Popeye is especially sensitive on controller calibration.

 

The worst games to this by far are Gyruss and Bounty Bob though...

[bradhig1]

It is likely that the pokey itself needs to be adjusted. This is done through one of the pot wheels below the power switch I believe it is. You might pop in Kangaroo and or Popeye and see if you have trouble controlling those. I've noticed that Popeye is especially sensitive on controller calibration.

 

The worst games to this by far are Gyruss and Bounty Bob though...

I ordered a repair for one controller in which the start ,pause ,and reset buttons don't work. I am going to replace the circuit thing in it. Which test cart do I need to adjust the pokey?

Edited June 7, 2018 by bradhig1

[bradhig1]

Now after opening it I can't run a single game on it. Just a blank green or yellow screen.

[bradhig1]

I am sick and tired of taking things apart and fixing them. This system should work. All I did was open it and now it won't play games any more why? Why can't it just work?

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Did you take the console apart? The pot wheel I was talking about only requires that the top cover be lifted off. You don't have to remove the RF shielding to access it as it is right there under the power switch area. The 5200 is a much more complicated beast than a 2600 and many other consoles with all the ram modules etc. It is also a very static prone console so stray ESD from handling it and not being properly grounded can cause issues with the ram modules and controller multiplexer IC chips on the board.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

I ordered a repair for one controller in which the start ,pause ,and reset buttons don't work. I am going to replace the circuit thing in it. Which test cart do I need to adjust the pokey?

 

just saw this....you actually need either the Pete's test cart (which is what I use) or the official one. But you also need the controller loopback board to adjust it all properly and there are two loopback boards. One for the 4 port (Which I own) and there is one for the 2 ports (I don't own...). Using those in conjunction with the diagnostic carts or roms if you have them on a flash cart, help to adjust the pokey value itself. Further calibration of the controllers after that, is done by actually adjusting the white actuator plastic arms on the pots inside the controller itself. they are just pressed fit onto the pots and can be moved past their stop points. But you only need to adjust them in mm increments. Not the easiest thing to do.

 

Most people will eyeball this using star wars arcade or missle command. Basically if you have the controller stick dead center and turn on the console, the cursor for those games should be just off center towards the right a bit.

[bradhig1]

I

 

Did you take the console apart? The pot wheel I was talking about only requires that the top cover be lifted off. You don't have to remove the RF shielding to access it as it is right there under the power switch area. The 5200 is a much more complicated beast than a 2600 and many other consoles with all the ram modules etc. It is also a very static prone console so stray ESD from handling it and not being properly grounded can cause issues with the ram modules and controller multiplexer IC chips on the board.

took the cover off and then no games would work. I ordered a new motherboard for it.

[bradhig1]

Got the new board and the system works fine now. Blueprint died after I cleaned it. The game was crashing after starting a game in it now it just shows the Atari logo on screen when I power on the console with it. Pitfall doesn't work with the new cpu. Is there a way to flash it with my flashcart?

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Did you mention if this is a 2 port or 4 port unit?

 

Pitfall doesn't work in 2 port units and requires you install the 4port bios chip into to get pitfall, krazy shootout, and others to work properly.

[bradhig1]

It is a 2 port unit. Pitfall worked on the old main board. Just put a new flex circuit in one controller that had issues with the start ,reset ,and pause buttons not working and it works fine now.

[+Mitch]

Swap the BIOS chip from the old board then and Pitfall will work. Or download the patched versions of the three games with issues and load them on to your Ataimax cart. Either will allow you to play the games.

 

Mitch

[bradhig1]

swapped the chip. Pitfall image on flashcart works and blueprint on flashcart works. Both carts are bad.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Hmm...you know I have to say that I've honestly only ever had 1 Atari carts go bad that I have during all my years now.

 

1 was a copy of F-14 Tomcat for the 7800 that just suddenly died and wouldn't work anymore after the first week I got it. I exchanged it for F-18 Hornet instead at the time.

 

the 2nd game is a copy of Tapper for the 2600s. I've taken the PCB out of the shell and scrubbed and scrubbed it to no avail. I even checked continuity on the contacts to as close as I could next to the blob hiding the actual ROM and they all checked good. So no ideas on that one. But I've also got like 3 or 4 games that are literally just laying around and are nothing but the bare PCB and I've them for well over 20 years like this and they still fire up to this day?!

 

I guess my point is that I would be surprised if the carts were actually bad and might not just need more vigorous cleaning on them? Using a pencil eraser on the contacts works well. Just use some alcohol and q-tip after to remove the eraser residue.

 

Or..it could be due to the BIOS in your 5200s still being 2port versions and the reason the ones on your flashcart work is because they are already modified versions of the roms that will work on standard 2port 5200s.

[bradhig1]

The blueprint cart worked when I first bought it and now it doesn't. PItfall I used 800 grit sandpaper on it and washed it off with water and it just displays a solid red screen.

[bradhig1]

Here is the bios in my two port right now.