flashjazzcat Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 The iron-on laser printer toner method works well for these kinds of labels, but it needs sealing with lacquer to be really durable. We'll have to look into the badge situation. Front panel looks very nice indeed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 I've been fiddling with fonts and came up with this. It looks pretty close to what was used on the 1050 label. The hook on the top of the "1" is a little different then the font they used, but I think it goes well with the ATARI before it. Now I just need to find a place that can take this and create a brushed metal looking label. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 The 1050 font is Frutiger. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 (edited) lol Frutiger made many lynotype fonts etc etc... Edited February 1, 2019 by _The Doctor__ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariNerd Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 (edited) Looking sharp. Edited February 1, 2019 by AtariNerd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evidious Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Just a Suggestion mytek but maybe you can try a place that does trophy engraving for your front panel label? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 Just a Suggestion mytek but maybe you can try a place that does trophy engraving for your front panel label? Interesting idea, but the label I am fiddling with is for the metal strip on the top case, not for the front panel. So it needs to be something that will cover over the original 1050 label. My original idea was to go with some sort of transfer lettering, but that would require first that I erase what's there. I tried industrial strength alcohol and acetone, but didn't even make a dent. As for the front panel, that will be done by Front Panel Express. So all the machining and engraving is created by their CNC machines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 (edited) lol Frutiger made many lynotype fonts etc etc... I'm aware of that. There is also a typeface named after Adrian Frutiger, designed by Linotype in 1976 that was very popular at the time. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frutiger_(typeface) The more you know. Edited February 1, 2019 by Mr Robot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 I realize that but you have to be specific about certain things these days... I get in trouble for assuming such things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 The 1050 font is Frutiger. I downloaded what should be the font you are referring to, but haven't put it into play yet. Thanks for the tip . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebiguy Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 I see on your pictures that Antic and GTIA have the same orientation. Does it means that we can not have both Sophia DVI and VBXE ? Or maybe a VBXE in XL version would fit ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted February 2, 2019 Author Share Posted February 2, 2019 I see on your pictures that Antic and GTIA have the same orientation. Does it means that we can not have both Sophia DVI and VBXE ? Or maybe a VBXE in XL version would fit ? Possibly. But I guess it would depend upon what VBXE version you have. Also there is the problem of where do both video outputs end up going? Currently the plan would be to use J5 (RGB-THRU) to route the signals out to the DIN-13 connector. Keep in mind that the CSYNC and VSYNC generated by the LM1881 Sync Separator are also directly fed to the DIN-13. So a possible scenario might be to have the VBXE use the DIN-13 and the Sophia then would have it's own separate connector (have to add an extra hole in the case). Sophia produces it's own sync signals, so it's the logical one to go to a separate connector. Just keep in mind this was not part of the original plan, with the original idea being to use either a Sophia or an XE Version VBXE (XL might work, but not ideal if Rapidus is installed), but not both at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 This thread needs a little bumping ... Beta boards are making their way to builders and most of us wil begin melting solder in the next few days. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookt Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Watching with great interest. Ive got at least a couple of spare 1050 cases and this might be just the project to get me back into Atari after something of a break. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Hoping my boards will arrive on Tuesday. I'll be spending lots of time on Monday getting my bench cleaned up and placing a HUGE order from the Brewing Academy 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 Just want to point out that the small S2 Synthesizer carrier board shown in DrVenkman's post is not required for this build. That is an accessory item aimed at the 1088XEL. The S2 Synthesizer plug-in is already built into the 1088XLD. One last note: Presently there is no 1088XLD page on the AtariBits website, so for the time being this is the place where you'll find info on this project. Eventually, and probably just before public release of the project is imminent, that missing web page will materialize . Ok so I lied One more Note: Any schematics that were previously uploaded to this topic are likely hopelessly out of date, and cannot be trusted to match up with this current revision PCB. When the project is considered FINAL there will be a fresh set of diagrams uploaded. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 Another Bump --- Some misc. updates... Final Front Panel Design Recessed edges are gone in order to eliminate critical alignment issues, as well as to lessen the cost. The counter-sunk holes will be hidden behind the original brown plastic bezel. New Serial Number Labels for the Bottom of the Case Can't have the original 1050 label after this conversion, so I created a new 1088XLD version instead. These are being made by StickerYou. I have a Brother P-Touch label printer on the way, and will be experimenting with creating a new label for the brushed metal trim piece. My thought was to use a matte sliver with black lettering label tape as the base. Then print "Atari 1088XLD" in graphics mode using the original fonts, and leave enough leader on the front and back to allow for adhering and wrapping this to the metal trim. Cons: it'll no longer be that shiny metal surface, Pros: it won't be so prone to scratching. Original Metal Trim 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebiguy Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 I am wondering if this 1088XLD need a new U1MB firmware ? Maybe for the MIDI stuff ? Or maybe just for having the title not saying 1088XEL. This would be a detail but I know that flashjazzcat likes when all details are perfect. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 I am wondering if this 1088XLD need a new U1MB firmware ? Maybe for the MIDI stuff ? Or maybe just for having the title not saying 1088XEL. This would be a detail but I know that flashjazzcat likes when all details are perfect. I actually already suggested to Mytek the idea of changing the BIOS and loader logos to suit: it seems you have a similar eye for detail. The rest of the firmware will be functionally identical, however. The MIDI interface will be getting a new player at some point which will avail itself of CIO access to FAT folders via the loader's updated FMS. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebiguy Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 @flashjazzcat: your signature has a wrong URL for The Last Word. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Oh thanks. Will fix tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted February 20, 2019 Author Share Posted February 20, 2019 Using a Brother PT-P700 Label Printer. I created a new trim label. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+kheller2 Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 Oooh.. that's pretty. Give's me an idea for some other labels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted February 21, 2019 Author Share Posted February 21, 2019 (edited) Here's the specifics on what was needed to create the label...Printer: Brother PT-P700Tape: LMe-M941 (18 mm Black on Matt Silver)Tape Selection (Page 1 of 2): ChartPrint File, Fonts, and Graphic (updated 2/27/2019):1088XLD_Labels.zip I had to do a bit of fiddling around to get a close, but not exact match to the original 1050 label, which required using individual letters so that I could space them as I desired. I used a condensed version of the Frutiger Light font for the system numbers, and SF Atarian System (non-extended) Bold for the ATARI name. I used the printer's built-in editor which gets loaded through the USB, so no need to install any programs. However due to the special nature of what I was after, I used another program to create a high resolution graphic that better represented what I had in mind, and then used the insert image mode of the printer editor. As can be seen, it worked very well.Edit: Revised files contained in zip. Now includes two hi-rez images, one for the trim product ID, and the other for the serial number label. Also updated Brother native editor image used to print trim label. Edited February 27, 2019 by mytek 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellis Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 Using a Brother PT-P700 Label Printer. PT-P700.jpg I created a new trim label. 1088XLD_trim_label_installed.JPG That's a great first effort, but the text needs to be properly kerned before it will look as though Atari made it. Specifically: the spacing between "A R I" needs to be tightened as does the spacing between "0 8 8 X L D" 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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