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My homemade 5200 controller


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#151 Protestari OFFLINE  

Protestari

    Dragonstomper

  • 851 posts
  • Location:Toronto Canada

Posted Wed Nov 7, 2018 6:17 PM

 

Just get the hacked version of frogger so you don' t have to press fire to move. Makes it much more enjoyable to play.

 

Shawn, where can I find that hacked version? thanks :)



#152 amiman99 OFFLINE  

amiman99

    Stargunner

  • 1,187 posts
  • Location:San Antonio, TX USA

Posted Wed Nov 7, 2018 6:39 PM

 

Will this case & the 3D printed buttons work with my current controller without having to do any soldering and leaving all the switches as stock?

Meaning that the 3D printed buttons just sit on top of all the stock buttons as in the picture below? Thanks.

It looks like the buttons and the analog stick are perfectly mirrored, so it should fit fine when the buttons are flipped.

 

Some of you made the fire buttons straight down, not at an angle, that is a problem.



#153 amiman99 OFFLINE  

amiman99

    Stargunner

  • 1,187 posts
  • Location:San Antonio, TX USA

Posted Wed Nov 7, 2018 7:48 PM

@smbaker

I tested the controller on bunch of games, and it works well.

I noticed in the Missile Command that the crosshair is not in the middle, is it possible to calibrate this somehow?

I also noticed in the Pacman, that sometimes when you start a level and go right then down, the controller becomes unresponsive. It's not always.

 

Thanks



#154 Shawn OFFLINE  

Shawn

    The Kraken

  • 18,360 posts

Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 2:51 AM

@smbaker

I tested the controller on bunch of games, and it works well.

I noticed in the Missile Command that the crosshair is not in the middle, is it possible to calibrate this somehow?

I also noticed in the Pacman, that sometimes when you start a level and go right then down, the controller becomes unresponsive. It's not always.

 

Thanks

 

Adjust your Pokey chip inside your console.



#155 Shawn OFFLINE  

Shawn

    The Kraken

  • 18,360 posts

Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 2:53 AM

 

Shawn, where can I find that hacked version? thanks :)

Attached File  Frogger (no button hack).zip   6.05KB   6 downloads



#156 Protestari OFFLINE  

Protestari

    Dragonstomper

  • 851 posts
  • Location:Toronto Canada

Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 7:22 AM

 

Thanks Buddy :)



#157 amiman99 OFFLINE  

amiman99

    Stargunner

  • 1,187 posts
  • Location:San Antonio, TX USA

Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 10:13 AM

 

Adjust your Pokey chip inside your console.

Thanks, that fixed it!



#158 Shawn OFFLINE  

Shawn

    The Kraken

  • 18,360 posts

Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 4:05 PM

So nobody with a first run board can tell me if SJ2 and SJ3 are to be closed or not

with a left handed setup? :(

 

thumbnail_20181106_190834.jpg

 

 

 

 



#159 john_q_atari ONLINE  

john_q_atari

    Star Raider

  • 99 posts
  • Y build 1 when U can have 2 for twice the price!
  • Location:San Jose, CA

Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 4:37 PM

I have them closed on mine. I seem to recall needing to do that to have them function for me. Not sure that left or right handedness has anything to do with whether or not you should close the jumpers. Even if you needed to open them again that shouldn't be difficult.



#160 Shawn OFFLINE  

Shawn

    The Kraken

  • 18,360 posts

Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 4:50 PM

I have them closed on mine. I seem to recall needing to do that to have them function for me. Not sure that left or right handedness has anything to do with whether or not you should close the jumpers. Even if you needed to open them again that shouldn't be difficult.

 

Ya difficulty isn't a thing, I was more worried about protecting the digital pot on the controller and the pokey inside my machine.

Thanks so much for your reply. Sometimes, even when I know better, I find a way to doubt myself for no reason.



#161 smbaker OFFLINE  

smbaker

    Star Raider

  • Topic Starter
  • 91 posts

Posted Fri Nov 9, 2018 2:10 PM

So nobody with a first run board can tell me if SJ2 and SJ3 are to be closed or not

with a left handed setup? :(

 

attachicon.gifthumbnail_20181106_190834.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Left or right handed, these should be closed. They are to put the digital pot in "rheostat" mode (I'm not sure to what extent it really matters, but that's how we're using the pots). On the second revision of the board, I eliminated the solder jumpers and closed them.

 

Scott



#162 Shawn OFFLINE  

Shawn

    The Kraken

  • 18,360 posts

Posted Sat Nov 10, 2018 12:01 PM

 

Left or right handed, these should be closed. They are to put the digital pot in "rheostat" mode (I'm not sure to what extent it really matters, but that's how we're using the pots). On the second revision of the board, I eliminated the solder jumpers and closed them.

 

Scott

 

Ya I recall you removed them on the new version. Thanks.



#163 amiman99 OFFLINE  

amiman99

    Stargunner

  • 1,187 posts
  • Location:San Antonio, TX USA

Posted Sat Nov 10, 2018 5:26 PM

Hi, Here is my case design,

Let's call it "Version 1", with square buttons. The zip file includes the case for left and right analog joystick positions, plus all the needed buttons.

The case can be printed w/o supports, if your printer can handle it. For best results print with supports around the edges. Print the case face down.

Slow down the 1st layer print to 20mm/s, so it stick nice to the plate and gives you nice face.

Print buttons with a BRIM around it.

 

For the screws, use #4x3/8in Pan Philips 490192 Hillman or equvalent.

https://www.lowes.co...4-Count/3034789

The picture is wrong, the screws are 3/8in long

 

I only have and printed the left side design.

 

To assemble it, drop your buttons in the top case, them PCB on top. Insert screws to the bottom case so they can stick out for 1-2mm, and then close.

Attached Files


Edited by amiman99, Sat Nov 10, 2018 5:31 PM.


#164 DrVenkman OFFLINE  

DrVenkman

    River Patroller

  • 3,551 posts
  • Back off, man! I'm a scientist.
  • Location:KMBT

Posted Sat Nov 10, 2018 7:45 PM

Hi, Here is my case design,

Let's call it "Version 1", with square buttons. The zip file includes the case for left and right analog joystick positions, plus all the needed buttons.

The case can be printed w/o supports, if your printer can handle it. For best results print with supports around the edges. Print the case face down.

Slow down the 1st layer print to 20mm/s, so it stick nice to the plate and gives you nice face.

Print buttons with a BRIM around it.

 

For the screws, use #4x3/8in Pan Philips 490192 Hillman or equvalent.

https://www.lowes.co...4-Count/3034789

The picture is wrong, the screws are 3/8in long

 

I only have and printed the left side design.

 

To assemble it, drop your buttons in the top case, them PCB on top. Insert screws to the bottom case so they can stick out for 1-2mm, and then close.

 

Excellent and thank you! 

 

Couple questions:

 

1. When you say, "left side design," do you mean thumbstick on the left and fire buttons on the right?

2. Does this use the standard "short" buttons as specified in Scott's BOM, or different buttons of any sort?

3, Any caveats or tips for printing the buttons? 



#165 amiman99 OFFLINE  

amiman99

    Stargunner

  • 1,187 posts
  • Location:San Antonio, TX USA

Posted Sat Nov 10, 2018 9:08 PM

 

Excellent and thank you! 

 

Couple questions:

 

1. When you say, "left side design," do you mean thumbstick on the left and fire buttons on the right?

2. Does this use the standard "short" buttons as specified in Scott's BOM, or different buttons of any sort?

3, Any caveats or tips for printing the buttons? 

1. Left / Right: is where the analog stick is. When in doubt, you open the files in CURA you will see how they look.

2. Short buttons design, for now.

3. Use 6mm  BRIM to hold the buttons to the plate. You need 3x spr buttons, 2xFire buttons






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