wt808 Posted April 18, 2019 Share Posted April 18, 2019 I just noticed that my first print (blue one) had a layer skip. Reprinted the bottom case and will try the cables again later today (hopefully the top case is done printing by then). I actually noticed that on your close-ups which made the joystick ports look recessed. I use black spring clips around the perimeter to hold my glass build plate and hotbed together, if that's the problem. From your photos, I've compiled a list of case work items which I'll take up with foft and santosp on PM shortly, unless everyone wants to continue to see the lengthy details in this thread. (foft, I'll also address the concerns of post 147 & 148 in PM) You might want to hold off on printing for now. I also put a warning on the Thingiverse listing to not print until I correct the issues. In the future, I will make some sliced, partial prints for people to test so that you're not wasting filament and 20hrs. If you haven't thrown away what you've printed and have the tools, you can cut the port openings to fit your cable plugs and report back on the optimum opening sizes. I came up with a possible way to recess the port openings without them being big, gaping holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gandor Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 Went ahead and printed the top part again (not happy about the vent holes but will do some heat calibration to find the right temperature). And now for some pictures [emoji39] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gandor Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 calling this the “Vader” edition (keyboard lights up in red[emoji106]) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gandor Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wt808 Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) Any interest in a VESA mount to attach the unit to the back of a flat-panel monitor? Sliding bracket that attaches to the bottom cover. Edited April 20, 2019 by wt808 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wt808 Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 Revised models and a new XE-styled case are now available: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3562690 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 Damn! That almost makes me wish I didn't have the earlier big beta board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gandor Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 Very nice, I’ll have to print one when I get home tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wt808 Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 (edited) I added two "testfit" files at the end of the file list, one for the front and the other for the back of the XL-themed case. You can use these models to check port and standoff clearances and tune your printer settings without having to print the entire shell. I suggest starting with the rear panel as it's smaller and has the most changes since the last iteration. Thanks for testing! Also added an XE-style top cover with trapezoidal indentation for an XE-style logo plate. Edited May 1, 2019 by wt808 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor_x Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 so how can i get a preassembled board/case for this? I want it.... I saw a few other people ask similar questions and i havent seen an answer about availability/cost.. could you elaborate please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gandor Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 so how can i get a preassembled board/case for this? I want it.... I saw a few other people ask similar questions and i havent seen an answer about availability/cost.. could you elaborate please?Message santosp or foft for board availability.The case can be ordered via thingiverse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gandor Posted May 3, 2019 Share Posted May 3, 2019 I added two "testfit" files at the end of the file list, one for the front and the other for the back of the XL-themed case. You can use these models to check port and standoff clearances and tune your printer settings without having to print the entire shell. I suggest starting with the rear panel as it's smaller and has the most changes since the last iteration. Thanks for testing! Also added an XE-style top cover with trapezoidal indentation for an XE-style logo plate. Hi wt808, Could you make an XE-style without the round edges or make them smaller? Another option would be to make them flat at 45 degree instead of round. I printed the XE-style top cover and everything turned out great except for the round edges. Probably should have printed it with supported touching build plate but I didn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wt808 Posted May 3, 2019 Share Posted May 3, 2019 (edited) I think reducing the edge radius will help. You'll probably need supports for the top shell though, due to the slanted vent fins. I'll increase the top/bottom thickness as well. That should improve the look of the fins. I'll post when the new version is available for download. Edited May 3, 2019 by wt808 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wt808 Posted May 3, 2019 Share Posted May 3, 2019 The revised XE case is available. In the file list, look for the XE model files starting with "v111...". 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoSch Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 May I ask which application, you use to construct all these cases? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wt808 Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 Autodesk Tinkercad (#125) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoSch Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 Autodesk Tinkercad (#125) Oh, I obviously overread that. I don't get Meshmixer. I have a model up on TinkerCAD, but some correction blocks, I inserted show up in my test print. Do you know of a way to make one object from a common surface, such that this inserted block would disappear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wt808 Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 While in Tinkercad, click and drag the mouse to draw a selection box around the group of objects that you wish to combine, then click the Group button near the top right. You may have to tweak the dimensions of the correction blocks down to +/-0.05mm to blend it with the corresponding surface, then look at it again in Meshmixer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gandor Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Turned out very nice, only needed to adjust the top opening for the power switch. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wt808 Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Now I wish I had an eclaireXL too! Thanks again for printing and sharing. About how much material did you have to take off from the top of the switch opening? Is there enough clearance for all of the plugs? Are the supports above the USB and HDMI ports touching the tops of those components? If not, how much gap is there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Uploaded to a couple of online printing services (I don't have access to a 3D printer) - The costs are crazy, average was $120 for the top and bottom 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gandor Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Uploaded to a couple of online printing services (I don't have access to a 3D printer) - The costs are crazy, average was $120 for the top and bottom For just a little more you could buy your own 3D printer and print as many as you like. I printed the last one on an Ender 3 which can be found at times for $180.- 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoSch Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 (edited) Uploaded to a couple of online printing services (I don't have access to a 3D printer) - The costs are crazy, average was $120 for the top and bottom Yeah, seems like. But anybody who did some serious 3d printing knows: Good quality prints still take time. The cartridge stand posted on this forum would take me at least 16h in best quality. And you have to monitor it from time to time, because some accidents can destroy your printer (saw some youtube video, which showed a printer enveloped in a big mess of plastics). And they have risk of failed prints eating their margins. And fixing holes and errors in your design, etc. etc. But if you want to print more than one design here, buy one of the entry level printers, they are reasonably priced. Edited May 7, 2019 by JoSch 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wt808 Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 I checked with my local public library and they provide 3D-printing services for free but the print job has to be 3 hours or less. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gandor Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 I checked with my local public library and they provide 3D-printing services for free but the print job has to be 3 hours or less.The top part alone took 9+ hours at 0.28.The bottom part took almost 16 hours at 0.2. Regarding the switch opening, had to sand off just a couple of mm to make it work. See picture below. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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