blainelocklair Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 Greetings! First, hello to everyone! First post here, but been around the gaming scene for years. Nice to be a part of AtariAge. Long-time lurker, first-time poster. I have a 5200 4-port that needed (still needs) C13 and C14 replaced. Had no sound, pushed on them, got sound back right away. Ordered the replacement caps from Best. Took out the old caps with no problems. When I went to install the new ones, I burned some of the foil traces off of the bottom of the board. I am experienced with soldering, but bought a new iron recently and used it for the first time on this board. Didn't realize it was a 900 degree iron. Oops! Here's where I'm hoping to get some help. I've read the schematics from the 5200 service manual and looked online for a picture of the underside of the board. I have figured out that looking from the top, the sides of C13 and C14 closest to the cartridge port (top) are connected to 5v and the neighboring resistor. What I can't figure out is where the other two ends of the caps go. I either burned them off the underside of the board or just can't decipher it from the schematics. Can someone pop a picture of the bottom of their board and draw lines to show me where the leads from C13 and C14 should go? I may have also burned off the solder pads with the iron, so I might be forced to connect directly to the traces or even directly to the next component via bridge wire. I hate doing stuff like that, but this board is important and I don't want to just get another one if i don't have to. I'd rather do the right thing by it and fix it correctly, even if it is ugly when I'm done. I've attached a pic from a topside board marking where I read 4.93v at the 5v rail and the connection to the neighboring resistor. If I missed something there, please chime in; all help is appreciated! Thanks all! Blaine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 I've got a parts 4 port board already exposed. I can take a look at it when I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blainelocklair Posted September 7, 2018 Author Share Posted September 7, 2018 Thank you! I am very grateful for your help. Blaine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 Sorry I didn't get this done quicker. This is super easy to correct...see the pics below and they should tell you all you need to know...hehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blainelocklair Posted September 7, 2018 Author Share Posted September 7, 2018 Thank you so much! I will get out the new temp adjustable 20w-50w iron, set it for 20w, and give this a go this afternoon. I'll report back on how it turns out. Thanks again for taking the time to put these photos together for me! Blaine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blainelocklair Posted September 7, 2018 Author Share Posted September 7, 2018 -^Cro§Bow^-, Just wanted to say thanks again for the great info. I have been unable to save this board from the burns caused by the previous iron. I've wired it all up exactly as pictured, but just can't get sound out of it. I may have knocked out the nearby transistor (Q4?) when the previous iron burned the underside, or something else. Everything else on the board works, but the sound circuit seems to be shot. I'll work on sourcing another board. I hate to do that since it puts another 5200 board into the "parts only" category, but I think this one is just burned too badly. Kicking my own ass for doing this, but it won't happen again, that's for sure. Lesson learned to check the power of the soldering iron before purchasing. Again, thanks so much for your input here. I can't believe that I burned it, having repaired over 50 or so arcade games back in the 2000s and soldering car stuff together earlier this year. I promise to take better care of our beloved classic gaming hardware! Thanks,, Blaine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 If you weren't apposed to adding in an RCA jack or something similar, you can likely just tap audio from another point off the board instead. For instance just about anywhere that is tied off pin 37 from the pokey using a small uf cap for additional filtering. I usually just put in a 10uf 16v cap as a default but it doesn't even have to be that much. Positive lead from the cap off the point connected to the audio with the negative lead going to the center post of the RCA jack or whatever you might use. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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