SS Posted October 7, 2018 Share Posted October 7, 2018 (edited) Is there any way turn a drive OFF on the SDRIVE-MAX? I can see how to set it as "empty" but I think that I need to be able to turn D1 completely "off" in order to write to my real 1050. I want to use the SDRIVE as D2 in this process. I have turned off the "Boot D1" option in the CFG screen but that didn't seem to help and I cannot seem to figure out how to turn off the "Boot D0" option. I eventually gave up in frustration and used my SIO2SD instead but I would like to be able to use the SDRIVE as my primary device. Thanks for any advice because this is driving me batty. Edited October 7, 2018 by SS 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 7, 2018 Share Posted October 7, 2018 You have the diode inline yes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farb Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Have you tried selecting an empty drive slot rather than D0:? Kbr has said empty drive slots are considered "off". For example, try inserting an image in D2:, then select the empty D1: and then use your external D1:. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 to clarify you want him to select 'highlight' a different empty slot.... one tip.. remember to SAVE config once it is all empty... D0: not highlighted D1: boot off and empty slot not selected. then save. if still no go try selecting cassette but paused... this should not be the situation, but we are in the try anything to help line of though atm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS Posted October 8, 2018 Author Share Posted October 8, 2018 (edited) I had the SDRIVE-MAX and a SIO2SD both plugged into one of Lotherek's SIO splitters. I discovered last night that they do not seem to like each other, even when all of the drive slots on the SIO2SD are set to 'OFF'. I unplugged the SDRIVE from the hub and then both devices functioned normally again. I don't know why but for some reason I didn't think to try running the SDRIVE in serial directly with the 1050, bypassing the hub altogether. This may well be the solution to my problem though. I will try later tonight to see if I can write any disks with this configuration. Edited October 8, 2018 by SS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Hmm. Since I was just testing a new SDrive-MAX and saw this, I figured I'd add my Indus to the mix and you know what - I can't get the A8 to boot the Indus with the SDrive-MAX attached. EDIT: Even more interesting. My 1050 does boot without issue as D1: with the SDrive-MAX attached and no D1: mounted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 what diode are you both using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 what diode are you both using? 1N5819 for both units here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Since I first built mine, I've had some inconsistent results. Initially, I was able to use my floppies as D1: and D2:, the SDrive-Max as D3: and D4: and then an SIO2USB device connected to an RPi running RespeQt as D5: and D6: using SpartaDOSX. However, somewhere along the way, I have now deteremined I can only use the SDrive-Max with my SIO2USB devices; my floppies no longer seem to work correctly with it attached even with D1: and D2: empty. However, my floppies both work fine with the SIO2USB device. I don't know if my device has developed a flaw, or if the timing improvments along the way in the SDrive-Max code from version 0.7 (when I first built it) to version 0.9 are in some way responsible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 (edited) have you any extra 1n5's? If so try putting one on the other data line with polarity the other way around... then one on power if that didn't work... YOU SHOULD NEVER POWER THIS WITH USB CORD AT THE SAME TIME AS POWERING THE ATARI... some chinese boards do bad things like that.. I use a 9 volt battery to the power in barrel jack myself... you can bet others are using the power jack also, either with an adapter or straight up supply. I never like the idea of turning stuff on and off , on and off, and on .... etc... Edited October 9, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E474 Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Hi, I've only used version 0.9 and definitely got it to work with a 1050 as drive 1 - unfortunately I can't remember how. I think I had to mess around with tapping on the D0 button, and maybe setting an ATR as D1, then dragging D1 to D2. It was a bit fiddly - and being able to configure a drive as "Off" would be quite useful, or just a default behavior for the SDrive of not responding if the drive is empty (not sure if this would cause problems with drives being recognized after booting, guess it depends on the software)? I used a 1N5819 diode when wiring up the Arduino - but I don't have a multi-way SIO connector, so can only test with 1050s. The flip side is, it can be done, but probably only if you've used the appropriate diode. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 please also consider/remember, the sio2sd uses power from sio as some folks do the same with their sdrives... this can lead to low voltage and too much current being drawn... that doesn't work out so well on some Atari unit and their power supplies.... this is why I always tell folks to use the beefy higher current repairable Atari computer power supplies... not the wimpy 1 ampish supplies... You can beef up the 5 volt line to the sio port and put in a protection diode as well to prevent back powering of the Atari and blow the diode out like a fuse in case of overdraw... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 please also consider/remember, the sio2sd uses power from sio as some folks do the same with their sdrives... this can lead to low voltage and too much current being drawn... that doesn't work out so well on some Atari unit and their power supplies.... this is why I always tell folks to use the beefy higher current repairable Atari computer power supplies... not the wimpy 1 ampish supplies... You can beef up the 5 volt line to the sio port and put in a protection diode as well to prevent back powering of the Atari and blow the diode out like a fuse in case of overdraw... In my case, I'm using a standalone Arduino power supply that plugs into the barrel jack. I tried using an 9V batter adapter designed for the UNO but the screen drains a battery way too quickly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 (edited) I tried using only the 1050 and SDRIVE in serial without going through my SIO hub but still have no luck. The XL just cannot see the 1050 at all when the SDRIVE is connected. Honestly it's not really the biggest of deals because the SDRIVE seems to function correctly in every other way and it's not like I'm really writing all that many real floppies anyway. It's just frustrating. Edited October 10, 2018 by SS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 (edited) SS, you still haven't said or shown pictures of the diode you are using... if it interferes with everything it sounds like it is missing or the incorrect type or some other issues Edited October 10, 2018 by _The Doctor__ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 My diodes are still somewhere between China and The Netherlands..... I really need Sdrive Max to work with my 1050 so..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 (edited) No diode means no go... but there is a work around... single pass sector copier set to 1 drive.... only have one device on during the read or write. ( I mean you could use the normal methods and go switch flippy crazy bu If you have a MIO or Ultimate 1 meg or 320XE you can copy to a ramdisk. then shut off whatever, turn on whatever and copy back from the ramdisk... so many choices and ways to get around it. To make life easier put a double pole switch in so you don't have to plug and unplug your diode-less sdrive... at least until your diodes arrive.... Edited October 10, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 SS, you still haven't said or shown pictures of the diode you are using... if it interferes with everything it sounds like it is missing or the incorrect type or some other issues I had the SDRIVE built for me because I don't trust my own skills. It seems like maybe I should try to get over this limitation, though, because this is now the second time that some A8 related work that I shipped out hasn't seemed to work out in quite the way I wanted. I should learn to be comfortable in taking more risks. Anyway, here are some pictures of my board. It seems as if the diode that you are referring to may indeed be missing. Thoughts? SDRIVE board hi-res.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 Looks like the diode is covered by the orange shrink tube? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 Looks like the diode is covered by the orange shrink tube? Oh! Is that it? I didn't peel anything back to look closer. I always feel like I am going to screw something up more than it already is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 Looks like the diode is covered by the orange shrink tube? Certainly could be. Is it installed the right way if so... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 looks like it might be, still no way to know type etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 Well, to give whomever built SS’s unit the benefit of the doubt, mine is *definitely* installed the correct ‘way round and I still have developed issues using mine with physical floppies somewhere along the line. My daily-driver A8 is a 1088XEL though, which has a decidedly non-vintage Sparkfun FTD-based breakout board in it as standard equipment; that changes some of the characteristics of the SIO bus just a bit compared to a vintage Atari. If this situation isn’t explained/resolved in the next few days, I might swap my Ugly Duckling 1200XL (prior Daily Driver machine) back into the XEL’s place and see if my SDrive-Max works properly with floppies. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 (edited) I'd venture to think diode on both rx and tx might be needed to prevent issues... Looks like it's time to measure some things and or look at what it's doing with a scope.. I'd hate to think it's stressing chips on the Atari or the real drives over time..... Edited October 11, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS Posted October 12, 2018 Author Share Posted October 12, 2018 Well, to give whomever built SS’s unit the benefit of the doubt, mine is *definitely* installed the correct ‘way round and I still have developed issues Please don't hear my frustration as a complaint about the build quality of my device. It is lovely and I am grateful for the help that I got in receiving it. Part of my frustration is really geared toward myself and my reluctance to try to learn how to do these things for myself. At the very least then I might have a better first hand knowledge of what to do when various issues arise. I wonder if I try using the SDRIVE and 1050 in serial on my stock 800XL instead of this U1MB machine might help? I will try the stock machine later tonight and see what happens. (Although I know that I am probably just grasping at straws here.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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