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Connecting many classic consoles to modern TV - Revisited

HDTV Classic Consoles Atari Nintendo

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#1 TheCoolDave OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Nov 7, 2018 8:41 AM

Hi,

 

I'm in my late 40's now. I am kind of new here but, been reading for many years.  I work in IT and do the home theater thing so I know A/V stuff very well. 

 

If you have been watching my posts over the last month or so, I have been trying to get all my classic consoles together, I am going to buy a 6' X 6' Ikea shelfing ( https://www.ikea.com...0146/#/70301537) and MODIFY it so it can fit all these consoles, put a back on it(white back sheets) so you cant see through it (keep wires hidden as well). Route out a channel on the tops so I can put LED lights to light up each shelf with a central dimmer so I can adjust the brightness.  My wife is not too crazy about this idea but, she knows it's GOING TO HAPPEN.  Personally, I think it's going to look epic.

 

The lay out of the cabinets will allow me to setup  20 classic consoles (bottom level will be used for storage, controllers, etc), with another shelfing unit that I use for current consoles. The TV in this room (the layout would not allow a 2nd tv, so no CRT) is a LG 65" 4K TV.  I have about 20-25 classic consoles NOT including anything from the last 8 or so years (Wii is classic, WiiU is not... for example). I have been testing them ONE BY ONE, all controllers, games, etc and they are all in a large spreadsheet with serial numbers

 

So, rattling my brain around this one. It's a VERY, very complex setup. The first part, get everything connected so it can be switched to use each system (I have a PRONTO remote that can do that).  Then show/play on the TV with the best results. 

 

So, we have RF, Composite, S-video, component, AND HDMI.  The other major issue I have noticed. Lower res stuff over HDMI deals with a level of HDMI lag. I have read that it's close to 50ms on some res on my TV (cant replace it). 

 

Part of the plan is to modify classic systems to get AT LEAST composite out of them and PREFER S-Video, run into a few RetroTink 2X to HDMI, HDMI swich to Scaller (push everything up to 4K to assure low lag) then to the TV. We also have range, so some controllers will need extensions and other classics with bult in controllers will need to have enough cable to pull close to seating with out showing cable on the shelf. 

 

The RetroTink does not do auto switching, or does it have remote control to change sources, so I will need a few of them, one for each type of source (one for S-video, One for Composite, one for Component) and run them into a HDMI switch. I AM in the US so going to RGB is not something I want to do.

 

I was VERY, VERY  lucky to find a S-video/compsite switcher that does 12 X2 (so 12 S-video/composite inputs and 2 outputs so I could do muli-source down the line) so this should cover MOST composite / S-video devices. A very expensive device from many years ago.

 

The Questions I am really wondering... As there is possible HDMI lag, SHOULD I keep these analog (then you deal with analog issues), get them all to component video with a scaller, and keep them in analog.  Or stay with HDMI ?

 

People saying get rid of the TV and just get a CRT is  not helping. A CRT cant happen. 

 

I am sure others have taken on this type of project, not sure if anyone has done it at this scale (setting up one cabinet to run 20 consoles)

 

Any advice on this one, as I am looking for others who have tried this type of project, one of those "People who don't know history tend to repeat it" type things. 

 

Just really looking for some advice on this project !

 

Thanks in advance !

 

-Dave


Edited by TheCoolDave, Wed Nov 7, 2018 8:43 AM.


#2 -^CrožBow^- OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Nov 7, 2018 9:23 AM

Well...I'm not an expert on AV setups as you would be but this is what I was doing and what I'm doing now:

 

Originally I was using a JVC JX-s700 that provided me with the ability to use 8 s-video/composite inputs and then output them through s-video/composite monitor out. This AV switcher could also do auto Y/C separation so in theory I could just use the s-video out from the monitor port for everything. But this was producing some nasty checkerboarding from the composite outputs and just didn't look very clean. So I had a cable from each monitor output s-vid and cvbs. This worked and provided and excellent overall picture, but it did introduce lag in addition to not having the ability to force the 4:3 aspect from the HDMI output. Luckily my TV does allow me to force "normal" aspect on the HDMI so I was able to correct for that.

 

These ran into a decent but still low end CVBS & Y/C to HDMI scaler/converter. It had buttons on the front to select between s-vid and composite and 720p/1080p. I had issues with the 1080p not working reliably so I stuck with 720p output from this. The HDMI out from this would go into my Yamaha 7.1 AV receiver that has 4 HDMI inputs with one accepting ARC on it. From there I had the HDMI out from the AV receiver to the HDMI 1 on my actual TV. All other more modern consoles would plug into the other HDMI inputs on the AV receiver and the receiver also had inputs for component so I had the Wii and Genesis initially connected this way as well.

 

I then happened on an excellent deal for a newer revision of the OSSC with everything. But that meant making changes to how everything was setup:

 

I got rid of the Jvc s-700 and cvbs/y-c to hdmi converter and found a great deal on an older Extron 7SC multiple input selector. This thing allows me to use any analog input I could imagine minus RF. So cvbs, y-c, rgbs, rgbhv, and component on all of its 7 inputs. It outputs everything from a single VGA output via BNC breakout (What I'm actually using) or a standard 15pin dsub connector. I have this going into the VGA input on the OSSC and that in turn outputs HDMI line doubled to the TV now. I will admit that the picture quality isn't quite as good on some of the systems as I had using my previous setup, but then others look much better than before such as the 7800 and colecovision as examples. And it is much more versatile with all the inputs it can handle and the lag is pretty much non existent. There is still about 1.5fps of lag if the measurements I've done are correct but that is much better than the 6 - 8fps I had with my previous setup.

 

All of this does mean that I have to switch between using at least 3 remotes for everything. I have to manually switch the aspect on the TV when I switch from using the older analog devices back to 16:9 when I switch to something modern like the WiiU or PS4 etc. And I use the remote on the OSSC to swap between the inputs I'm using with it as I do have other systems connected to its component and SCART connections. 

 

All of this allows me to have about 12 - 13 consoles all connected up at the same time to swap between on the fly as needed.

 

naturally I had to AV mod all my retro stuff to at least composite and s-video where possible. Also, if I wanted to connect more consoles up I could by introducing the s700 back into the mix and have its monitor outputs connected to one of the inputs to the Extron. That would technically allow 8 more consoles to be connected to it and all feed into one of the Extron's inputs. But I honestly haven't the space or the power outlets left to do this safely. To be honest, what I have all powered up not from just a single outlet likely isn't safe. But I do use a smart eco power strip so power to the other strips that the consoles are plugged into isn't active until the AV receiver is turned on since it acts as the master. This keeps the overall current from that outlet to a minimum and removes any vampire AC usage from console AC adapters just being plugged in. Naturally I don't turn on more than 2 consoles at once since there isn't any practicality to doing so with everything going into one TV in the end.


Edited by -^CrožBow^-, Wed Nov 7, 2018 9:28 AM.


#3 blainelocklair ONLINE  

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Posted Wed Nov 7, 2018 9:48 AM

Well, I'm doing this on a smaller scale with about 10 - 12 consoles, so not as much help as you might like. I'm just using a JVC S-777 switcher then running them into a RetroTINK 2x when it arrives in a month or so. Interestingly, the JVC allows me to use either S-Video in or composite in on different inputs and send them out composite either way for now to a 39" 1080p TV. When the RetroTINK 2x comes in, I"ll be switching over to S-Video out for all since there's virtually no lag in it going out to HDMI.

 

I'd reach out to Jesse -^Cro§Bow^- here on the forums for some input on this. He's got a really nice multisystem setup. You can see his stuff on his YouTuhe channel here:

 

 

He's very knowledgeable about this stuff and could have some great solutions to help you out.

 

Blaine



#4 blainelocklair ONLINE  

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Posted Wed Nov 7, 2018 9:49 AM

And he just replied while I was tying up a post about reaching him. Thanks for chiming in, Jess!

 

Blaine



#5 TheCoolDave OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Nov 7, 2018 10:29 AM

Thanks for the thoughts !!!!

 

So, just so you know what my plans are a little more detailed.... I picked up a Kramer VS-1202YC ( http://www.kramer.ru...2yc_general.jpg) for almost nothing. I need to get it IR controlled (working on that with the company now, should not be a big deal). This is a crazy device with 12 in and 2 out. It was a VERY expensive piece. I think it's a great base for this project. 

 

This was going to be for just S-video/Composite systems. Then I have some higher end Component video switchers but, those are only 4 X 1 (4 in 1 out) and was going to follow up with a 4/5 X1 HDMI switch for the other devices.  

 

Out of each Component, S-video, and composite from the switchers there will be a retrotink 2X, IF needed, there will be a HDMI switch for HDMI consoles.  All these HDMI devices will go into a another HDMI switch (I have a few almost no lag HDMI switches), then to the TV. The KEY thing is analog cables need to be shielded and short to minimize the ghosting (I hate dealing with analog video over long distances).

 

My TV has a input with no HDCP, it should lower the HDMI lag big time.  I will go through my AVR to that input (with a HDfury device to strip HDCP with very little if any lag)

 

This would make sure all the all the analog sources are line-doubled and output to HDMI with as low lag as possible.

 

Do you think I should RE-THINK my switching/scaling thoughts ? Any other views of doing it this way ?

 

I also have a Philips TSU-9800, it's a touch screen remote with unlimited macros that you can create your own graphics for. The end goal is to have a picture of each system, click it on the remote, macros run to kick off the console, turn on and play..



#6 -^CrožBow^- OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Nov 7, 2018 3:56 PM

Yeah Kramer's are expensive. I know that my Extron originally retailed for about $3000+ when it was new in 2003. I picked it up for about $50 shipped so I couldn't complain hehe. I'm not sure you will need the HDFury in there? I haven't had any issues with HDCP on my TV and it is a newer Sony LED Bravia only about 2 years old.



#7 fiddlepaddle OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Nov 7, 2018 7:16 PM

You might not be impressed with my solution to this problem, but after many years of configuring setups and moving from place to place, and adding new game systems as I got them (and yes, even removing some as I retired from those games), plus plugging in new cables and switchboxes as technology has improved, etc...

Irritatingly also, sometimes connectors and cables just seem to go bad or self-de-crystal-clear themselves (probably oxidation over time).  I have found that when you attempt this level of complexity, there ALWAYS seems to be some new problem to debug, unless you are able to set it all up once and NEVER TOUCH ANYTHING.

Now, if you actually enjoy configuring cables and switchboxes, maybe that's OK, but I prefer spending my time playing games.

So I've finally settled on making it easy to plug and unplug cables to my TV (or, actually I do have one simple switch for composite and RF inputs).

I've ultimately reverted to ALMOST just going directly to plugging in the appropriate cable from each console to the TV each time I sit down to play a game session.  

It just saves time and aggravation that way.



#8 power OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Nov 7, 2018 7:24 PM

if you are going to ikea to buy a shelving system like that i'd recommend the billy bookshelf system over what you have chosen as backs are provided and you can mix and match the system to your needs.


Edited by power, Wed Nov 7, 2018 7:25 PM.


#9 Yakumo1975 OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Nov 7, 2018 11:38 PM

You should be using RGB for everything that supports it to be honest. I have 13 systems all connected to the same HD screen with all having the audio pumped through the 7.1 amp. I use one multi RGB automatic switch box and Framemeister. That's it. It also helps that the TV had 4 hdmi ports, 2 component (d-terminal) and 5 sets of crappy composite and 3 S-Video inputs.

Here's how mine is set up. All the following go in to the RGB switch box which is connected to the Framemeister.
Mega Drive
Master System
PC Engine
Neo Geo
Saturn

Wondermega is connected to the Framemeister via S-Video since it can't output RGB.
The Wii is connected directly to the TV via component (D-Terminal)
The PS2 is connected to the Framemeister via component (D-Terminal)
The Dreamcast and emulation PC are connected to the Framemeister via HDMI

The following are connected directly to the TV via HDMI,
Xbox One X, Super NT (SFC),Fujitsu FM Towns (vga to HDMI) and Xbox 360.

#10 TheCoolDave OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 8:26 AM

You might not be impressed with my solution to this problem, but after many years of configuring setups and moving from place to place, and adding new game systems as I got them (and yes, even removing some as I retired from those games), plus plugging in new cables and switchboxes as technology has improved, etc...

Irritatingly also, sometimes connectors and cables just seem to go bad or self-de-crystal-clear themselves (probably oxidation over time).  I have found that when you attempt this level of complexity, there ALWAYS seems to be some new problem to debug, unless you are able to set it all up once and NEVER TOUCH ANYTHING.

Now, if you actually enjoy configuring cables and switchboxes, maybe that's OK, but I prefer spending my time playing games.

So I've finally settled on making it easy to plug and unplug cables to my TV (or, actually I do have one simple switch for composite and RF inputs).

I've ultimately reverted to ALMOST just going directly to plugging in the appropriate cable from each console to the TV each time I sit down to play a game session.  

It just saves time and aggravation that way.

 

The WHOLE point of this project is to make each system playable, right now they are just sitting in a empty room after my testing.  Everything will be strapped down, wired correctly, clean and neat. I have bad case of OCD, so when I comes to how it works, it will be perfect or it wont happen.  Every process has been thought about.

 

When finished (project could take a year+ as I have mod a LOT of system), You will walk in in the room, pick up a remote. Turn system on (this turns on the TV, Surround sound system), on a touch screen, you will select gaming, then you will see pictures of each system.  You click the image of the system, the macros turn everything on, then all you need to do is put in a cart and hit the power button on the console to play.  To be honest with you, it will not be ANY easier to play these systems.

 

I agree, I want to play, it's why it could so long because with my whole life, there is a balance, life, work, kids, wife and gaming.  There is always time made for gaming, ALWAYS. 

 

As for moving ? You kidding ?   Besides ALWAYS having 4-6 consoles setup (I currently have a Xbox One X, PS4,. Xbox 360, WiiU and a Retron 5 setup), it's been like that every where I have lived and moved. I also have 5 full size arcade machines, try moving those house to house ! 

 

We own a home, we have lived here 10 years, now, It's why it's come to mind to finally take on this project I have been DREAMING about for 15 years now.

 

Another note: To move systems or changing.  This would only be in modern systems, AKA, HDMI based.  There will be 2 setups for gaming. One that has 20 consoles, that should not change too much as they are older/classic.  The other one will have 5 systems, this is just for MODERN systems designed for 1080p to 4K with a correct switch and direct feed to the A/V reviver.  These can be changed or removed. 

 

Even the 20 input cab will be able to do HDMI but, it will only be setup for 1080p, not any higher. The base TV is a 4K TV, the Xbox one X looks epic so those systems need to stay on a different switch.

 

if you are going to ikea to buy a shelving system like that i'd recommend the billy bookshelf system over what you have chosen as backs are provided and you can mix and match the system to your needs.

 

I looked over them, crap I have been looking over TONS of sites for a solution to this for years. I don't have a full workshop or I would build something myself.  I noticed size, 5 cubes by 5 cubes (25 blocks also 13" deep, the Billy is only 11"), then the way it's built, it's pre-drilled holes with pegs in them. I will re-drill holes, make one side 11" (NES, SNES, etc) and as big as 16" in the center (for the BIGGER systems like ColecoVision or 5200). Most systems are around 11-12" so this should work out perfectly. I want each system in a cube, with them being lit up.  Not a bunch of systems on a shelf or systems overhanging on the edge.

 

The bottom level will stay the way it is, as I will use the iKea shelfs and baskets for controllers/games/accessories. To get a sheet to cover the back, a 4 X8 sheet from Home depot is only $13. This is white semi gloss that would match perfectly with the finish on the cube. 

 

The old holes will be used with some wood filler, lightly sanded and touch up white paint. 

 

 

 

You should be using RGB for everything that supports it to be honest. I have 13 systems all connected to the same HD screen with all having the audio pumped through the 7.1 amp. I use one multi RGB automatic switch box and Framemeister. That's it. It also helps that the TV had 4 hdmi ports, 2 component (d-terminal) and 5 sets of crappy composite and 3 S-Video inputs.

Here's how mine is set up. All the following go in to the RGB switch box which is connected to the Framemeister.
Mega Drive
Master System
PC Engine
Neo Geo
Saturn

Wondermega is connected to the Framemeister via S-Video since it can't output RGB.
The Wii is connected directly to the TV via component (D-Terminal)
The PS2 is connected to the Framemeister via component (D-Terminal)
The Dreamcast and emulation PC are connected to the Framemeister via HDMI

The following are connected directly to the TV via HDMI,
Xbox One X, Super NT (SFC),Fujitsu FM Towns (vga to HDMI) and Xbox 360.

 

As I would agree, I am in the US, RGB is not easy to work with, I have been watching a lot of "My life in gaming" on youtube, and how they talk about RGB and scart cables. In the US this is a lot to come by. I have to pretty much trash what I have to do this and it adds a complexity on the whole thing never mind the huge cost. 

 

I am going to stick with S-video or higher for systems because of this.   I really thought about the Framemeister or the OSCC. but for the cost factor, 3 RetroTinx 2X will do as good as a job (I have been reading reviews) for my needs. 


Edited by TheCoolDave, Thu Nov 8, 2018 8:42 AM.


#11 Yakumo1975 OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 8:54 AM

 

As I would agree, I am in the US, RGB is not easy to work with, I 

I'm in Japan which is basically the same as the US when it comes to RGB.  It may seem like a daunting process but I can guarantee you'll enjoy it much more that S-Video.  As for the my life in gaming guys, they are not that well informed when it comes to RGB.  I've seen their videos and some of the points they make are not relevant or just wrong.  I was born in the UK and used RGB there from 1988 to 1998 before leaving to Japan.  Man, was I saddened when I found out RGB wasn't a thing over here.  Took me a good few years before I got back in to it at around 2003.



#12 HoshiChiri OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 9:11 AM

 

I looked over them, crap I have been looking over TONS of sites for a solution to this for years. I don't have a full workshop or I would build something myself.  I noticed size, 5 cubes by 5 cubes (25 blocks also 13" deep, the Billy is only 11"), then the way it's built, it's pre-drilled holes with pegs in them. I will re-drill holes, make one side 11" (NES, SNES, etc) and as big as 16" in the center (for the BIGGER systems like ColecoVision or 5200). Most systems are around 11-12" so this should work out perfectly. I want each system in a cube, with them being lit up.  Not a bunch of systems on a shelf or systems overhanging on the edge.

 

The bottom level will stay the way it is, as I will use the iKea shelfs and baskets for controllers/games/accessories. To get a sheet to cover the back, a 4 X8 sheet from Home depot is only $13. This is white semi gloss that would match perfectly with the finish on the cube. 

 

The old holes will be used with some wood filler, lightly sanded and touch up white paint. 

 

That's an awful lot of work when you could just get the Besta line instead. https://www.ikea.com...ing_room/11794/

 

I have a Besta bookcase- it has many pros for this kind of thing:

-comes with backing

-available in 7 7/8" and 15 3/4" deep frames, depending on if you're storing media or consoles

-frames are lined with pegholes  spaced 1" apart for the whole of the piece, and no fixed shelves to work around

-shelves sold separately if you need to add more

- doors & drawers available, as well as felt baskets designed to fit the units (for cables/controllers)

 

 The main issue I see for you is the shelf width is 22", so you'd have to add a vertical piece if you don't want two systems sharing a shelf. Maybe give it a look-over, it could save you a lot of modding time.

 

As far as the actual AV end goes, I can't offer much help as I went with convenience over pristine video in my current setup & didn't do any upscaling (I have a CRT in storage I hope to bring out at some point when I can devote more space to my setup.) But I have learned this- every TV reacts differently to the various upscalers & switchers out there, so just take your time. If you try to make it perfect in one go, you'll just frustrate yourself to no end trying to do all your troubleshooting. Also, don't cheap out on your surge protectors & only plug one into each wall outlet, lest your overload the circuit & start a fire.



#13 TheCoolDave OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 9:54 AM

 

That's an awful lot of work when you could just get the Besta line instead. https://www.ikea.com...ing_room/11794/

 

I have a Besta bookcase- it has many pros for this kind of thing:

-comes with backing

-available in 7 7/8" and 15 3/4" deep frames, depending on if you're storing media or consoles

-frames are lined with pegholes  spaced 1" apart for the whole of the piece, and no fixed shelves to work around

-shelves sold separately if you need to add more

- doors & drawers available, as well as felt baskets designed to fit the units (for cables/controllers)

 

 The main issue I see for you is the shelf width is 22", so you'd have to add a vertical piece if you don't want two systems sharing a shelf. Maybe give it a look-over, it could save you a lot of modding time.

 

As far as the actual AV end goes, I can't offer much help as I went with convenience over pristine video in my current setup & didn't do any upscaling (I have a CRT in storage I hope to bring out at some point when I can devote more space to my setup.) But I have learned this- every TV reacts differently to the various upscalers & switchers out there, so just take your time. If you try to make it perfect in one go, you'll just frustrate yourself to no end trying to do all your troubleshooting. Also, don't cheap out on your surge protectors & only plug one into each wall outlet, lest your overload the circuit & start a fire.

 

How many systems are you setting up on that ? I looked over it and it's at a huge expense too. I DO like the look over it though.  I know it's a lot of work but, it's going to be a passion of love because what it's going to be.  I really want to do this to make it MINE. Not what Ikea says it is.  Remember, I am trying to setup 20 consoles in one cab, The 5 X5 storage boxes will provide me what I want (well 5X4 for consoles and 5X1 on the bottom for storage).  AND with just moving holes over, it will look like it came from the factory like that. 

 

The end goal is to have it look a professionally made cab that fits perfect. I am pretty sure I can achieve it with this cab, as long as the measurements are perfect and dead on, the way I plan on doing it, I don't foresee any issues at all here. 

 

Trust me, this has been rattling around in my brain for the last 3-4 months on THIS cab.

 

The wiring for the most part has been planned out, I worked at a very high end home theater store when I was younger and over the years I have setup 100's of home theaters for people. Trust me, I know the wiring pretty well.  It's just taking these older 240i systems and putting to modern TVs, I wanted to see what people are really doing, as there is a bunch of options on this subject.

 

As i said above, I have been searching for an option for this for YEARS...


Edited by TheCoolDave, Thu Nov 8, 2018 9:59 AM.


#14 TheCoolDave OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 10:10 AM

I'm in Japan which is basically the same as the US when it comes to RGB.  It may seem like a daunting process but I can guarantee you'll enjoy it much more that S-Video.  As for the my life in gaming guys, they are not that well informed when it comes to RGB.  I've seen their videos and some of the points they make are not relevant or just wrong.  I was born in the UK and used RGB there from 1988 to 1998 before leaving to Japan.  Man, was I saddened when I found out RGB wasn't a thing over here.  Took me a good few years before I got back in to it at around 2003.

 

Ok, I'll bite. As besides a large scale S-Video switch and some other stuff I already have, I don't have a TON of money invested in the wires or switchers right now. Nor have I even touched a system with a soddering iron YET>

 

Compatibility across the board is important AND I don't want ANY part of scart, cables or switchers(I just don't like the format). In the US, I don't want to touch them.  So A true affordable option here, to have AT LEAST 12-15 systems switching in RGB. 

 

Is there any option for this to keep it all reasonable cost for a switching system that can be IR controlled and assuming your talking about running everything into a Framemeister (a kind of hard to get $350+ device) that also can be IR controlled (I assume for modes, so each system can be tweaked in their own mode ?) and all be dropped to HDMI with almost 0 lag ?

 

LAG is one of my big worries with going into a modern TV, as a HDMI port alone could add 20-50ms, I don't want any more added.

 

Am I looking that this right ?

 

I know and have seen the side by side between S-Video and RGB, is the cost difference worth it in the long run or should I keep with the route I am looking.  Remember, I have to start all over for switching and cables and moding thoughts.


Edited by TheCoolDave, Thu Nov 8, 2018 10:28 AM.


#15 TheCoolDave OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 11:39 AM

Yeah Kramer's are expensive. I know that my Extron originally retailed for about $3000+ when it was new in 2003. I picked it up for about $50 shipped so I couldn't complain hehe. I'm not sure you will need the HDFury in there? I haven't had any issues with HDCP on my TV and it is a newer Sony LED Bravia only about 2 years old.

 

I know, Nice...huh ? Love stealing a $3500 device for $50, when even though it's 10 years later it works EXACTLY for what I am looking for today :)

 

The TV that is connected is also a home theater setup, where movies, TV and other content is viewed.  So a HDfury device would be needed on a port that does not have HDCP or some video content might not be watchable. 

 

HDCP is the nightmare of the digital world... It's also a major part why there is HDMI lag...



#16 -^CrožBow^- OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 1:01 PM

I know the HDFury well. We actually had to purchase one from China for a customer because we had to capture their cable video feed through a haupage to then pipe it out to 5 other TVs via CAT6. But I'd never thought to need one for my AV setup. I guess because I'm not using anything that matters that doesn't have HDCP on it. The classic consoles don't matter in this case.



#17 HoshiChiri OFFLINE  

HoshiChiri

    Stargunner

  • 1,219 posts
  • Location:WA state

Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 7:37 PM

 

How many systems are you setting up on that ? I looked over it and it's at a huge expense too. I DO like the look over it though.  I know it's a lot of work but, it's going to be a passion of love because what it's going to be.  I really want to do this to make it MINE. Not what Ikea says it is.  Remember, I am trying to setup 20 consoles in one cab, The 5 X5 storage boxes will provide me what I want (well 5X4 for consoles and 5X1 on the bottom for storage).  AND with just moving holes over, it will look like it came from the factory like that. 

 

My besta is being used largely for media storage. The overall unit is a double-wide tall bookshelf, so something like 80"x46". It holds well over 1,000 DVDs (I started pairing down before I ever filled it.). Right now the top quarter is pre-NES stuff, so that's a space about 20" tall by 46" deep holding 6 consoles, all the games, a box for a pong console (currently off for repair), videogame related screwdrivers, a DVD burner, and a couple empty boxes slated for overflow games later. Removing all else I'd say the space could hold 6-12 consoles, depending on size (my model 1 Channel F, for example, takes up most of a shelf on its own).

 

I'm not necessarily expecting a change over, just an alternate option. I'm always surprised at the lack of attention the besta line gets when it's so versatile.



#18 TheCoolDave OFFLINE  

TheCoolDave

    Star Raider

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  • 94 posts

Posted Thu Nov 8, 2018 8:14 PM

 

My besta is being used largely for media storage. The overall unit is a double-wide tall bookshelf, so something like 80"x46". It holds well over 1,000 DVDs (I started pairing down before I ever filled it.). Right now the top quarter is pre-NES stuff, so that's a space about 20" tall by 46" deep holding 6 consoles, all the games, a box for a pong console (currently off for repair), videogame related screwdrivers, a DVD burner, and a couple empty boxes slated for overflow games later. Removing all else I'd say the space could hold 6-12 consoles, depending on size (my model 1 Channel F, for example, takes up most of a shelf on its own).

 

I'm not necessarily expecting a change over, just an alternate option. I'm always surprised at the lack of attention the besta line gets when it's so versatile.

 

Ok, thanks !  Trust me, I did look over it and I DO like the look of it for console type storage but, I think cost vs. limitations, what I chose would give me the best look and bang for my dollar.

 

The games are a whole different things.  My wife is already fighting me against the cabinet.  So the games (my collection) will have to go in another room. I need to remember that we live here and this is kind of a 2nd family room. The room with the bigger TV so it's used for movies. I cant let the room be taken over more than I am with this project !  In my office/arcade machine room, I have a walk in closet, and it has some shelfing in there, I started to use it for game storage but, I KNOW I will need more.  It's something I will think about deeper after this project is done. I will be doubling up games but, it will be resolved/inventoried later (yes, I spreadsheet is planned for EVERY system). I do have some very affordable options for this that I am looking into (this wont be a crazy expensive thing to do)

 

So, I setup, I am getting this cabinet, and I plan on putting 20 consoles on it, NOT including anything newer than the 360/wiiU. So the Wii and older consoles will go on that.

 

So I have been creating a spreadsheet with all the consoles, with details, model/serial, and problems if any, with noted "to do" and parts needed for each console.  So here I am, I am well over 20 consoles.  So now I have to decide on consoles that I wont setup.  I could SKIP the lowest level and instead of a clean spot to hold controllers and some games. I could fill it up with consoles (no I am not going to do that)

 

And no this is not duplicate systems, that I have a bunch of, that will be putting up for sale soon to help fund this project.

 

Sigh, always something, isn't it ?


Edited by TheCoolDave, Thu Nov 8, 2018 8:25 PM.


#19 HoshiChiri OFFLINE  

HoshiChiri

    Stargunner

  • 1,219 posts
  • Location:WA state

Posted Fri Nov 9, 2018 7:57 AM

 

Ok, thanks !  Trust me, I did look over it and I DO like the look of it for console type storage but, I think cost vs. limitations, what I chose would give me the best look and bang for my dollar.

 

The games are a whole different things.  My wife is already fighting me against the cabinet.  So the games (my collection) will have to go in another room. I need to remember that we live here and this is kind of a 2nd family room. The room with the bigger TV so it's used for movies. I cant let the room be taken over more than I am with this project !  In my office/arcade machine room, I have a walk in closet, and it has some shelfing in there, I started to use it for game storage but, I KNOW I will need more.  It's something I will think about deeper after this project is done. I will be doubling up games but, it will be resolved/inventoried later (yes, I spreadsheet is planned for EVERY system). I do have some very affordable options for this that I am looking into (this wont be a crazy expensive thing to do)

 

 

One thing that I've found helps immensely with game storage: front-to-back rows instead of library style. Since most shelving is far deeper than the actual games are, turning the storage 180 degrees helps maximize the space far better- not to mention when paired with some good storage boxes or drawers is a lot easier to access the games then doubled up library rows.

 

I don't currently have the luxury of any sort of dedicated media space, so my collection has to fit in my bedroom. I've gotten pretty darn good at conserving space! 



#20 GoldenWheels OFFLINE  

GoldenWheels

    Stargunner

  • 1,793 posts
  • Location:Connecticut

Posted Fri Nov 9, 2018 8:01 AM

With deeper shelves holding games, I cut a cleat of cheap lumber and paint it to match, and screw them down on the shelf right where it will stop X gaming systems games from pushing back any farther. Then I hide long term storage stuff BEHIND the games...extra controllers, cords, accessories for that game system. 



#21 TheCoolDave OFFLINE  

TheCoolDave

    Star Raider

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Posted Fri Nov 9, 2018 8:43 AM

With deeper shelves holding games, I cut a cleat of cheap lumber and paint it to match, and screw them down on the shelf right where it will stop X gaming systems games from pushing back any farther. Then I hide long term storage stuff BEHIND the games...extra controllers, cords, accessories for that game system. 

 

It's an idea..  Right now, I have a walk in closet, it has wire shelfs on it, as you can think, it's not good for games but, it's doing the job now. 

 

I am thinking about 1 or 2 of these, on the wall in the closet.

 

https://www.amazon.c...=nav_ya_signin?

 

Seems like a cheap, item that will do the job.



#22 -^CrožBow^- OFFLINE  

-^CrožBow^-

    Quadrunner

  • 6,461 posts
  • Collector of Fine Atari and Sega Antiquities!
  • Location:Ivory Tower, Fantasia (Oklahoma)

Posted Fri Nov 9, 2018 12:13 PM

 

It's an idea..  Right now, I have a walk in closet, it has wire shelfs on it, as you can think, it's not good for games but, it's doing the job now. 

 

I am thinking about 1 or 2 of these, on the wall in the closet.

 

https://www.amazon.c...=nav_ya_signin?

 

Seems like a cheap, item that will do the job.

 

I actually was using one of those in my game room before I modified the large black display case that I use there now. Make sure you put that anchor bracket on it to attach it to the wall. It is pretty thin media case overall. I want to say it was only like like 4 or so inches deep and the base was just under 12inches. As a result, it could tip over easily if not secured down to the backwall. 

 

I actually was quite pleased with the large display case I'm using because I only paid $100 for it from a criagslist ad and I actually have it turned upside down. I did this because the bottom was hollow. I figured since the shelfs use standard rail brackets, that I could install them upside down, flip the whole thing over, have the top of the case now be the bottom, and then I bought some cabinet wood, cut it and added hinges so that the bottom of the case now at the top, provides some excellent storage! It is a bear to get to since it is up high and I have stuff up there, but still nice to have it available all the same.


Edited by -^CrožBow^-, Fri Nov 9, 2018 12:14 PM.


#23 HoshiChiri OFFLINE  

HoshiChiri

    Stargunner

  • 1,219 posts
  • Location:WA state

Posted Sat Nov 10, 2018 11:10 AM

 

It's an idea..  Right now, I have a walk in closet, it has wire shelfs on it, as you can think, it's not good for games but, it's doing the job now. 

 

I am thinking about 1 or 2 of these, on the wall in the closet.

 

https://www.amazon.c...=nav_ya_signin?

 

Seems like a cheap, item that will do the job.

 

I've never gone with Altantic, but I know people who have- you really have to watch the weight, the shelves tend to bow when fully laden.

 

My Sauder tower has held up quite well, but it's a dinky lil' thing (only about 3 feet tall, 1 foot wide). No idea if a bigger one would have the same bowing issues or not.



#24 TheCoolDave OFFLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 3:09 PM

Well, I'm doing this on a smaller scale with about 10 - 12 consoles, so not as much help as you might like. I'm just using a JVC S-777 switcher then running them into a RetroTINK 2x when it arrives in a month or so. Interestingly, the JVC allows me to use either S-Video in or composite in on different inputs and send them out composite either way for now to a 39" 1080p TV. When the RetroTINK 2x comes in, I"ll be switching over to S-Video out for all since there's virtually no lag in it going out to HDMI.

 

I'd reach out to Jesse -^Cro§Bow^- here on the forums for some input on this. He's got a really nice multisystem setup. You can see his stuff on his YouTuhe channel here:

 

 

He's very knowledgeable about this stuff and could have some great solutions to help you out.

 

Blaine

 

Let me know when you get your RetroTink 2x... As I wont be ordering them for a little bit, I want to know how well they work and some details on it..



#25 blainelocklair ONLINE  

blainelocklair

    Star Raider

  • 88 posts
  • Location:Summerville, SC

Posted Yesterday, 3:37 PM

I will. I ordered mine on October 8, 2018. According to their website, it should ship in November 2018 or December 2018. Not one of those things one gets in a hurry, but it's so niche that it's worth the wait. Also not the most "friendly" website. It clearly states not to email about the status of your order because it will be ignored in lieu of working on the units instead. It says if you get PayPal confirmation, they have received your order and no communication will come from them until the unit ships. I've seen them out there on YouTube, so I know it's legit, and am willing to deal with the nuances to get something very useful.

 

I'll let you know when it comes in, I get it going, and what results come of it. I think it will be great.

 

Blaine







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