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New desktop arcade controllers


Curt Vendel

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This is the first of the new Awecades.com desktop arcade controllers. This is the Proline Arcade 78.

 

It is an Atari 7800 compatible controller, with DB9 cable. A Proline Arcade 26 is also coming with joystick, single button and paddle controller. I am working on a Proline 5200 version and then all of these are also available in USB versions. These will go on sale by the end of the week...

 

post-23-0-29156100-1544567461_thumb.jpeg

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Allan,

 

Let me see what I can do, I have the buttons in a really good sweet spot, perhaps I could mount the paddle in the center below the left fire button, that would allow left/right players to access it and still be ergonomic and allow fire button access... I think that should work. I bought a lot of extra sheets of aluminum so I can do some fine tuning...

 

 

 

Please consider making a 7800 version with a paddle controller. You can't forget games like 7800 Circus Atari.

 

Allan

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I'm quite interesting in getting one of these. I really like the look of this controller. It still bothers me though that the screws are always showing on these things on the top. Is it not possible to use carriage bolts instead to at least have a smooth dome instead of the screws that can catch and rub your skin on your hand and collect dust? If the controller were designed to be take apart from the bottom, then carriage lag type bolts could be used like arcade control panels did.

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I'm quite interesting in getting one of these. I really like the look of this controller. It still bothers me though that the screws are always showing on these things on the top. Is it not possible to use carriage bolts instead to at least have a smooth dome instead of the screws that can catch and rub your skin on your hand and collect dust? If the controller were designed to be take apart from the bottom, then carriage lag type bolts could be used like arcade control panels did.

Actually I'm trying to source the right size carriage bolts, otherwise, at least on the joystick I'll use flat head bolts and place the laminate over them so they won't show. On the edges, I could do the same, so on the shipping units you won't see anything on the top panel.

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And how much will it cost?

Looks heavy,so shipping to germany will be expensive

$79.99 They have some good weight, but they are under 3lbs and the shipping boxes are 12"x10"x6" so they won't be overly big and the dimensional weight should be low enough. You'll be able to check on the webstore this weekend, I have it linked into the UP Postal Service shipping calculator, so it'll tell you the cost for shipping based on the product and destination.

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Curt I am curious on your plans for the self centering analog sticks . What kind are they ? Will they work 100 percent with all games ?

5200 games... I will let you know, there is not reason it won't but testing to make sure is whats best. (I could use a playtester.... seriously, if someone who is BIG on 5200, has a large selection of games and its willing to put the controller through its paces. Please PM me.)

Right now the 2600 and 7800 versions will be shipping first, the 5200 Jan 1st week once I've made the cutting template and finish things.

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$79.99 They have some good weight, but they are under 3lbs and the shipping boxes are 12"x10"x6" so they won't be overly big and the dimensional weight should be low enough. You'll be able to check on the webstore this weekend, I have it linked into the UP Postal Service shipping calculator, so it'll tell you the cost for shipping based on the product and destination.

 

Looks great. Can you tell us about the gate type? 4-way, 8-way, easy-twist-switchable, switchable by unscrewing, octagonal? Thanks!

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Looks great. Can you tell us about the gate type? 4-way, 8-way, easy-twist-switchable, switchable by unscrewing, octagonal? Thanks!

I'm using the Sanwa 4 & 8 way joysticks, set to 8 way by default. You can open the case and change if you want to 4 way, the guide has 4 tabs on it, just remove it and turn it to the 4 way position and click it back in place. The joysticks are very study, have good travel and sold switches. I've purposely hit a few of the sticks multiple times with a metal rod to force a failure and they all have kept working so they should stand up to aggressive long term usage. I would've liked to have used Happ ones but the depth was going to be an issue and the cost of the Happ sticks is high and would've push the overal product cost much higher on these which I didn't feel it was justified. I want to make sure that I deliver a solid and reliable product to everyone.

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5200 games... I will let you know, there is not reason it won't but testing to make sure is whats best. (I could use a playtester.... seriously, if someone who is BIG on 5200, has a large selection of games and its willing to put the controller through its paces. Please PM me.)

Right now the 2600 and 7800 versions will be shipping first, the 5200 Jan 1st week once I've made the cutting template and finish things.

AtariBrain has volunteered to test the 5200 desktop arcade controllers. So I'll get him setup sometime next week and then he can give it a thorough testing and give feedback to everyone.

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Holy cow that looks awesome! I'm sure it'll sell like hotcakes, and I'm definitely down to buy a Proline Arcade 26 when they come out. A good 2600 arcade stick with an integrated paddle controller has been a dream of mine for a long while.

 

The only suggestion I would add would be to use an octagonal restrictor plate on the Sanwa joystick instead of the default square/diamond plate. It would up the production cost by a dollar or two but the octagonal plates work great for both 8-way and 4-way games with no need to open the case to adjust the plate between games.

Edited by Jin
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Actually I'm trying to source the right size carriage bolts, otherwise, at least on the joystick I'll use flat head bolts and place the laminate over them so they won't show. On the edges, I could do the same, so on the shipping units you won't see anything on the top panel.

 

 

Curt, maybe consider centering the branding there so none of the letters or numbers come anywhere close to those screws...

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