My console looks like it's been modified?

[Tommatwalker]

Hi all,

 

Thanks for welcoming me in and apologies for my lack of knowledge on these consoles but I have just bought my first one recently. When I looked it over and looked online at setup guides I discovered that mine does not have the channel setting switch on the bottom (there is a slot but no switch). Upon further investigation I discovered that internally it looks like someone has fitted some kind of signal booster with a standard TV aerial plug on it. My question is, is this a standard modification and are there any changes that I need to make to how I connect her up?

 

I can send pictures tonight if required. I'm in a hotel this week and unfortunately can't get to the settings of the TV to re tune it to allow me to play so I'll try again on Friday!

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Tom

[Keatah]

Sounds like an a/v mod. Post some pics.

[Tommatwalker]

Hi all pictures attached as requested.

[Hannacek]

The early Atari 2600s had no channel select switch, so it was fixed on one channel (either 2 or 3) and you could not change it. Then after the first year or so, Atari added a channel select switch. It was common for Atari to mix and match whatever parts they had. So they probably had a bunch of old 2600 boards with no channel select switch, and ran out of the old cases, so they stuck the old boards in a new case with a slot to select the channel. That is why you can have a factory original 2600 with no channel select switch, but a slot for one. You could also have someone at some point over the last 40 years switch the board into a different case.

 

Everything looks legitimate in your 2600. It is possible the rf modulator broke at some point back in the 80's, and the original owner had it replaced. The rf modulator has a sticker that says 8127. Usually this means the modulator was manufactured in the 27th week of the year 81. Your console looks like a heavy sixer, which were only made in 1977-1978.

 

So it looks like someone got it repaired around 1981 or 1982, and they put in a new rf modulator.

 

If you have a crt tv, it would be best to hook the Atari up to that to make sure it works. It would also be a good idea to hook it up to a VCR if you don't have a crt. Once you know it works, you can try to connect it to a modern flat screen TV. But, a lot of times old consoles like the 2600 have a signal that is too weak for a modern TV, so it is not a good idea to test a console that you don't know if it works on a modern TV.

 

If you are still having problems, more pictures of the outside case, the underside of the circuit board, and if you can open up the metal can and take pictures of both sides of that board, would help.

Edited December 12, 2018 by Hannacek

[Tommatwalker]

This is fantastic information, thanks very much for this. I'll try it through a CRT TV if I can find one but I've got a VCR at home somewhere I'll try and use.

[Hannacek]

Even if the tape mechanism of the VCR is broken, the rf input is almost always working, so any VCR will work. It's worth the $10 to buy a VCR at a thrift store if you don't have one.

 

You really need to get an RCA Coax adapter. You can find them on Amazon, ebay, anywhere online. The adapter replaces the rf switchbox, and greatly improves the video quality.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Coax-F-Type-Male-to-RCA-Female-Adapter/392105379288?hash=item5b4b4d45d8:g:0AUAAOSwPTlb1dsh:rk:7:pf:0

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Straight-Connector-Coaxial-Adapter/dp/B00LUS30QM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=S7725CBNCDJ7FE28J1Y7

Edited December 12, 2018 by Hannacek

[Tommatwalker]

Ah I got one of them on eBay, will it really make that much difference? Impressive! Looks like I'm going thrift store diving for a VCR this weekend then!

[Hannacek]

Using the RCA Coax adapter will either get you the same or better video quality. Not having to use the rf switch box is one less thing to worry about. The switchbox can decrease the video quality. It's worth the few dollars to get the adapter.

 

With old VCRs, often the belts and motors break over the years. If you are not concerned with playing tapes, then any VCR that powers on and appears to be in good condition should work great for connecting video game consoles. The moving parts that play tapes are usually the only parts of a VCR that would break.

[InactiveX]

Yeah I'm glad I never junked my VCR from BitD. It's from the period when the last VCRs were being designed, and handles any old console or computer that I might plug in and display on my LCD.

[Tommatwalker]

Thanks again for all this information guys!

 

Quick update, I finally got home and tried to manually tune my TV to the signal of the Atari and got a very vague glimpse of a signal. So good new the console does work! I'll root out a VCR over the xmas break and then I can really get down to playing!

 

Thanks again guys

 

Tom

[InactiveX]

Sounds promising.

 

Hannacek already mentioned that you may have a "heavy sixer". I can perhaps be seen in the tell-tale curved lip on the front of the case (not sure). If you didn't know, that is a relatively uncommon version of the 2600. Something to think about before you attempt any mods, maybe.

 

Definitely try a VCR or another display next.

Edited December 18, 2018 by InactiveX

[Tommatwalker]

Thanks for this info, I certainly won't be undertaking any mods lightly (Always seems a shame to mod anything this old anyway!)

 

I seem to have lucked out with my eBay purchase then!

 

Anybody know if there is a way to tell from the serial number how old the device is? Would be interesting!

 

Thanks

 

Tom

[Shawn]

Can anyone confirm that is an actualy Atari brand RF box in his machine or is it 3rd party? I've never seen that exact RF inside an Atari that I recall. The OAK brand pcb it's on is one many including Atari used so I'm really curious.

[alex_79]

It's an original part. And it would've been useful to mention that the console in question is PAL.

To the OP: it's very important to specify what region you're from and where you bought the console when asking technical questions. The consoles had to comply to the different TV standards used in different countries, so they are not all the same.


The part number CX2600U indicates that's a PAL-I console (for UK and Ireland). I have a PAL-I heavy sixer with the exact same RF modulator.

PAL-I consoles modulate on UHF frequency, channel 36 and they don't have the channel select switch (this is true for all models, including 4-switch and Junior).
PAL-B versions (used in the rest of Europe and Australia), modulate on VHF, and they have a switch to select between channel 3 or 4.


The RCA to F-connector coax adapter suggested in some of the replies above is useless in Europe or Australia, as the Belling-Lee connector (often referred to IEC coax connector) is the standard for TV aerial there, NOT the F-connector.
Moreover it was the standard already in the 70s, so, apart for some of the very early 6-switch models, the consoles came already fitted with the right connector and can be plugged directly in the TV aerial socket, without any switchbox or adapter.

In the unlikely case of one of those early models with rca plug, you can use a RCA to IEC adapter, like this one:

https://shop.screenlink.co.uk/rca-phono-socket-to-coax-iec-plug-adaptor

Or replace the plug, or the entire cable.

[Tommatwalker]

Thanks again for this, it is a PAL device (or at least I bought it in the UK so I assume it is?)

 

When you say part number do you mean serial number or part number on the modulator?

 

Thanks for all the help this is all very interesting (I'm an engineer by trade so any information in this gets my nerd juices tingling)

 

Tom

[Hannacek]

Thanks for this info, I certainly won't be undertaking any mods lightly (Always seems a shame to mod anything this old anyway!)

 

I seem to have lucked out with my eBay purchase then!

 

Anybody know if there is a way to tell from the serial number how old the device is? Would be interesting!

 

Thanks

 

Tom

 

People on Atari Age assume you have an NTSC console, unless you specify otherwise.

 

You never want to mod a heavy sixer. If you have to do a mod, then do it on one of the common 4 switch models. A heavy sixer is going to have the best picture quality of any model 2600, so it is really a waste to mod that.

 

The chips all have date codes of when the chips were manufactured. If you open up the metal can, you will get to see the main board (see picture below). The 3 chips on this board say 8045, 8052, 8051. These are all from the last few weeks of 1980. It is possible these chips sat in a warehouse for a year or two before being installed in a console, but usually when multiple chips have the same date (within a few weeks), it means that was around the date the console was manufactured. Usually it means these chips only sat around for a few weeks before being installed in a console.

 

On your console, the rf modulator says it is from 1981, but it could have been replaced, and the chips could also be replaced, so its difficult to say with certainty the age of a circuit board if components have been replaced. But if you know what you are looking at, there are signs when components have been replaced, as opposed to being the original components. There could also be a date code somewhere on the console. What does that yellow paper taped to the metal can say? Usually on the heavy sixers there is a paper taped to the metal can with date codes of when various steps and tests took place during manufacturing.

 

Edited December 18, 2018 by Hannacek

[Tommatwalker]

Thanks for that, the piece of yellow paper doesn't have anything written on it as far as I can remember but I'll have a look at it when I get home just in case there is something written on the back.

 

I can't see anything else on the circuit board that looks like its been modified/replaced to me but I haven't opened the can up yet. Is it just screwed together or is it sealed in some way?

 

Looks like I've got some investigating to do tonight!

[Hannacek]

They wouldn't tape a blank piece of paper to the inside of the console. There was something written on it, that has faded over time. It is usually a date code and/or error/debug codes. Sometimes there is a round orange or yellow sticker with a date code on it.

 

It is easy to take apart the console further. I think all you need to do is take out the two screws in the middle of the underside of the case. Then there are a few more screws to take the metal can off. It is pretty easy to take apart. If you can't remember how to put it back together, just take pictures as you go along.

[Tommatwalker]

I'm not sure, I shall have to investigate further when I get a chance! I'll have a look at getting the metal casing apart when I'm back at my console.

 

Thanks for all the help guys

 

Tom