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New design of Multijoy.


Mr Robot

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When the Multijoy game Sails of Doom was released late last year I decided I should make a Multijoy8 and use it as a learning opportunity for KiCad and PCB layout. It was harder than I thought!

 

Here is version 1

post-62759-0-07582300-1547918271.jpeg

 

It looks good but it doesn't work. I had got the wrong footprint for one of the Joystick Port connectors and the pin assignments were wrong. I manually fixed that and it now worked on my 800XL but didn't work on my 1088XEL, that turned out to be a similar problem to the SDrive MAX diode problem; I switched out one of the 1N4148 diodes for a 1N5819 Schottky diode and it worked properly now. Here is the hacked up board.

post-62759-0-89714200-1547918525.jpeg

 

Great! so I went off and ordered a batch of corrected boards and made one to test, here it is.

post-62759-0-66663200-1547918609.jpg

 

It worked great so I made a few for people on Twitter

post-62759-0-43718100-1547918694.jpeg

 

That's when I noticed the error on the Silkscreen :sad:. The joystick ports that connect to the Atari are labelled 1 & 2, they should be labelled 2 & 1. This is the fix I came up with.

post-62759-0-82134900-1547918840.jpeg

 

So there we are, I now have a couple of Multijoy 8's for multiplayer gaming and a few leftover boards as spares. I'm happy to let other people have these if they would like one.

 

It's a simple board with easy soldering and forgiving components but there is a fair amount of soldering required so it's great as a learning option if you are new to soldering and would like to get some practice before you attack a piece of history! I have some spare components left over as well, so I'm happy to supply kits or if you are not into DIY I can make one for you.

 

In the unlikely event that I get more interest than I have parts, I'm willing to produce another run. PM me if you are interested.

 

The parts required are (Including Digikey part numbers):-

 

4x 10K ¼w Resistor (CF14JT10K0CT-ND)

1x 0.1uf Ceramic Capacitor (1109PHCT-ND)

40x 1N5819 Schottky Diode (497-7053-1-ND)

1x SN74LS138N IC (296-1639-5-ND)

8x Male 9way DSub (AE10972-ND)

2x Female 9way DSub (AE11063-ND)

 

If you don't have a 1088XEL you can use 1N4148 diodes which are much cheaper

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As somebody who also did a MultiJoy8 board a few years ago, I love this form factor :)

 

Re: 1N4148, do you mean using these won't work with a 1088XEL (and perhaps XLD?)? Why? Should this be considered a bug in the XEL design? Or am I understanding things wrong, which is entirely possibly of course :)

Edited by ivop
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Thanks! Seeing your board and they no longer being available was the final push for me to make mine :)

 

That's right, when I used 1N4148's the Multijoy worked with my 800XL but didn't work with the 1088XEL, directionals were OK, the fire button didn't register.

 

Remembering the discussion about the SDriveMAX (which used to be built with a 1N4148 on one of the SIO lines) not working with the 1088XEL because the voltage drop was too great. The solution was to swap out the diode for a Schottky diode as the voltage drop was much less. I tried that on one of the Multijoy fire button lines and it worked. When the 2nd batch of boards arrived and I made one using just Schottky diodes it all worked great on both machines.

 

I don't know if I'd call it a bug in the XEL, it's probably just way more precise than the original Ataris were. If the joystick 5v on an 800xl is actually 5.2v there is more room for the voltage to drop across a diode and still hit the 4.75v needed by the multiplexer than the exactly 5v on the XEL

Edited by Mr Robot
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It's probably a bug with the XEL actually it really is a bug, but is not easily fixable (there is a way... see note below). Nice of you to say it's more precise, but that isn't the case. Luckily a diode change fixes that for you :) .

 

BTW, I love your board design... very creative.

 

---------

 

So what's causing the problem?

 

To reduce individual components on the XEL design (as well as the upcoming XLD), a resistor network was used for the paddle and trigger inputs. Problem is due to the paddle requirements the resistance had to be 1.8K, which was too high for the triggers to register. So to make things better, and because I had a couple of extra resistors in the network, I doubled them up for the trigger lines. Turns out this worked perfectly fine for mechanical switches being used for the trigger, but apparently with a typical diode voltage drop it was once again a no-go. Changing to a schottky diode puts things back in range. However a better fix might be to piggyback individual 220 ohm resistors across the network for the trigger circuit.

 

post-42561-0-77409700-1548048669_thumb.png

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Nice of you to say it's more precise, but that isn't the case.

I don't pretend to be an electronics engineer, I'm more an artist learning a new drawing program, before being able to draw. I'll probably cause Skynet when I design my first Schematic!

 

BTW, I love your board design... very creative.

Thank you! From a man of your skill, I take that as high praise indeed :)

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First one is assembled. I still need to clean the flux off the boards before installing the IC. I am going to blame poor lighting for the front shot. It looks like some of the lower legs (resistors in particular) are piled up with solder. That is not the case.

 

post-650-0-74249000-1548814121_thumb.jpg

post-650-0-18103400-1548814114_thumb.jpg

 

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Looks great!

 

If you socket the IC it will stand proud of the d-sub edges, I left the socket out so the IC is protected whichever way up the board is laid. I don't think that IC is ever likely to need replacing.

Yeah - I know. I have a bad habit. I cannot physically bring myself to solder an IC to a PCB.

 

Confession since I cannot tell a lie. I made a huge mistake. I soldered a male jack to one of the inputs, and the female jack to output #4. Now I have a quandary. Do I try to fix it and risk damaging the board? Do I just cut out the two bad jacks and replace them? Or, do I show the world my stupidity and use 2 gender-benders to fix, but also highlight my ineptitude?

 

Should I start a poll?

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I did the same thing when designing the board, thats why the first go had all the pins reversed. :)

 

If you like I can send you another male and female dsub.

Thanks - that would be great. I can't see any possible way of removing them without cutting the pins. I don't have a hot air rework station and they were a really tight fit even before soldering.

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