O.o What is your replacement transistor by exact number
as read off it? Who made it as well if known. Sometimes
they don't put the base in the middle which can lead to
another round of calling one's self unsuitable names.
Wrong setting will plague us all among many other
foolish things. It's ok - we are just going to grin a
little bit - any more than that is tempting our own fate.
Between Pin 3 of Sally and C44 I'm getting about 1.6V and should be 4.8
Those are scope diagrams and are only relevant if you
are using a scope. A multimeter will be time averaging
that and giving a wrongful reading. point 6 is the
voltmeter reading on the base of Q1 that you should have.
The trimpot's range should be between 0-8.5V but is between 0-7V
I should be getting 5V between C45 and CR3 but instead I get 5.5V
That much seems to indicate it is working, but not
strongly enough perhaps?
Also, directly after the collector leg on Q1 there's a 2.4V indicator. I don't know if it's relevant but the voltage I got from that point is -0.6V.
-0.6 volt to me might be the base instead of the collector?
Replacement transistors will state they are suitable
but don't go into details of how they moved the base
from the middle leg and now it's opposite #1, the emitter.
As counted/read left to right.
Also of note is that R36 is marked as 680 Ohm in the schematic but is 680k Ohm on my machine. Might it possibly have been upscaled to compensate for the removal of R35? With R35 gone it's the only source of +5V for this part of the board.
This is an excellent find but with some confusion,
R35 is not missing, it's XEGS R13. But XEGS R14 at
680K is a thousand times too much and is certainly
keeping the circuit from generating adequate power
for the voltage doubler part. Blue, gray, brown for
blue, gray, yellow here too - good eye. You've repaid
me all I've invested in you already, thanks.
This is likely a typo error, somebody said K when they
shoulda shut up already and stopped at plain 680 on
the read back.
C48 MIA might not be an issue at all as that particular
value is the standard by-pass cap value and they are
scattered like rice at a wedding. Noisy chips in
particular are supposed to have one close to their
power supply to shunt noise spikes to ground and in
general its good practice to do that. But in this case
there may be no need or an engineer decided upon his
own that there was no need. Doesn't matter - add one
if you want one or leave it out. But for further
reading I like to point people to this paper while I
have a bag of .33 uf chip style at the ready.
Selecting Decoupling Capacitors for Atmels PLDs
On a sad note, the original url for the above pdf is
a redirect to microchip which means Atmel has been
Hold on, it's working now?http://ww1.microchip...tes/DOC0484.PDFhttp://www.atmel.com...ges/doc0484.pdf
Must be so recent a change they are working on it
actively, I swear it could not be found even searching
microchip for it. So now it's here too, and I've got a
copy salted away as well.
Other possible of interest revelation is the Blue ESR
meter that is effectively a low ohms digital meter that
is so accurate as to knock one's socks off. To be used
in the determination of a decent capacitor or one that
is about to go tits up and mess the bed too.
Search for Blue ESR meter on ebay - you can't miss it.