Troubleshooting 1050 w/ Happy

[Umberto]

 

Hello, I am located in Northern Virginia (USA.) You are Washington state not Washington DC right? :-)

Yup the state

[+Nezgar]

I do have both an analog 20mhz scope and a DSO (Rigol 100mhz something or other.)

But if it requires a known good disk, I don't have anything to align it against.

Head alignment is very rarely an issue on 1050 mechs. I'd focus on the Analog adjustments after the WDC controller chip is replaced, tf_hh's post detailing it is here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/282626-howto-adjust-analogue-part-of-fdc-279x-in-a-1050-disk-drive/

 

If you have issues reading disks formatted in other drives after that, then I'd consider looking at head alignment...

[telmnstr]

Oh wow, much thanks. Yea I have the equipment and should have the ability to perform that once I get the replacement IC.

 

I figure it will be about a week and a half before I get the SDriveMax upgraded and the WD chip in from Poland. Then I will revisit and try to knock this out.

 

Hopefully the RAM for the Atari 130XE arrives this weekend.

 

Much thanks for all the advice!

[macsonny]

On 5/9/2019 at 4:48 PM, Nezgar said:

 

You can find replacement 6116 chips on eBay or AliExpress. For example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/132726954278from UK or https://www.ebay.com/itm/183010297389 from China.

 

Since the drive is doing the POST failure sequence, it would seem the CPU and ROM are OK.

 

Here is a picture of my 6K board like yours, with new SRAM chips: ( I had to break the seal of 'authenticity' )

 

 

Take a look at this post, which shows a US Doubler mask ROM, the original 6507 CPU still in place, and the large "ICD" module in the RAM socket:

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/288201-five-1050s-determining-upgrades-and-diagnostics/?p=4219307

 

Yours could be a mask ROM as pictures there with JP1/JP3 configured, or an official EPROM version, with JP2/JP4 configured. If the motherboard jumpers are configured the same on both drives, you can transfer those three IC's over to the other drive to test without any soldering.

 

Mask ROM:

 

or EPROM:

 

Edit: Neat, my serial # "B 10117" is not far from yours "B 10151" !

 

Edit2: Those 2 loose wires might be for an RPM slowdown switch... can you see where the wires from that little PCB at the back of the drive connect to the main 1050 board? Looks like 5 wires go to the underside?

What are those two wires on the header pins on the Happy board connected to and doing?

[+Nezgar]

5 hours ago, macsonny said:

What are those two wires on the header pins on the Happy board connected to and doing?

There is a single wire coming off that Happy PCB that supplies +5V/Vcc. The other two wires go to the +5V/Vcc pins of the ROM on the Happy PCB, and a ROM still sitting in U10 on the main board underneath. This is attached to a 3-pin 2-position switch (SPDT on-on) on the faceplate to switch between "Happy" mode and "Stock 1050" mode. Of course this should only be done with the drive off. Nice simple hack mod actually. So centre pin of the switch goes to the +5V/Vcc from happy PCB, then the outer 2 pins of the switch go to Vcc of each ROM.

 

 

[macsonny]

5 hours ago, Nezgar said:

There is a single wire coming off that Happy PCB that supplies +5V/Vcc. The other two wires go to the +5V/Vcc pins of the ROM on the Happy PCB, and a ROM still sitting in U10 on the main board underneath. This is attached to a 3-pin 2-position switch (SPDT on-on) on the faceplate to switch between "Happy" mode and "Stock 1050" mode. Of course this should only be done with the drive off. Nice simple hack mod actually. So centre pin of the switch goes to the +5V/Vcc from happy PCB, then the outer 2 pins of the switch go to Vcc of each ROM.

 

 

I found the attached diagram that shows a switch in-between the end of R83 and PIN 16 of the PIO. Would this also work?

 

Edited September 19, 2023 by macsonny

[+Nezgar]

58 minutes ago, macsonny said:

I found the attached diagram that shows a switch in-between the end of R83 and PIN 16 of the PIO. Would this also work?

 

I guess that may toggle the happy ROM's unbuffered mode, which is not the same as "unhappy" mode, and not the same as switching the whole ROM to the Stock 1050 ROM, which the above switch does.

[_The Doctor__]

All Happy MODS in one drive type of document is needed with conflated options clarified with accurate names

[macsonny]

16 hours ago, Nezgar said:

There is a single wire coming off that Happy PCB that supplies +5V/Vcc. The other two wires go to the +5V/Vcc pins of the ROM on the Happy PCB, and a ROM still sitting in U10 on the main board underneath. This is attached to a 3-pin 2-position switch (SPDT on-on) on the faceplate to switch between "Happy" mode and "Stock 1050" mode. Of course this should only be done with the drive off. Nice simple hack mod actually. So centre pin of the switch goes to the +5V/Vcc from happy PCB, then the outer 2 pins of the switch go to Vcc of each ROM.

 

 

Ok, so trying to follow your logic here but I'm totally confused. Have attached a photo of my 1050 board and Happy board with Happy removed. The Happy goes in ROM slot U9 and there is nothing in U10 as this is removed for the Happy upgrade.

 

So where do the wires go exactly on the Happy PCB and if there is no U10 then does that wire also need to be connected. Do you have a schematic or similar I can follow?