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building a Galaga/MS.Pacman Minicab


dgo

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My next project will be building a scaled MS.Pacman/Galaga cab

(haven't decided yet)

 

Also I haven't decided which of two options I'm going for:

 

50% scale, using a tiny 12" color monitor or 70% scale using a 15" monitor. .

 

I'm leaning towards the 50% because that's what's been on my mind from the start. I think it would be so cool having such a little working machine in my room :D 8)

 

However, the 70% option is interesting too for it is more 'playable size'...

 

There's a number of other ppl who stole my idea ;), some examples:

 

http://www.minimame.com/

http://members.cox.net/fatbasta/minipacman.htm

 

Anyway, today I started off building a scaled model at 10%. I figured it's better to make the big mistakes first on a tryout before screwing up my MDF. (This is the first time I'm building a cab form the ground up, my previous project was a conversion)

 

As I used 8 mm MDF, obviously the sides are waaay to thick. This however is a nice preview of the bigger model as I'm going to use 18mm MDF (for the t-molding to fit) so that would be oversized as well. I don't think it will look too bad (at least I hope so).....

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I think I gave you guys the impression that I made that one. I didn't. It was built by one of the BYOAC members, patrickl. Although I'm sure I could build one, I just don't have a pocketpc to sacrifice for the project. Patrick did a superb job on his.

 

-S

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I think I gave you guys the impression that I made that one. I didn't. It was built by one of the BYOAC members, patrickl. Although I'm sure I could build one, I just don't have a pocketpc to sacrifice for the project. Patrick did a superb job on his.

 

-S

 

Well, chapeau to him then!

 

I especially like the controls. That little joystick is simply amazing!. Do you have a link to a building process or something? I wonder how and if he rewired controls etc...

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I think I would go with the 70% - the 50% is kind of too small to play (but it might still work).

Reminds me of the Moppet video games (they were made smaller so kids could play).

Good luck man!

Make sure you post the final results!

 

Nah, I play my atari on a old 1980's style tv that's a 13" (that luckily is able to play PAL games as well =D), and I have no problems with it, let alone close up in an arcade setup. That's what I use for the hsc every week!

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Ahem  8)  

 

 

 

:D  

 

...

 

(BTW I made my miniMAME about 3 years ago)  :P  :P

 

Oh yes those are excellent bartops I love those and I've seen your site in the past. For a next project (after this that is) I want to build an 'easy sitting behind my desk' mame machine. also with a horizontal mounted monitor. For this project, I'm going vertical though.

 

Anyway, Very nice job indeed!

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A 50% model would be too small to stand up at (unless you are 5 years old) and too big to put on a counter.

 

That's true but *very* cool looking and you can always put it on something to play on. (like with one of those smaller old one armed bandits placed on a cabinet).

 

And I don't really need it to play on anyway, I use my conversion for that...

 

Also, perhaps the same arguments are valid for a 70% version :roll:

with my tallness (about 2 mtrs) I'd really need a 120% version to play on comfortably

:D

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www.widel.com scroll down to the bottom of the page.   That's 50% scale with an extra inch added on.

 

Well, that's my baby exactly ! (the cab that is :) )

 

Is that a WIP or is it finished? (pics please!)

 

Also, I see your going to use standard size pushbuttons (and joystick ?) Some guy told me about using scaled pushedbuttons and joystick. But uptil now I' didn't find any...

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www.widel.com scroll down to the bottom of the page.   That's 50% scale with an extra inch added on.

 

Well, that's my baby exactly ! (the cab that is :) )

 

Is that a WIP or is it finished? (pics please!)

 

Also, I see your going to use standard size pushbuttons (and joystick ?) Some guy told me about using scaled pushedbuttons and joystick. But uptil now I' didn't find any...

 

It's WIP, I'm easily distracted. It will have full size controls. I'll take some more pics later. I took the measurements from my full size ms pac and divided by 2. Then added an inch to the width and depth at the bottom, but the top is the original 1/2 depth to make it easier to see the tv. A 13 tv fits very nicely. I took the chassis off the tv and rotated it backwards so the buttons are all on the back. There's a piece of plywood that slides in like a drawer. The tv is bolted to it just like the monitor would be in a larger machine. I'm using the ms pac/galaga/digdug/mappy toy instead of a board. I was hoping to tap into 5v on the tv to run the toy but it drops the voltage on the tv and the tv won't run so I need to find a 5v brick. Anyway all the electronics, joysticks, everything are on the slide in board so it's pretty easy to work on.

 

Some of the cocktail cabs have pretty small sticks but I just picked up the cheapest I could find. Not sure if you can get real looking buttons that are scaled down. I'm going to have about $120 in this total.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally decided to go for the 50% option:

 

The 9" monitor I specifically bought for this project is just perfect for the the 50% option. (the original can has a 19")

 

It will not be the best cab to be playing on, but so isn't a 70% version. This is about coolness and small size. When I put it on a small cupboard or something, it should be playable.

 

Some comments for the attached pictures for those interested;

 

Picture 1:

 

First things first: Accurate drawings. Thinking before sawing straight away. I made that mistake too many times. I especially considered the width of the MDF I used, which is twice as thick as it should be on 50% scale. Because I want the outer dimensions to be exactly at the right scale,

the width of the inner panels had to be reduced.

 

Picture 2:

 

These are my essential tools for drawing. The flexible ruler is ideal for drawing curves etc.

 

Picture 3 and 4:

 

To get 2 identical sides, I sandwiched the first one on a fresh board MDF to use it to outline the second side. (thus taking advantage of the factory-straight corners; I don't know about you guys, but even with a circular saw I tend to make slight curves)

 

It turned out pretty good, to make them exactly equal, I just sandwiched 'em together again and gave them a good sanding.

 

Picture 5:

 

The actual slot cutting for the T-Molding is a piece of cake, IF you have one of these (and a router of course) It took me WEEKS to find one here in the Netherlands for a reasonable price. These things are RARE :D

 

Picture 6:

 

Trying to get a feel for the dimensions of the monitor. It all seems to be fitting just as calculated (so far :ponder: )

 

Picture 7:

 

And there it is: the result of a day's hard work. All panels cut out, neatly standing against a kitchen's cupboard. (after the kitchen's been vacuumed, what a mess... at least it's better than my previous project on which I did the sawing in the living room which was pretty dumb. My gameroom is out of the question :P and No, I don't have a garage)

 

Picture 8:

 

Now how the hell am I going to fit this mess neatly in my cab :? By the way, can anyone tell me the exact function of the black cable whcih runs aroung the front of the tube?

 

Well, that's it for now. I'm pretty content with the results so far. My preperation paid of I guess, no big mistakes so far.. Tonight I'll be designing my control panel and think about the monitor (which are on the same piece of board).

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post-5118-1109715670_thumb.jpg

post-5118-1109715671_thumb.jpg

post-5118-1109715672_thumb.jpg

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Wow, you are my god. I have been contemplating building a minipacman for some time now. But, I want to use an origional PCB, wiring harness, ect., add acoin door, ect. I'm looking into the 70% option and have downloaded your .pdf plans dgo. Any tips for using origional components???

 

That 1/6th scale galaga is like the single coolest thing I have ever seen.

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The last two days I made the following progress:

 

- editing & designing the bezel +control panel artwork

- designing & building monitor frame

- designing & building control panel

- cutting out top panel

 

which was a Lot of work!

 

Picture 1: I designed a control panel layout, simular to the bezel, this is a small version of it. Let me know if you want the bigger version of both.

post-5118-1127339563_thumb.jpg

 

Picture 2: I chose this design for the control panel. Three buttons plus a credit button and 1-player. I hesitated putting the joystick in the centre (like the original) but that would've taken too much space for the pushbuttons.

post-5118-1127339623_thumb.jpg

 

Picture 3 and 4: First I cut out two templates for the monitor, sandwiched them and screwed the monitor to the back. I had to use two extra layers to get the plexiglas nicely over the tube without touching it. The last layer is thinner MDF. The wires in front of the tube the

can be nicely put in this final layer so it's hidden behind the bezel.

post-5118-1127339704_thumb.jpg

post-5118-1127339671_thumb.jpg

 

Picture 5: Here's the control panel and monitor completed! As you can see, I used a aluminum T-Profile which nicely covers the edges of the plexiglas and holds it down at the same time. The control panel is going to be easy removable using wing screws, placed between the front plate (pics later) and the monitor frame. I wonder how it looks with the protective film removed 8)

You better leave on the protective film as long as possible. Only remove it when your finished working on it. Otherwise, you'll scratch it, no doubt.

(of course don't forget to take of the backside once you fix it on a surface

:D )

post-5118-1127339730_thumb.jpg

 

Picture 7: I'm using one single broadband speaker (actually, this one is from an original 1982 cabinet. I figured that would give me nice nostalgic sound quality :)) For lighting the Marquee (I'll be designing that tonight) I'm using two small lamps. A tube light doesn't fit.

post-5118-1127339762_thumb.jpg

 

 

Right now I've started working on the assembly of the actual cabinet, as I pretty much have done everything required to be starting with that. To be continued...

Edited by dgo
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Wow, you are my god.  I have been contemplating building a minipacman for some time now.  But, I want to use an origional PCB, wiring harness, ect., add acoin door, ect.  I'm looking into the 70% option and have downloaded your .pdf plans dgo.  Any tips for using origional components???

 

That 1/6th scale galaga is like the single coolest thing I have ever seen.

 

I'm not sure which pdf plans you refer to, but I used these plans which are conveniently in png format and cover most measures. Though these are for a Ms.Pacman/Galaga cabinet which is a little different from the Pacman cabinet.

 

As for components: I'm not really an expert in arcade components. I always use PC components. What I did see a few days ago, is one of those 9-in-1 arcade boards which are pretty cool. These host multiple roms on a single pcb which are flashable. pretty expensive though. But an original Pacman board is not too cheap either, is it?

 

Why do you choose to use original components?

galaga_png.zip

Edited by dgo
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