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Monitor cable for 1084S?


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#1 NightSprinter OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Aug 5, 2006 9:31 AM

I know I'm probably beating a dead horse on this subject, but does anyone know where I can get a cable to connect my 520ST to a Commodore 1084S-D monitor (the one where the RGB port is a D-Sub9 female connector)? I want to be able to test my computer beyond "does it power up?".

Also, a bit off-topic, but while the ST powered up, there was no floppy activity (i.e. the drive's own light wouldn't respond), and there was also a strange jumper that had two wires just hanging loosely. Any idea what that is?

#2 Mitch OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Aug 5, 2006 1:01 PM

I know I'm probably beating a dead horse on this subject, but does anyone know where I can get a cable to connect my 520ST to a Commodore 1084S-D monitor (the one where the RGB port is a D-Sub9 female connector)? I want to be able to test my computer beyond "does it power up?".

Also, a bit off-topic, but while the ST powered up, there was no floppy activity (i.e. the drive's own light wouldn't respond), and there was also a strange jumper that had two wires just hanging loosely. Any idea what that is?


For the monitor cable you will probably have to build it yourself, that's what I had to do.
Have no idea on the floppy question.

Mitch

#3 remowilliams OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Aug 5, 2006 2:05 PM

I know I'm probably beating a dead horse on this subject, but does anyone know where I can get a cable to connect my 520ST to a Commodore 1084S-D monitor

You will have to build your own. The only somewhat harder part is getting the ST end of the connector otherwise it's straight forward. I use a 1084S as my primary monitor for the Amiga/ST/IIgs. And a ton of gaming hardware :)

Also, a bit off-topic, but while the ST powered up, there was no floppy activity (i.e. the drive's own light wouldn't respond), and there was also a strange jumper that had two wires just hanging loosely. Any idea what that is?

The floppy light should come on and the drive should spin when the ST is powered on. I also have no idea what the jumpers you are describing are.

#4 Gunstar OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Aug 5, 2006 11:28 PM

You don't have to build it yourself. Best Electronics will custom build their own "Best" series of monitor cables for the ST (for just about any monitor you want it for) including one for the 1084 series monitors. Give them a call or visit the website: http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/
Or, you can get all the parts you need from them to build your own, so you don't have to go searching for the parts. I highly recommend getting the Best Electronics catalog from them for $10 with your order; it's a bible for Atari's with tips, history tidbits, and most importantly thousands of Atari parts and products and general electronic components. Any parts that you are looking for atari related, you will find in the Best catalog 99% of the time. Including the ST 13-pin din connector.

Edited by Gunstar, Sat Aug 5, 2006 11:44 PM.


#5 bearrr OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 6, 2006 1:32 AM

You surely don't have to build one yourself! The Commodore 1084-D has the same connector as the Philips CM8833-II, which was used by many atarians in Europe. You can buy a suitable cable from Vintagecomputer, but hurry up as they're about to close the store.

http://www.vintageco...p?idProduct=409

#6 telengard OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 6, 2006 9:38 PM

You surely don't have to build one yourself! The Commodore 1084-D has the same connector as the Philips CM8833-II, which was used by many atarians in Europe. You can buy a suitable cable from Vintagecomputer, but hurry up as they're about to close the store.

http://www.vintageco...p?idProduct=409


Wow, I could use one of those. I wonder if they ship to the US...

~telengard

#7 tjlazer OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Aug 8, 2006 2:14 PM

I had Redmond Cable make me a cable... They might even have some in stock.

#8 Gunstar OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Aug 8, 2006 9:35 PM

I had Redmond Cable make me a cable... They might even have some in stock.

Now that you mentioned Redmond Cable, IIRC, B&C Computervisions carries Redmond ST-to-1084 cables! I'm 99% sure the right cable can be ordered/purchased from either Best Electronics or B&C Computervisions.

Edited by Gunstar, Tue Aug 8, 2006 9:37 PM.


#9 Gunstar OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Aug 8, 2006 9:42 PM

I know I'm probably beating a dead horse on this subject, but does anyone know where I can get a cable to connect my 520ST to a Commodore 1084S-D monitor (the one where the RGB port is a D-Sub9 female connector)? I want to be able to test my computer beyond "does it power up?".

Also, a bit off-topic, but while the ST powered up, there was no floppy activity (i.e. the drive's own light wouldn't respond), and there was also a strange jumper that had two wires just hanging loosely. Any idea what that is?


Sorry, I missed the drive problem the first time around. First, are you sure that the loose wires aren't suppose to go to an LED light and that is why you aren't seeing it light up? Other than that, you will probably need to post some pictures so I can help any further. I don't even know if these loose wires you refer to are something you saw on the inside or something that's hanging about on the outside of the drive! ;)

#10 NightSprinter OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jan 2, 2007 7:19 PM

Well, it would seem after getting that monitor cable.. I now regret my decision to buy it. I loaded up my UK copy of Gauntlet II, and the screen is extremely garbled and rolls. I also cannot use the GEM desktop because I see green, purple, and white bars on the screen as well.

For the record, nothing shows up when I switch the monitor to "TTL-Digital".

#11 Mitch OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jan 2, 2007 7:26 PM

Well, it would seem after getting that monitor cable.. I now regret my decision to buy it. I loaded up my UK copy of Gauntlet II, and the screen is extremely garbled and rolls. I also cannot use the GEM desktop because I see green, purple, and white bars on the screen as well.

For the record, nothing shows up when I switch the monitor to "TTL-Digital".


From what I remember the 1084s-d doesn't support seperate sync in analog RGB mode. You'll have to build an adapter to combine the two sync signals together.

Mitch

#12 remowilliams OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jan 2, 2007 7:56 PM

Well, it would seem after getting that monitor cable.. I now regret my decision to buy it. I loaded up my UK copy of Gauntlet II, and the screen is extremely garbled and rolls. I also cannot use the GEM desktop because I see green, purple, and white bars on the screen as well.

For the record, nothing shows up when I switch the monitor to "TTL-Digital".

If your cable is constructed properly, and your monitor is functioning correctly (as well as the ST), you should not be having a problem. All my C1084x monitors work with 50/60hz inputs. Based on your description of the desktop - something is wrong. You should not see anything using TTL-Digital, as the ST is analog RBG.


From what I remember the 1084s-d doesn't support seperate sync in analog RGB mode. You'll have to build an adapter to combine the two sync signals together.

Are you sure about that? I'm 99% positive that my cable adapters feed separate H/V signals. I use them on 1084S-D/P models, with the ST/Amiga and analog RBG.

Edited by remowilliams, Tue Jan 2, 2007 8:08 PM.


#13 NightSprinter OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jan 2, 2007 11:01 PM

I must have a poorly-constructed cable, then. Because I know the monitor works just fine with my Amiga1200 and C128 in 80-column mode. Any suggestions on where else to get a better cable from? Because at this point, I'm guessing all I need is one of those, or an SC1435 monitor and the correct cables to hook up the Amiga and C128 to it (I've heard the SC1435 was also a very good RGB monitor for systems like the Jaguar).

Edited by NightSprinter, Tue Jan 2, 2007 11:03 PM.


#14 Mitch OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 3, 2007 1:43 AM

I am assuming you got an SC1435 cable?

If so your cable pinout would look like this:
Pin	Function
1	  Ground
2	  Ground
3	  Red
4	  Green 	
5	  Blue
6	  N/C
7	  N/C
8	  H-Sync
9	  V-Sync

The 1084s-d pinout looks like this:
Pin	Name 	Analog Mode	  Digital Mode
1	  GND	  Ground	   	Ground
2	  GND	  Ground	   	Ground
3	  R		Red			  Red
4	  G		Green			Green
5	  B		Blue		 	Blue
6	  I		n/c			  Intensity
7	  CSYNS	Composite Sync	n/c
8	  HSYNC	n/c			  Horizontal Sync
9	  VSYNC	n/c			  Vertical Sync

Does that make sense.

Mitch

#15 NightSprinter OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 3, 2007 4:33 AM

I'm not too sure, Mitch, as when I bought the cable it was actually labeled on the site as being made specifically for the 1084S. I'm guessing I did somehow get an SC1435 one by mistake.

#16 Mitch OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 3, 2007 11:21 AM

I'm not too sure, Mitch, as when I bought the cable it was actually labeled on the site as being made specifically for the 1084S. I'm guessing I did somehow get an SC1435 one by mistake.


Is the end of the cable that has the 9 pin connector easily opened? If so maybe you can check if pins 7, 8, and 9 are connected.

Mitch

#17 NightSprinter OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 3, 2007 12:58 PM

Well, this says a few things. The white and thin black wires are soldered with resistors to pin 7, leaving 8 and 9 open. The following wires are done this way:

Thick black and thin pink: Pin1
Thin Pink: Pin2
Red: Pin3
Yellow: Pin4
Purple: Pin5
Nothing: Pin6
Thin Black and thin white: Pin7
Nothing: Pin8
Nothing: Pin9

#18 Mitch OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 3, 2007 2:44 PM

Well, this says a few things. The white and thin black wires are soldered with resistors to pin 7, leaving 8 and 9 open. The following wires are done this way:

Thick black and thin pink: Pin1
Thin Pink: Pin2
Red: Pin3
Yellow: Pin4
Purple: Pin5
Nothing: Pin6
Thin Black and thin white: Pin7
Nothing: Pin8
Nothing: Pin9


Interesting, sounds like it is wired up correctly then.
You might try fiddling with the v-hold and h-hold knobs on the monitor, maybe they are just slightly off. Make sure to mark the original position before you do though, so you can put it back to the original position if needed.

Mitch

#19 remowilliams OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 3, 2007 2:57 PM

Interesting, sounds like it is wired up correctly then.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the ST doesn't output composite sync - correct? So pins 8&9 should be connected to the ST's H/V sync lines, no? Or does simply tying them together work?

My cables route H/V sync directly through to the 1084.

Edited by remowilliams, Wed Jan 3, 2007 2:59 PM.


#20 NightSprinter OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 3, 2007 3:31 PM

Wouldn't know, really. Plus I only know of the V-Hold dial on my monitor, and I do think there's an issue with the wires not being done correctly..

#21 Mitch OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 3, 2007 6:54 PM

According to the pinouts I posted above pins 8 and 9 are not active in analog RGB mode. There are several different model 1084s though so maybe yours is a different one.
Using two resistors to combine the separate Hor/Vert sync signals is a cheap and fairly common way of making an AND circuit.

Mitch

#22 NightSprinter OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 3, 2007 8:07 PM

Well, if it helps the situation any further, my monitor's specific model is the 1084S-D2. Has the usual stereo audio inputs, video/luma and chroma inputs, 9-pin D-Sub connector for both analog and Digital-TTL RGB inputs (mostly to accomodate the Amiga and C128 I guess), and stereo output jack on the side.

#23 remowilliams OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 3, 2007 9:54 PM

According to the pinouts I posted above pins 8 and 9 are not active in analog RGB mode. There are several different model 1084s though so maybe yours is a different one.

Well, I can say that I'm looking at 2 1084S-D1's, a 1084P, and a 1084S-P here and they all take separate H/Vsync signals in analog RBG mode.

As a matter of fact, the P series 6 pin DIN connectors only have separate H/Vsync.

#24 Gunstar OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 3, 2007 10:01 PM

I have the exact monitor, and although I have never hooked my ST up to it, as I have an SC1224 for the ST, I have hooked up a Sega Genesis&CD to it with a cable I made myself. All you need to obtain are the pinouts for the ST monitor port and the 1084S RGB monitor plug. I found them by doing a google search (although I was looking for Genesis RGB pinouts). Then you buy cable, generally 9 wire will be more than enough, I used 15 wire cable with mine becuase that is what I had at hand, though I didn't use a third of them. Most electronic warehouses online carry the proper plugs. I know Best Electronics carries the right one for plugging into the ST's port, and they may even have a plug that will fit the 1084 too, they do carry a wide selection ofgeneral electronic components. Personally, I got my supplies from here: http://www.digikey.c...l?KeywordSearch

That was before I ordered my Best Electronics catalog, I can get most anything from it now. The $10 is worth the price of this Atari electronics bible&catalog, I wish I had bought it years ago, but you can buy anything they have without it; ordering is done the old fashioned way directly to the owner, usually, and just tell him what you need. A partial catalog can be found online here: http://www.best-elec...ca.com/text.htm
but that's only a fraction of what they carry.
In the end the quickest and simplist way is to make the cable yourself, if you have soldering skills. One can find wiring schematics for the ST&1084 online too, if you need exact instructions. I also made an RGB cable going from my Atari Jaguar to the Atari SC1224 monitor. I plan to make one for the Jag&1084 eventually.

#25 Gunstar OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 3, 2007 10:06 PM

According to the pinouts I posted above pins 8 and 9 are not active in analog RGB mode. There are several different model 1084s though so maybe yours is a different one.

Well, I can say that I'm looking at 2 1084S-D1's, a 1084P, and a 1084S-P here and they all take separate H/Vsync signals in analog RBG mode.

As a matter of fact, the P series 6 pin DIN connectors only have separate H/Vsync.


I ran into a similair situation when doing the Genesis RGB, IIRC, it only had one sync signal, I either found the one of the two 1084 that it worked with, or I split it and hooked it up to both, I don't recall, but it works great. It's just a matter of a little trial and error and if you have the Basic RGB&ground wires hooked up properly, it can be done with minimal effort.




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