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1050

Member Since 24 May 2007
OFFLINE Last Active Yesterday, 3:15 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: 65XE garbage appears on map of BoulderDash1 after warm up

Wed Jun 13, 2018 1:16 AM

That can be due to other things.  When I had the 32in1 OS installed I'd get random glitches in characters.  Supposedly the problem can be due to Phi2 timing issues and also due to certain sequences of Ram/Rom accesses where one or the other puts residual data on the bus for too long.


I always change out U18 74LS08 for 74HCT08 every
chance I get and my babies seem to love me for it.
Randomness in screen characters goes away, I like
to think it's because of the more square Phi2 clock
but I don't have a means to look at it yet. I can
swap out a chip though. It's not a common problem
of mine, but I have seen it several times. MMU
might be involved too, this sort of smells like
the CPU at the same time especially the warm up
time part. At least that's my take on it.

In Topic: Atari 800xl repair log / bad video output

Tue Jun 5, 2018 1:43 AM

B & C ComputerVisions
http://www.myatari.com

In Topic: Slow/defective 1050 drives with lazer upgrade

Sun Jun 3, 2018 11:26 AM

Massive 4K quality videos don't render very well on
my XP. Have to run them thru VLC at 10% speed to even
see any movement at all. But I do see the ring 'O
fingers giving a variable pattern with your lighting
or camera shutter speed which means RPM is all over
the place with zero load already. Spindle does need
lubricating would be my suggestion. From the bottom
side you will either see a ball bearing or a brass
sintered bushing with a C-clip holding it in there.

That one can be lubed right there, no disassembly
required. But the other one deep inside is also
thirsty. Just had a thought that might work. If
you'll drill an oiling access hole into the space
between the bearings or bushings, you could use a
needle oiler to put say two drops in there and leave it
upside down overnight.

3-in-1 oil is similar to 30 weight motor oil and
is entirely suitable even though I will always use
my 90w gear lube for it's better lasting abilities.
And that's just a personal choice there.

Had some luck with the motor itself too. Pulley end
is sintered bronze so after removing the belt to
keep it oil free, place a drop under the pulley and
let it sit there for a day. The oil will weep thru
the bronze bearing and lube the output shaft well
and good for decades to come. On the top side there
is a removable cover that houses the tach, I had to
resort to gripping the head of the screws with some
close cut, flush cut nippers from harbor freight to
loosen them, but under there is a magnet and under
the magnet is the other sintered bronze bushing that
also needs one drop or less of oil and it should sit
there at least overnight if you want it truly oiled
well. A paper towel on edge and held taught can be
drawn thru that slim space to pick up any excess on
both ends. The motor has been lubed pretty much for
life.

A similar bottle based needle oiler:
https://www.ebay.com...re/112547328039

Time how long it takes to get 2 drops out of it and
put the needle in the access hole drilled and squeeze.

From underneath you'll see two bands of black markings.
Closer inspections will show 50 Hz and 60Hz text to
show which one will stand still when at synchronous
speed when viewed with florescent lighting under those
two power grid AC cycle systems. Don't believe it as
we may have a situation where they only stand still
when turning 300 RPM or 360 RPM and ours was always
normal at 288 RPM. In other words the sync bars could
very well not ever really work for us.

At any rate, that sync bar platform is flat all across
there, the spindle extends from it. The upper bearing
is just below that level so when drilling an access
oiling hole, drill it dead center between the bottom
and the top and you should break thru into the empty
space where the spring is. No need to worry about zinc
pot metal shavings ruining a thing if they get in there,
they will just pile up in some out of the way corner to
do nothing much ever again.

Drilling a hole is certainly easier than dealing with
that very strong spring mano e mano, I think I'm
drilling holes from here on out myself. And I doubt
there is even a need to plug the hole when done oiling
either. Wadded paper towel diaper under the bottom
bearing for a day should sop up all of it. Unfortunately
lithium grease as good as it is for engine assembly
lube doesn't lend itself very well to this method of
lubing. Best to choose a high quality oil, time your
2 drops and go that route. If you have ball bearings
instead, the overnight wait can be dispensed with.
For ball bearings, a half hour will be plenty enough
time for the oil to wet all surfaces inside the shields
of same. But I would still let it sit upright on a wad
of paper towels just in case there is an excess drop
that would eventually seep thru the bottom bearing which
can be oiled from the bottom very easy.

These ball bearings can not possibly fail in the crushed
ball bearing mode as is likely to happen in an automobile's
alternator for example. We aren't making that much torque,
these bearings are just locking up and spinning on the
loose fit axle they are supposed to slide upon anyway.
That mode just causes excess friction and variable friction
too.

In Topic: Atari 800xl repair log / bad video output

Sun Jun 3, 2018 7:48 AM

Ages old B&C Atari vendor's eBay storefront, pretty
much can't go wrong with those rubber feet. Same ones
Atari used. They are Atari NOS.

In Topic: Slow/defective 1050 drives with lazer upgrade

Tue May 29, 2018 9:32 PM

My take on the 20 seconds of video has me wondering about
that piece of foam under the pressure pad lifting arm.
If it was replaced, then that could be the entire issue as
I've done just that and every single time I have to trim
the foam down into a deep Vee shape to lessen it's down
force upon the jacket or the motor can't spin at a
steady rate as the friction of the disk inside the
jacket is way too much for it. Whatever foam they
used originally was extremely weak, I have found nothing
suitable for it's replacement either without having to
resort to severe snipping of it's width.

Nezgar's third paragraph question answered above
would easily detect this fault too.

Here is a post where I oil my spindle bearings and
top spinner.
http://atariage.com/...-3#entry4025982

Since that thread died rather suddenly I'm wondering if I
should offer the top spinner assembly as I oiled it?
I'll take the dry one in exchange and oil it for the
next guy? Postage and a pittance is really all it's
worth, I didn't spend a half hour on that part. If
anybody is interested contact me via PM, I'll send
mine as soon as I get yours. I could even just do yours.