Dantaipan

Is there any advantage to doing that? Everything seems to be working well without it.

@Simius thanks again for your input. I have the UAV installed in this machine so it is not a proper CD4050. Tapping the equivalent of pin 15 did not give me sync on the 1080s-d1 however pin 14 did (see pic). This outputs at 3.3vpp and works great into the 1084s-d1. The way I understand it though this is bad to run into a scaler like the RT5X but I guess since I have the DVI output I just use that for modern sources and keep RGB for my CRT setup. I suppose I could also have an additional cable with resistors that brought the levels down when used with a scaler.

There is a very old post on this forum about adding a jumper to the 74L506 that handles sync in the 1084s but I have not had time to run through it in detail yet. Will review later tonight.

Thanks Simius. I will absolutely remove the second line. As noted in my message to you I believe there may be a difference in the PAL vs NTSC 1084S-D1 units when it comes to Analog RGB sync but I could be mistaken and am trying to confirm. I can only find the PAL service manual still looking for NTSC. If anyone happens to have that please forward. I do know that for my c64 Kawari Analog RGB setup I am pulling sync from luma into that monitor.

Thanks Simius. I will absolutely remove the second line. As noted in my message to you I believe there may be a difference in the PAL vs NTSC 1084S-D1 units when it comes to Analog RGB sync but I could be mistaken and am trying to confirm. I can only find the PAL service manual still looking for NTSC. If anyone happens to have that please forward. I do know that for my c64 Kawari Analog RGB setup I am pulling sync from luma into that monitor.

Today I finished my Sophia v2 install which has xRGB and DVI. Analog RGB sync worked fine into RT5x but my NTSC Commodore 1084s-d1 was not taking to csync. After some experimenting I found combining both sync lines into csync output did the job but I have no idea why. I used to have the GTIAdigitizer in this machine but prefer this setup as it is “all-in-one”. Another thing I noticed in the install was that the machined pin heads on the Sophia don’t really like to stay in the stock socket. I may need to swap that out for better grip at some point. Also I like that mini HDMI board someone shared and will look in to going that route for dvi/hdmi.

So I ordered from TBA and can be removed from the preorder queue if that is a thing still.

Did your glitch look anything like these pics? I got this on my 4-port shortly after doing the power mod and the UAV. Worked great for an hour after the mod then wouldn't get past logo screens. Shortly after that just black screen. I have a working 2-port and was able to swap all chips including RAM and the problem persisted. I kind of gave up on fixing mine considering I have a working 2-port, the voltages seemed normal and all chips worked in the 2-port without issue. Frustrating for sure though. Good luck.

Hey @the_crayon_king, any update? Looking forward to it.

What is up with the “white female” references? Suggestion: for the English packaging have someone who is a native speaker review and edit it for you. The porn aspect is funny enough for some I guess but this “white female” stuff just comes across as creepy and bigotous.

This one (the cheapest I could find) https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPwDhtS I can’t notice any lag.

Here is the link to the project. https://github.com/c0pperdragon/LumaCode/wiki/TIAdigitizer-(for-Atari-2600)

I have been helping c0pperdragon test his upcoming TIAdigitizer board and am happy to say that with the persistence of c0pperdragon through some challenging issues along with the help of Ian of the RGBTOHDMI project it is looking good that this will actually go to production. I decided to put the whole setup directly into this old Vader I originally AV modded back around 2000 (I've improved a bit since then 😜). This required changing out the regulator for more amperage and also adding a (relatively) cheap HDMI audio embedder from AliExpress as RGBTOHDMI does not do audio. There is still a big mess of wires inside that needs to be tidied up and things need to be secured better. If you like crispy pixels as an option when not doing CRT it looks pretty fantastic. Currently there are a few titles that resulting in temporary screen blanking when they change scanlines in-game but the vast majority of classics and homebrew work just fine. The significance of this depends on the display. This Vader still has the UAV in it so analog is still an option anyway.

Here's a few Atari 8bit specific output photos. IPS displays don't photograph well but this gives you a general idea.

The Atari 8bit device is now on v2 after TheRetroChannel uncovered an issue with v1. That said, the issue even on v1 had very minor implications and I was using it for weeks without noticing a problem on games. I not have one of these devices in an 800xl, Atari 5200, c64c and c128. The 2600 version is looking promising and should be ready for roll out soon. For 2600 I am looking to do an all-in-one build including an audio embedder.