KLund1

WOW, I thought there would be more activity, thoughts and ideas on this topic. (I guess everyone with a 1400XL and 1450XLD has a good case and badges to do match) But more likely they have found alternative sources for these case badges. That would be great !! The more sources the better !! I hope they will share with the Great Atari Community !

I'll keep this in mind for when I get the others made. I can ask and get some numbers. Do you have an exact length and width, and position to start print. This material dose not bend well. Going over the far sides may be an issue to consider.

Correct, Helpful items for proof on owning a 1400XL. Thx

Sure but there is a size difference in length. My badges are only 2 couple inches wide. 1050/1088 might need to be much longer, 8-9 inches? Still want to add 1088XLD to the list?

Hi ALL I have the means to do a run of replacement badges for silvery badged machines. I have requests for 1450XLD and 1400XL's. I have a few 1200XL badges listed on ebay I'll selling at my cost, plus real shipping. Take a look to see what they are like. https://www.ebay.com/itm/305517582224 Please reply with requests and if there are enough, I will get all requested badges done. (it's not whats on the badges, but the number of badges) For any requesting 1400XL badges, I will need proof you actually have one. I do not want any rebadged 1200's suddenly showing up for sale? (you all know the story of what Atari employees did with trashed 1400's?) I get can get other numbers on the badges so do not limit this to the above only. 1050, 1090, 600X, 800XL, etc They will all be in the font, and pitch, and physical size as the ebay listing for this possible run. Oh, the prices will probably be a little higher than when I had the ebay listed ones made year+ ago. I do not know exactly, but I'd guesstimate 8-10%, fyi. Thanks

I found an 810 that has no daughter board on the side card. The daughter card socket has a INS1771N-1 installed There is also a 2716 open window eprom. I dumped the Rom and attached it below. I did a compare to 810 Rom B and almost every byte is different. But I am not good with any of that. The oldest chip on this side card is Week 21 1980. It will not boot a DOS II known good disk. It tries, It can find a couple sectors and then fails. The power board, early version, and drive mechanism tested good with a standard side card. I thought I'd better post it here for you smarter then me Atari pro's so you might be able to shed some light on what I have. Thanks 810 Rom.BIN

That is great info and links! Just what I needed!! Very much appreciated !

I am looking for some ROM's BIN files for a plain standard 1050 drive I looked around in here in AA and could not find any. But a lot of talk about moded Roms I found this through an AA thread but the links are dead for J K L Roms https://www.realdos.net/MegaDownload.html I found roms that are inside on ATR file. No go for me at this time. I'm assuming that those are the 'standard' roms Which is best for plain old standard 1050's. Or is there better roms what do not need additional mods to work? Thanks

Thanks both of you. I appreciate the replies. Audiolabga.com seems to only have flat and square belts. I think 410 need round belts. I have not tested square belts on rounded pulleys. Will they work, or wear down quickly?

Hi I have a 4 belt 410 that I need new belts for. I found below in another thread. And I assume they are round belts? But I have no idea where to buy these belts in the USA. CPC seems to be a UK firm, and these are not available anyway. Console5 is still out of stock, and BEST has NOS that are just too old and will probably break soon. I have purchased several cassette belt lots from china on ebay. None have belts that fit, except the small counter belt (not listed below) I did find the 97mm belt but at $14 each plus $13 to ship seems ridiculous to me. I have asked this on other threads but no replies so I am starting a new one. On another thread I found this link for drive wheel rubber replacements https://www.lowes.com/pd/Danco-11-16-in-Rubber-Washer/3712656 Any help from Atari Pros out there? Thanks Report Posted April 7, 2016 I'm not well equipped to estimate whether a 1mm difference in size will be bad for my tape unit. Will tiny differences in size make a big difference? Assuming these numbers are correct (I have not ordered belts yet, but I am in the process of trying to source these), the size in inches should be: Rewind: 3.82" x 1.2mm (0.47") Fast Forward: 4.45" x 1.1mm (0.43") Play: 7.91" x 1.2mm (0.47") The CPC part numbers no longer appear to be accurate. And there don't seem to be corresponding sizes in stock for all of those.

anyone some additional ideas ?

Thanks I did that. I got several sets, none with proper sizes or shapes. If you know of a specific set that would work from aliexpress, please post a link

HI, bringing back to life an older topic. I need some belts for a 4-belt version 410. Concole5 is still out of belts, and the several sets of cheap belts from ali-epress that were each different did not have the right sizes; too thin, too short, too long, or too wide. Anyone have a source for correct belts as of 3/11/2024? Side Q; So there is the original carry handle version(one with and one without power cord) - 2 belts And there is a 2 belt, and a 3 belt, and a 4 belt version of the later, slightly smaller and rounded corners, and more numerous 410's ? If so, how to tell them apart? Thanks

I pulled out my 825's to give them a once over. Having them side by side for the first time, I noticed that they are significantly different on the inside. Has this been documented elsewhere before? (side Q; what is a good replacement for the deteriorating foam?)

I have an early AII with a rev 0 keyboard. most of the keyboard switches are not working. A few on each row work so it is not the chips on the PCB. I tested them all with an Ohm meter, and marked which are not working. I have tried DeOxit D5 on one, pressed 50 times, no change. Electronics contact cleaner on another, pressed 50 times, no change. Compressed air on a third, and the the two after I already tested them,, pressed 50 times none worked. I submerged in ISO,, pressed 50 times, let dry, no change. I reflowed the solder joints, no change. I took one apart and polished all the copper inside and reassembled. That is NO EASY task. Start to finish took about 3 hours for one switch! Almost lost both tiny springs several times! And it still did not work. (not working I mean by testing with an ohm meter, not powering up the AII) I saw people using an ultrasonics cleaner for their cherry key switches and it seemed to work great. Would that work for these switches? Thoughts, ideas, suggestions ?? Thanks