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Bratwurst

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  • Birthday 01/01/1910

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  1. They're probably standard tactile switches with the square pegs clipped off, they come molded in yellow as well as black. I think the color denotes a different rating of pressure-force. I got a bunch myself some time ago from Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832701258721.html
  2. Getting some slight Kung Fu Heroes (NES) and Mendel Palace (NES) vibes from the presented material so far, which I really like.
  3. Printing the model on its side so the rods are parallel to the build plate will probably give the FDM the best fighting chance imo.
  4. ABS is even worse than PLA for tensile strength in printing parts with thin shapes. The durability of ABS only comes in printed parts that are large with thick walls or by injection molding. It's possible that acetone vape smoothing the piece would make it strong enough for the JagCD application though. SLS is still probably going to be the best way to go, look for a service online that offers HP Multi Fusion Jet. At the most you'll probably be paying $20 shipped for a couple of these pegs, if that's 'too much' I should point out that owning and operating a JagCD (or Jaguar anything) these days shouldn't be considered a 'cheap' pastime anyway.
  5. Note that FDM printing ain't really gonna cut it with the previously posted STL, the pegs are probably too small in diameter to have any meaningful strength to them. I would suggest SLS (laser sintered nylon) or something similar. Even better if you can have the thing CNC routed out of solid aluminum.
  6. What DC-DC voltage regulator do you recommend using these days for the 7800, @-^CrossBow^- ? Also this is the first I'm seeing of a mount board add-on for the UAV. I must investigate.
  7. I don't have a 5200 to reference but I think you're going to see voltage drop through a resistor because that's what they are about. A bad or failed resistor would be obvious also, either blown out open/charred black or out of spec (high) resistance for the color code.
  8. Look up the transistor markings for a datasheet. If I'm reading the 2-port schematics right that is a 3904 for the video circuit which should be 5v. Would not hurt to check C11, C116, C19 and any other nearby capacitors mylar or tantalum for possible shorts to ground.
  9. Pull all 4 ICs, get readings for 5v point on each socket. If the voltage is coming back normal while empty populate each socket one at a time and then check 5v for each one, you might be able to isolate which chip is bad. If you're still getting low reads when the sockets are empty then you have a fault somewhere in the board.
  10. It's still available as a publicly accessible project: ProNES Adapter http://www.tailchao.com/ProSystem/index.php Perhaps a more involved project than most hobbyists might be used to pulling together since it requires programming PICs. I should make my own sometime.
  11. In case the following information helps for your reference, I've had some of the clone 6-button controllers sent my way to repair in the past, generally the fault lay in the ribbon cable bridging the two PCBs having a few broken wires where it's soldered in, but I did find the following in my notes: My suggestion if you can't find obvious breaks in traces or no failed continuity in the controller cable is to replace both 74HC04D and 74HC14D with Toshiba branded ICs, the manufacturer probably went with generic knockoffs that would be less reliable. Edited in note: Manufacturer in this context would be the overseas factory that assembled those controllers for Starwander, not Starwander himself.
  12. I would love to know what the return percentage was on purchases for the 2600+ because of client-side 'issues' like this. Those that do make their way back to retailer probably end up as e-waste.
  13. Zelda collector nerds are insane. This is the 'gold' version I believe. https://www.pricecharting.com/game/nintendo-64/zelda-ocarina-of-time-collector's-edition
  14. Wow. Those are beautiful. Do you have a preference or have you noticed an improvement in play with either the large & small aluminum knobs versus the lighter plastic one?
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