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Spazmonkey

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Moonsweeper

Moonsweeper (5/9)

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  1. Any recommendations on such a transcoder? I'm looking for an NTSC solution that is better than the general RCA output I have. If your handy you can make your own out of a JROK, or a NEOBITZ, I recommend the neobitz. If you look on ebay, there exists ones premade that convert RGB to component. I have one, and it works very well, they run about $40.
  2. Another bump because I added more things. Sorry for all the bumps guys, but this time it's significant I guess.....
  3. Another bump. Willing to cut a good deal since it's not in the best physical shape.
  4. The jack outputs composite on pin 2. Also, it outputs RGB, and if you ground pin four, it puts out monochrome on pin 11, which is the proper scan rate for typical VGA monitors. EDIT: What I meant to say was, the jack can output a bunch of things, so who knows which one your referring to. But it certainly can do much better than composite.
  5. A note, no shipping is included on anything. Hello everyone. I just finished this up and want to sell it so I can buy an EPROM burner. So, let's get down to whats actually been done to it. -Installed an LTC1799 so the gameboy can be fed variable speeds. The chip acts as an oscillator that can be controlled with a potentiometer, rather cool. I have some spare chips if anyone wants just that, they are a little less wide than a pencil eraser head, and as thick as a credit card. I can put them onto a little breadboard so it has nice big solder pads if your scared of soldering to something that small, but still want to DIY. Really cool for pokemon, you can run like lightening, the bike is like warp speed, and generally, the game is much more enjoyable at the faster pace. Also, stuff like mario is pretty cool slower for tough parts, you can make it faster for speed runs, loads of applications. -Added a switch to toggle between normal, and the new oscillator. The switch is also lit with a bright blue SMD LED so you know when it's in the new mode - Prosound audio jack, this goes without saying It may look like I put the potentiometer right where the speaker is, but the speaker was relocated elsewhere, so it's still there. Only defect is the screen, it has a few vertical lines on the each edge. Nothing in the middle though, so it's still completely usable. I can trim the potetiometer post to be shorter at buyers request. I can also install this module in another model of gameboy, or even many other variants of handhelds. If you are interested, please pm me, and we can work it out. Only trades I would be interested in are other gameboys, and broken SP's. Photoshoot and video: Here's more stuff, first up, an Intellivision model 2. I found it with no power button or LED, so I got down to work! The square button is the power one, and in the small hole is a shiny new blue LED. That other smaller button allows coleco game compatibility. Enjoy the smaller compact Intellivision 2, without the loss of all those wonderful coleco games . Once the game loads up and the weird screen shows up, press and hold the button for a second and the game boots right up. There were also a bunch of problems with the rf modulator, but I fixed them up and it works as good as most intellivision rf's, which isn't saying much It also comes with four controllers. I'm looking for $32 plus shipping, and if you need games, I have a bazillion extra commons CIB. Okay, next is this nice little 5200 lot, it has one shrinkwrapped game, but it's been opened at the top, so just consider it a nice CIB game. I'm looking for $10. The titles are Star Raiders, Pac-man, Centipede (with overlay), Football, Q-Bert, Soccer, and Baseball (with overlay). Last is a little game for the Watara Supervision called Aliens. I don't have a Watara Supervision, so I have no clue how good this game is or what it's about. $7 and it's yours.
  6. Well, I would be interested in the bare 32x unit, and I know people generally are missing the proper in between cords. Nice CIB games.
  7. Is the SeGaGaGa the big fancy box set? I always wondered how neat the extras are.
  8. No, like most video game consoles, it's a picofuse. They look very much like resistors, so that's maybe why you didn't notice it at first. Hell, I didn't notice it until I was tracing the voltage input of the console and stumbled across a boldly labeled "fuse" spot. Aha!that explains it,so they have to be soldered in then right? Yeah, although it would be very easy to install the little holders for glass fuses on top of the solder pad. But if you go through all that trouble, how many times do you expect to blow the dang thing.
  9. No, like most video game consoles, it's a picofuse. They look very much like resistors, so that's maybe why you didn't notice it at first. Hell, I didn't notice it until I was tracing the voltage input of the console and stumbled across a boldly labeled "fuse" spot.
  10. I got it for free when I picked up a five dollar 1040STE. It had no PSU or SID, because the guy took the SID for a SID2SID interface he bought. So I said what they hey and took it. I was actually researching and found it's very easy to convert a c64 to utilize either version of the SID, but I'm still looking to pick up a cheap one, or nab a cheap computer off ebay and have them just yank the SID for me so I can save on shipping. I need to make a solid PSU as well..... Busy busy busy.
  11. I was just joking about the value thing. The Inty gets a lot of bad press around here and people like to talk smack about it. What I was thinking was that perhaps a solder point didn't get the wire to touch the board enough to contact (called a contact point I believe, right?). First thing I always do when soldering after something doesn't test right is re-check the solder points to make sure the solder is actually forming a proper connection between component and board. Well, regardless of whether or not I have a cold joint, I'm saying that wouldn't hinder the console from turning on. I'm thinking something shorted, so I'm going to probe around the power board, likely a transistor or the 7805 went out, but who knows, which is why I asked. It was a blown fuse, however I don't know what value to replace it with, I jumped the points and it worked, but I don't want to screw it up even more next time. I'm going to google the schematic, but if anyone knows, that would be great. EDIT: Found it, 2 amps. Going to get some from the shack later. Yay happy ending.
  12. I was just joking about the value thing. The Inty gets a lot of bad press around here and people like to talk smack about it. What I was thinking was that perhaps a solder point didn't get the wire to touch the board enough to contact (called a contact point I believe, right?). First thing I always do when soldering after something doesn't test right is re-check the solder points to make sure the solder is actually forming a proper connection between component and board. Well, regardless of whether or not I have a cold joint, I'm saying that wouldn't hinder the console from turning on. I'm thinking something shorted, so I'm going to probe around the power board, likely a transistor or the 7805 went out, but who knows, which is why I asked.
  13. Missing from where? The console doesn't power on any more, and nothing is being shorted. I think it may be the 7805, or the red thing that looks like a 7805. I know the PSU is good. Well, it is value lost because I wanted to mod it a sell the thing it was just sitting in the closet. I should have quit while I was ahead......
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