Silntdoogood

I'm told they were working when they went in to storage 20-some years ago. Drives were tested with an Atari 520STfm and a German STe. They spin their motors endlessly and are loud. I am unsure what volume they normally run at, or if system regionality is a factor. Neither system can detect drives, but one drive did responds to the ST's seek/power reset command while the other does not. Asking $50 each, OBO. Buyer pays shipping from Philly. This listing is cross posted to other platforms.

Resolved. The power supply had failed preventing the game from booting. The cab was also mis-wired with the power supply on the same circuit as the screen, behind the isolation transformer. The feedback was affecting the screen.

Hope this is posted in the correct place. I am working on restoring two games made by World VendingCompany. One looks to be all original, but we're still working on the locks, the other was converted to Donkey Kong. Neither game boot or display correctly. After adjusting the screen, the below image is the best I can get. The vhold is just stuck in the middle of the screen, and they edges flicker. It looks like a cap issue to me. I can't find any markings on the screens board to help identify it. The other issue is with the game. It is stuck on the test pattern, and doesn't change past the characters it shows when it boots. This page is the ONLY thing I can find on it, so if anyone has insight, I'm all ears. https://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=8199

The one I'm trying desperately to get running is Kung Fu, but it isn't hosted there. How can I determine the ROM version when downloading from other hosts?

I have an arcade cab running GroovyMAME v0.148, freshly updated with the 2018 linux build. This resolved SO MANY ISSUES. Unfortunately it created a new one. About half my game library refuses to launch. The screen goes black for a second they it exits the game. A few even try launching with the wrong name. I've copied ROMS that were working, as well as re-downloaded fresh. The problem persists. From what I've read, my problem is either in the ROM version, or a BIOS problem. Running STELLA and other simple emulators I've never hit a problem like this. The digital side of emulation is a little bit of an enigma to me. Can anyone point me to some plain-English explanations on these configurations?

Just posting for future reference, if anyone is taking up a similar update and needs a small 4:3 screen: I found an iPad display worked great! eBay had driver boards to connect HDMI - in, and the whole assembly is super thin! Added a plexy protector to the assembly and it was good to go!

About 10 years ago I was given a this old laptop. When I received it, it ALMOST kind of worked. It was unable to boot. It came up with a boot error, regardless of what drive, disk, or OS it was given. It also crashed every three minutes or so. The years have not been kind, and now it refuses to try. My original game plan was to rebuild it for DOS games, but now I’m looking to take a more MAME approach. The current display is a Sanyo lcm-5494. It’s a monochrome display. I can’t find a spec sheet, or ANY further information on. I’m looking to replace it with something newer and colored so I can update the machine. I’m thinking of rebuilding it to function like an HDMI PC stick dock, so it won’t outdate. Ideally, I need a 9.5” color LCD display with a controller and orientation of 4:3. I’d settle for a 9” display. Any new displays around these measurements are usually 16:9. Using a 16:9 display will either leave better than an inch gap in the display window, or force me to use a larger display and cut out the frame to accommodate. Insult to injury, a 16:9 display would break the vintage feel to the machine. The best lead I can find was Magnavox made small 4:3 TVs well in to the HD era, but I can’t find one under 15”. If anyone has any leads on a display, it would be greatly appreciated! This is a project a decade in the planning and I’d like to get it off the ground!

Did you get an answer yet? I'm out of state at the moment, but when I go back to see family for Thanksgiving I can crack my old 1224 open and take my best stab at identifying the diode, hopefully mine would be in less crispy shape.

Hey all! Sorry I failed miserably at keeping up with this post! I had an emergency that came up shortly after posting, then was laid off from the job that was prompting me to move, and clean out my storage locker. I never did recycle it. To answer the location question (better late than never, right?) it’s in PA. No disposal ultimatum if nobody wants it, but the offer still stands if there’s interest. I’d just look to get reimbursed for shipping.

Hey all, I started this project two years ago, some things came up and it's sat for a while. The last week I've found some time and made some major progress. I'm using a 4:3 15khz monitor with an adjusted graphic card. Most games run fine, but vertical games have a bad vertical scrolling issue. A few scroll, but not as bad. I think they may be 1:1, or something close to 4:3. The in game menu under [tab]->display doesn't do anything. The first two entries in the menu are "4:3" and "1:1 pixel scaling" but I can't seem to change them. Does any one have any experience with 2012's Groovy Arcade's MAME UI?

Picked this little guy up at a yard sale a few years ago. 1980’s wood paneling complemented my 2600 well. It’s about a 12” screen. I’m moving around and it’s just too bulky to keep in storage. I thought I’d make a quick post here, see if anyone is looking for an era screen for their system, before it goes to Bestbuy for recycling.

I hope no one minds an update on an old post. I received some friendly advice from an art restoration company on proper uses of acetone and some other methods to help strip the outside paint off. I've got one side roughly done. I'm probably going to use the exposed paint as a template to repaint the original work back. I purchased the original game board on ebay, but it needs a little TLC. Some diodes are smashed/ removed, a row of DIP switches needs replaced, but I have the original board! A marquee cycled up on ebay, but I missed it, and I'm watching a bezel, but the seller has a hold on it no one can seem to reasonably bid above...it just keeps getting resisted. I ended up frying the screen chassis (sad times) and spent months gathering information and trying to fix it. I know it failed because of a faulty isolation transformer. I tested all fuses, diodes & resistors - Good. The way the screen was collapsing, I originally thought it was a HOT problem, it wasn't. Checked the other transistors – Good. Put it back together to try to take some readings and realized there's no neck glow like I thought there was.... SO, retested all diodes, resistors & fuses, found one bad resistor which traces in to the high-voltage parts of the board. I talked with some people who said my problem sounded like a high-voltage unit failure, and wouldn't be worth it to fix. I gave up. I'm keeping the board for parts (maybe a restoration) and ordered a new chassis PLUS new isolation transformer. My question for anyone with experience, do I put the isolation transformer between power and the screen, or between power and EVERYTHING? I am not risking this same failure a second time. I can't afford it. If anyone can link to some reputable wiring advice, I'd appreciate it too!

GOOD NEWS EVERYONE! I had a friend over to collaborate thoughts on restoration. Wiring, woodworking, and so on. I tried to pull a paint chip off to match, so I can repaint. I had a little blue and red showing. While picking at it, the wrong paint came off, so we picked some more off, and finally... Just about the time I think this thing is out of surprises, I find something new! There is a gloss finish that the new paint didn't properly bond. The black splotches above aren't missing paint, it's just black not yet removed. Retrieving the original sides looks possible! If anyone has suggestions, I'm open. There are are few points I did some damage to the original, but I don't thing it's all that avoidable. Right now I'm just using a credit card on the easy parts. The warm parts of the cab have bonded the paint better, and are much harder to separate, I was using a nickle there.

Some careful glue work should make up for that. It's still gripped pretty well, there's just huge gashes in it. I really like this selection, and don't know if I should go back to the textured black, or metallic, or green. Thanks, this site is bookmarked and will see some traffic from me! I ended up ordering the ArcadeVGA card, rather than trying to find a signal converter. From what I read, this should fly with the current monitor, so determining EGA YUV RGB CGA is less of a concern.(...unless this doesn't work when it comes in.)

Thanks for the support!! From what I'm reading, the side decals to the original cab were just stenciled and airbrushed. A tiny chunk of red I thought was paint scraped form something else, I now think is actually original to the cab, and I'm going to carefully chip it off to have the original color matched! I want to stencil the design back on. Most of the wood is rather sound, but what isn't, is bad, and I don't know how I'm going to fix it yet. It was made with two different woods. The back that crumbled off was particle board, which basically absorbed/held moisture like a sponge and self destructed. The rest of the cab is plywood and held up much better on almost the entire cab except the bottom, where so much has eroded away, it doesn't sit even. The floor of the cab is not breached. I think I'm going to flip it over, try to cut off that wood along the green line, and glue on new...almost, "treads", of wood? Just something an inch or two high, the thickness of the original board to run the length of the machine, then sand&paint it to match. (If that description makes sense) The red line is where the bottom of the board should be. The other side in on the ground, this side needs a brick in the back, and a brick and a half to get close to sitting even. I appreciate the light offer, I may need that, I'm missing one bulb, the other I've yet to test, still no power to the sockets. I think I'm also going to set the control panel aside, and start one from scratch. Something I can add extra buttons, maybe a player2 joystick, without tearing apart the wiring and re-drilling the original, if I ever get the chance for a restoration. Also, does anyone know where to get this plastic edging, or a name for it? It's really beat up. (Also, shows how much wood is gone, this edging reaches past the brick and wood,still drags on the floor) Edit: as for the connection, I think I'm just going to assume its RGB and order parts...see what happens. I don't know anything about EGA YUV RGB CGA to know the difference, but a talk with a local electronic repair man (who was rather rude about the whole conversation) has me a little more comfortable in the decision. I think as long as I step the screen down to the proper level and don't distort the aspect ratio TOO much, I think it'll be good. I just can't run a passive VGA connection (easily).