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Satoshi Matrix

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  1. the power requirements of the 5200 are 9.3v DC at 1.95 Amps center pin positive. This is overkill; 9v 1 Amp is just fine. The thing you need to pay attention to is finding a jack that will fit and provide the correct polarity. The 5200 isn't like the 7800 which needs its own unique power supply.
  2. Of the options, digital is the only one that truly makes sense. Gamers today wouldn't tolerate the prices of the AES cartridges or the lengthy load times of the CD releases.
  3. I feel a tad strange to bump a topic from 2002 but here I am. I'm a proud owner of a 5200 trackball that evidently has never been cleaned. There's filthy and then there's whatever was going on with this. I've used a vacuum, an old toothbrush, quite a bit of paper towel and isopropyl to get it at least 75% cleaner than it initially was. I placed the bearings in vinegar and let them remove a ton of rust. The problem that I'm finding is that the roller bearings have long since long whatever lubrication. I've tried spraying contact cleaner in them but I am not getting much if any response from the entire Y axis bearing that the plastic wheel passes through. What would be a suggestion on how to lubricate it, and clean inside the black plastic parts where the wheels make contact? I would love to play Missile Command and Centipede with this, but as it is only Space Invaders could be played.
  4. Our current measurements indicate that a 4-port 5200 with switchbox, and an AtariMax cartridge, draws under 900mA. Standard cartridges will draw even less power. Measurements with VCS adapter have not yet been tested. Wow. Dang, then 2 Amps is way overkill. All I need then is 1 Amp. I've have to dig through my power supplies to see if I have something. I thought I had to give it a 9v at 2 Amps, which is not very common.
  5. Sorry to bump such an old thread, but I'm new to the 5200 and also have a loud, buzzy OEM power supply. The power supply does have screws, but I'm wondering if bothering to take it apart to make it quieter would be worth it. What about instead, using a modern regulated power supply? I don't have a 9.3v 2 Amp center positive PSU with a connector that will fit, but I do have a modern regulated power supply that outputs 12v 2 Amps center pin positive. Would that be safe to use?
  6. Yeah...then these are probably not repairable then, if the rubber gaskets AND the pots are bad. Boo. but that's how it goes I guess.
  7. On another topic, I have six 5200 controllers and I'd like to restore as many as possible. One of them fully works. One works, but the keypad does not. Three more work but one of the directions on the analog stick do not work on each. Last one does not work at all no matter what I press. The worst two of them have their rubber gaskets torn, making them extremely loose. Does anyone else an aftermarket replacement for this rubber gasket? I need at least two - a third one still has it, but its torn. I've seen replacements for the buttons and keypad as well as replacement flex circuits, but not what these ones need most. Am I just SOL here?
  8. Whoops! Sorry I didn't make it clear - I have a faulty 4 port and a cosmetically damaged but functional 2 port. So I do have a working 5200. The set of games I have all work with it, except for Galaxian. which is why I was wondering if Galaxian might be known to not work with 2 port systems. but it sounds like instead my particular cart seems to have gone bad! Buying two systems netted me a small collection of games that came with them. My current games: Centipede Defender Dig Dug Frogger Galaxian (doesn't work) Kangaroo Mario Bros. Missile Command Ms. Pac-Man Pac-Man Pole Position Popeye Q*bert Qix Realsports Football Realsports Soccer Star Raiders Star Trek Strategic Operations Simulator Super Breakout So far, my favorites are Defender, Missile Command and Centipede. Mario Bros. on 5200 looks much nicer than the 2600 version, but it's choppy. I wonder, do people overclock their 5200s? Is that a thing to make 5200 Mario Bros. run better? haha
  9. Oh I wish that was the case. Sadly, I'm in Canada. With shipping, taxes and import fees, that would be about $36 US, which is around $50 CAD. Hard to justify shopping on ebay these days. That is very kind. I am very interested in your offer any any other 5200 games you might have for sale. I'm brand new to the 5200.
  10. I've taken it apart and did a second cleaning just to make sure. I also followed your advice about inserting it all the way, wiggling it, etc. Each and every time, I get the same "% !*D P08Y" and the year of our lord, 19 #. The cartridge appears to be dead...which is a real shame. I guess I'd have to bite the bullet and buy another copy. Too bad it's not a very common game. Replacing it is going to cost about $30.
  11. I've now tested every game I have (all 19 so far) and the only one that fails to boot on my 2 port is Galaxian. I get this. It was dirty, but I took it apart and cleaned the contacts. Even so, this is still what I get. Is Galaxian not compatible with two port 5200s? Other than cleaning it, I'm not sure what else to do. Any suggestion would be great as I was looking forward to this one a lot.
  12. Still waiting for the replacement RAM to show up. I did, and this didn't help. This 5200 looks virtually new. I highly doubt there is any trace damage. The board looks exceptionally clean. But in other news, I also went and bought a two port unit. It's in terrible cosmetic condition, but it does in fact work. As I have an actual working system, I've gone ahead and ordered an Atarimax flashcart for 5200. Is there a specific controller test program for the 5200? So far, only one out of six 5200 controllers I have seems to be fully functional. I'd like to use a test program to go through all the inputs on the controllers to test which buttons work on which. If there is a test program it would be helpful if anyone could link to where I can find it. Thanks!
  13. Nope. Mine displays the Atari fuji properly. It's only _after_ the bios boot up sequence that I either get a black screen or random garbage. During the actual boot up, everything looks just like it should. Yours appears to have a glitchy Atari fuji.
  14. Absolutely EVERYTHING is socketed! Speaking of, the board says 3482. I assume this means the 34th week of 1982? That would mean that this was manufactured between August 23 - 29, 1982. Since the system came out in November to retail, it should be safe to assume that this is among the very first Atari 5200s ever released. So the DRAM chips are MK4516N-15. 8 of them it looks like. Hm. I wonder if it would make sense to buy 8x old stock of this chip and just swap them? I wonder if that would get this working again...
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