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rasch_C

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About rasch_C

  • Birthday 08/13/1979

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Western Wisconsin
  • Interests
    Classic gaming, music/stereo equip., cars, computers, revitalizing old things, family, friends

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  1. Looks like I did not order this originally. If like to get 1 of the full-size sets. Is the PayPal address still the same and same price? Thank you, Allen
  2. Has anyone heard a firmed expected ship date? They stated on their website they expected to ship in August. On another note, it looks like playasia is releasing the Japanese MD cart? (https://www.play-asia.com/ultracore/13/70cuzj) -Allen
  3. Yeah, there's always some lag/delay between the counter and flipping the switch on for the sale. I believe I run into this with Limited Run as well. You have to just keep hitting refresh when the countdown runs out until you have the add to cart button. Sux that you missed out -Allen
  4. Just received an email from Strictly Limited: THIS IS COMING TO THE GENESIS/MEGA DRIVE!! -Allen
  5. Looks like Strictly Limited just announced release date of April 28 for PS4 and Nintendo Switch. I was hoping the collectors edition (or some variant) would've had the game on Genesis cart, but it only looks like the game on modern console, poster, soundtrack CDs. I am really baffled as to why it is not being released physical for the console it was originally designed. -Allen
  6. I thought Waggie reached out to the original author and got his consent/permission as well. -Allen Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
  7. I had my timescale backwards in my head. At .1 sec (all the way counter-clockwise) is when it shows just the sweeping dot and then 10 Msec is when I see the sweeping signal (the complete trace does not stay lit). It goes dimmer as I continue to go clockwise making it really hard to see. I did just play around some more with it tonight - getting a better feel for the scope. I set to Multiplier 1, 10uS timebase, DC, Negative trigger. Put my Volts/Div at 1 and reading pin 3 of U3 while power is on the trace went up 3 reticles and was a flat line for the complete width - I believe this would be indicating 3 volts? -Allen
  8. I don't know about big spender, but I suppose it is more than the $10 I have into this old Heathkit The Rigol seems like the best value entry-level scope. I could get a used Tek scope or something for less, but I determined that I want to have a modern scope for the kids in the Makerspace and it is more compact. The space is very limited. I tried going to 10us, but the trace was not persistent. You would just start to see the trace go from the left to the right of the screen. At the lower setting you would just see the dot moving from the left to the right. I believe the last pic is at the 1 multiplier. Am I seeing the color-burst at the start of that signal? We are definitely beginners using a scope. I'll see about firing everything up tonight and testing on U3. Thanks again, -Allen
  9. So, now that we're finally out of the -30°F temps .... brrr, that cold caused a lot of issues including taking my internet out for multiple days! After locating all the caps for my old scope and realizing that it would be ~$90, I decided it is not worth it to recap it. I did only spend $10 for it at a hamfest and thought it would be an easy way to get my feet wet. I am planning on buying a Rigol DS1054Z shortly. I decided to breadboard the easy composite mod and temporarily test that to see if I get picture. Still not getting a picture I have attached pics of the signal reading on my scope - it works roughly, but I don't know how well or accurate. -Allen Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
  10. Looks like at this point I'll get my scope up and/or just do the A/V mod. I've been having a heck of a time locating some of the precision caps in the correct specs. I'll spend my night tonight hopefully tracking them down and ordering them now that my laptop is back up, and maybe order an A/V mod. Give some time for parts to come in and I'll report back with either results from a working oscilloscope, or a working console after A/V mod. Thanks again for all your help! It's been a great learning experience. -Allen Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
  11. A couple obvious reworks, and others are questionable. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
  12. I was going to ask about the French of that. I was reading up today on the constriction of an NTSC composite signal and then though about my reading and wondered about the mismatch. So, what I should be reading at this location is in-fact the horizontal frequency? My plan is to composite mod this. So, if the RF modulator is bad, I don't really care. I'm just hoping to verify a working console before modding. -Allen Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
  13. Yes, I have still been working on this, but it's been cold here and the lab is in the garage which is a pain to get up to acceptable working temp w/ my kerosene heater. Also, I have been rebuilding stuck my laptop. I would have to remove the RF box to gain access to it (cover is on the PCB side). I did try pin 3 of the RF-PCB connection to the composite video input of my PVM directly and only had brief interference show up from actual touching of the signal pin. PVM does not indicate lock of signal of any type. This is w/ and w/o cart. I also measured freq. of pin 3 and it varied between ~12.5kHz - ~13.5kHz. I'll have to take pics of the reworked components and post. I do believe you guys are correct about Q4 and even the resistor on the RAM chip (didn't look like a rework to me, I was just curious on that one). There are a few components that have been reworked, however. Thank you, -Allen
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