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Arkanoid_376970

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About Arkanoid_376970

  • Birthday 08/31/1993

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  • Custom Status
    Vintage = Awesome... need i say more?
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Vintage Gaming/Computing
  • Currently Playing
    Shredz64 (C=64)
  • Playing Next
    Fallout New Vegas (PC) if i get it when it comes out :P

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  1. Awesome, thanks! Managed to get it working, but now have to align the head azimuth, the computer keeps going into the 'self test' after trying to load for 10 seconds. I can hear the data streaming in but the volume varies heavily and seems a bit noisy.
  2. UPDATE: I am now able to get the drive to Fast Forward reliably. The Fast Forward leaf switch wasn't making reliable contact, bent it a little and now it works 100% of the time. I am still not able to get my drive to Play, however. Does the drive require a signal over SIO to start playing? If so could this mean a bad connection to the relevant pin on the Atari 600XL or broken SIO cable? From what I can tell by looking at the drive, the Drive actuates a common leaf switch for Play, Fast Forward and Rewind. For Fast Forward and Rewind, this switch is ANDed to determine motor direction. I'm guessing for Play, this switch is ANDed with the command from the computer.
  3. I think there could be an issue with the direction switch, I tried a CLOAD and after a couple of tries, it worked. This was extremely intermittent however and i can not reliably replicate it. The Rewind function works flawlessly but the play and Fast Forward are being weird. Will pull it apart again
  4. Hey, Grabbed a new belt for my XC12 from MagicKnight and installed it today. After re-assembling the drive will Rewind, but will not Fast Forward or Play. I've disassembled the mechanism again and can't see anything preventing the mechanism from driving forward but it still won't. Any tips guys?
  5. Yeah I may end up having to go this route, I'm ok with a soldering Iron so swapping out the Voltage Regulators shouldn't be an issue.
  6. Searches with the local Electronics store (Jaycar) an a bunch of Australian distributors came up with nothing. The local electronics store has a 240V->9A transformer coil capable of handling 3A on the seconary but no AC/AC plugpacks whatsoever. The closest I could find from other distributors was 9VAC at 1.33A. Australia is a ****ing hole when it comes to finding any electronics supplies. I'll probably end up getting the Transformer from Jaycar and making some form of plugpack, would just rather not mess with Mains Electricity.
  7. Thanks for the reply! I was aware that the SNES PSU was way too underpowered to run the 1050, but I don't have any other 9VAC PSU's on hand and wanted to see if it would work at all. Original Atari PSUs and other equipment are extremely hard to come by in Australia, so I was wondering if there is a modern replacement someone here has used successfully.
  8. Hi AA! I finally got my 600XL back up and running, and decided to try getting my 1050 going again after the original PSU I had for it let out the blue smoke. I read somewhere about using a NES/SNES power adapter with it (used my SNES 9VAC adapter from Australia) and it worked somewhat. I was able to intermittently read discs, and was once able to format and duplicate DOS 2.5+ from my SDRIVE. Following this, I tried to format and duplicate YOOMP! to a disc and found that i started getting Errors 144, 139 and sometimes the drive would very quickly flash the activity light when I chose to init or dupe a disk. I noticed that my SNES PSU and the Heat Sink in the Drive were getting a little toasty so I turned everything off. Could the wimpy SNES PSU not be providing enough juice to the 1050 for reliable operation? If this is the case where can I find a replacement PSU for the 1050? Thanks Ark
  9. Only just saw this now, what a fucking joke. Makes me almost ashamed to be an Australian collector (even though i've mostly moved over to Super Famicom due to cost). You'll probably find that some of the bids from new accounts are actually from Rosa trying to boost the price. I've seen it happen way too many times...
  10. Got the first test boards in and tried one out. Looks fantastic on my Commodore Monitor, but a little washed out on my flatscreen TVs, with some minor horizontal striping and color bleed. Any suggestions?
  11. Awesome! I'm glad to hear you got good results.
  12. You should be able to pull the audio directly from the TIA (Pin 13 - AUD0). Make sure to wire in a 1uF Electrolytic Capacitor inline.
  13. Updated the design with RCA jacks and a standard 8 pin header. Played with the placement and routing a little too. Anyone have any suggestions?
  14. Hi AA! I'm considering getting some PAL A/V boards made up at a local PCB fabricator. I've got an earlier version of the board being prototyped at OSH Park for testing, and if they work as they should I'd love to make some and pass them on. These boards are based on the old CD4050 Hex Buffer mod and aren't anything new. This is a surface mount design and I'm happy to populate the boards. Thanks Ark
  15. Ok, finally got it back to 16K configuration (got stuck fixing an Amiga for a few weeks). I'm pretty convinced that the MMU (CO61618) is the culprit. Boots to brown (red?) screen on powerup but quickly changes to black. When the MMU was out of the machine, the screen stayed brown. I suspect the MMU is faulty and when installed is messing with a reset line. Ark
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