Jump to content

Zagroseckt

Members
  • Posts

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Zagroseckt's Achievements

Space Invader

Space Invader (2/9)

1

Reputation

  1. thanks for the Welcome :) this is a nice place to spend some time and i'm getting project ideas now to get the stuff to DO the projects hehe

  2. Welcome, MaximumRD here, glad you made it!

  3. eather the diode is going or eather theres a cap going someplace... check the power supply first.
  4. how much ya wana bet it's a noisy pot. you can repair most carbon pots but it's fiddly brakes down to cleaning the carbon slide on the pot and the armacher. if you don't want to take the pots apart get some 90% robbing alcohol big bottle submerge the pcb w/pots and turn turn turn *edit*/ i dont mean spin the whole pcb in the liquid turn the pots as if they were being spun by the joystick *edit*/ move them around allot. make sure the liquid gets in it. Then blowdry the board to get most of the alcohol out. let it sit on a windowsill or somthing for a day to evaporate anything else this should knock off most of the dirt/debry from the slide assembly in the pot. Providing there is still good contact pressure between the armicher and the slide/contact this will repair it.
  5. You'd be better off just making a flatout famecom to NES adapter. the only thing you need to overcome is the lockout pin 60pin connector on one end 70 on other and a connector for a real cart (you conect the lockout pins from a US cart)or a lockout chip on the adapter. no more need to kill NES carts. Electrickly there is NO difference from the famecom and NES carts just 2 different slot configuration. and in the front loader nes a lockout chip.
  6. Now if your blowing the Analog to digital board's on the TV i'd look at the console to make sure it's not bleeding DC or excesive AC into the line. if your using RF there should be no problem considering most cable lines now carry 32/64V AC along with the tv picture. isolation has ben in play for decades. If your worried about your TV just use a video switch. a good one. somthing that filters and boosts or regulats the signal. not just a pass through VCR's come in handy for this. they tend to not be as ficle as the tv itself and you can recorde your gameplay If all else fails. build a jack pack. the simplest of wich is your composet RCA with a 50ohm resister on the center post may cause some older games to dim tho. you can go farther if you want. For RF Use a non physical coupling .. or isolation circuit. Basickly 2 inductors verry close to each other. inside a shilded cage/box easy to setup. and build yourself. helps protect both the console and the tv from harmonic transferince .. note i sed helps dosnt compleatly remove youd need some kind of optical isolation to remove. but stops DC transfer and buffers out alot of high end and midband ac flowback that can disrupt some ic's in newer sets or older fickle consoles. (the ac hum is of so little aperige its the interferince that causes all the disruption and this week interrferince wich can not normely even be seen is removed by the gap.
  7. First off there is no way to burn in an LCD tv they simply do not work that way.... An LCD TV im simply a collection of windows to a white defuser for the backlight there is NO way to burn in pixels on a LCD The only Displays that suffer burn in are... O-LED Organic LED. where sections can apear dimmer if ran constently. this can be cleard up with a negitive imige or statick Plasma Sections can and DO slightly fade or "burn in" on older sets (early 2000-2003) and reeeely cheep sets this problem can get verry notesible but for the most part does not effect viewing while the set it running. Corection is again a negitive flip or static or a cycle through R.G.B with each color cycling in 4hr increments. White will not wipe the mild shadow. Newer plasmas May show a shadow on power down of a static image but will disapate even in the worst case situations withing hours of running a moving picture. This is due to improved fosphers .. O-LED's havent quite gotten to that point except in prototype stages. CRT Cathode Ray Tube --- Bubble sets --- boob tubes --- old school --- The only CRT's that are effected by burning are single fospher displays. The worst burn in in a CRT system most commenly shows up in projection 3 tube sets when one of the 3 tubes has had a static full birhgt imige on it for extended time. this can leave a discolord in the image or even cause the convergince of one tube to fall out of spec bugger up a whole section of the screen. The RGB Cycling trick dosnt work all that well on tri tube projection sets it can fix it but you'll be retuning the color for weeks Single tube projection sets can also be effected to a lesser extent These to can be fixed by a static or color temp calabration (cycling through R.G.B err ya and old Black and white tv's can shaddow/burn in The ONLY LCD issue i can think of that would even remotely be considerd burn in has to deal with LCD projectors. all be it not quite true burn in if a section is black or dark for extended time while the rest of the screen is white or light when the imige flips those sections of the screen that has built up heat (blocking light) can bleed light through when the picture go's dark. Or in worse case it can warp or even melt the LCD cell if there isnt enough airflow in the display DLP's do not suffer from any of this. There just a crap load of mirrors and a spinning color disc (or if your rich or save up) 3 sepret light sorces and 3 sepret DLP chips Laser DLP and Laser scan projection. DLP. no mirrors again there not effected. Scan projection ok i just had an internal image of the word GAME OVER catching fire on the wall. but no ... not effected by burn in at all. Well... You do get diode ware but then you have a whole color being dim not a shadow mask of somthing. and this ware will happen over the life of the unit regardless of use. And thats that i think i've coverd all the in use display tech out there. oh for those still wondering in CRT tv's why burn-in was never realy much of an isue its becos of the refresh rate of the raster line. a large crt or small one at the beam strength used just dosnt heat up the fosphers to there brakedown point.
  8. Well there is one console... I got an X-Box (original) for one game. Splinter Cell . It defined a whole new realm of gaming for me. I'm harible at twich games. I simply dont have the visual responce for it wich kind of put me out for most console shoot em up games doom quake exct. Splinter cell on the other hand was sneeky slow perfection. i loved it.. 1st game on xbox and the last (splinter cell double agent) unfortunately i never actuily got to play double agent for the oginal xbox bought it then moved and lost it.. i now have it for the PC but the %$@%@ thing wont use any of my pc's joysticks. After buying SC for the Xbox and playing it to death. I moded the xbox. I did get other tytles for the xbox but only do to the fact i ownd it all ready and the games were cheep Note bought the xbox on release day for Splinter Cell .. Now the most EXPINSIVE thing i've bought just to play a game was!! Drum role An MPEG decoder for my 486 DX33 to play Dragons layer at around 600Bucks. Side note. After selling off my moded xbox (i still have a few xboxes i ended up colecting them broke for moding and i have 4 or 5 working (as of last test) units in storige.) i found the double agent disk about 30 minuts after buying it for the PC go figure.
  9. Well then we should comunicate a bit my skype contact is zagroseckt (no caps) i do have msn/windowslive under Zagroseckt. if your going to contact me that way let me know i dont genrily leave it running but i will power it up for the day (plays sillybuggers with another program i use.)
  10. image i pulled off a website of a scanned overlay. Would Anyone be interested in A. A Tutorial on how to make strong Overlay Reproductions. B. Would it be worth it to do say a small run of them for high use testing. I've made arcade art overlays for control panels and basell art in the past. mind you i dont have a wideformat printer so most of what i've done was for spot repair or pure aesthetics. The presses i use can be done with most home equipment. This is to see if it's worth me doing a tutorial on youtube and possibly setting up a small batch for resell. By no means would i take any work away from anyone with a laminate process system who can pop these out in sheets then die cut them. if you can pleas run with this idea i don't mind. My methods are only good for small runs. If i do make these they will not have the same textured feel of thin plastic as i use photostock or high end then plastic backed paper with a film layer to protect the ink. and all reproductions will have a defining factor to show there reproductions. (out of the way signature or something that would not effect the overall look ofcorse.) If any one is interested pleas comment in the thread. If i take on this project i will need some assistance from the community. 1. Folks to scan or lend GOOD overlays at HIGH dpi. 2. Sample controllers for fitting and inhouse stressing (nonworking but clean/intact) 3. Someone to jawbone with while i do the first few manual cutouts with an exacto . 4. Feedback Feedback Feedback 5. If proven popular i may need to commission someone to make a single cut die for each controller type. This is basically a cookie cutter with very sharp edges embedded in wood or ressen for single layer cutouts. i no longer have the tools to make one of these myself.
  11. 35 is around what i can afford can you contact me with details pleas. this looks interesting and i'm looking for some 8 bit equipment.
×
×
  • Create New...