wt808

See this thread

I downloaded the STL of foft's case to figure out the port component sizes and hole locations, and the test print photos that you and Gandor posted for the final fit.

Don't mind at all. Thank you for helping fellow members and for printing and testing! ?

Revised enclosures (v1.2) are now available for the circuit boards of the second run, July 2019. The two standoffs below the cartridge port have been moved 1mm in line with the cartridge slot. I added a cutout to the upper standoff adjacent to the SD slot for clearance. I posted the models as a remix and are subject to change if any additional issues arise. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3779401 The enclosures for the first run boards (v1.12) are still available at the original location. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3562690

I understand. I'll confer with foft and santosp on what to do.

toddtmw, just curious, how long did your print take? In the last iteration of the models, I extended the cartridge opening to the board level, so even with no fasteners installed, the board should be "captured" between the halves. I had also tightened up the fit at the corners, so you might be able to get away with just the four fasteners that hold the halves together.

I believe the plunger will lift straight out, sometimes coming out when you pull the keycap. The spring is not captured in any way so be careful not to let it drop and lose it. If the plunger gets damaged beyond usefulness, I have a 3D-printable model of one that might help: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3666154 You will need to carefully sand the sides smooth to get smooth action, and use a narrow flat file on the inside surfaces to fit the keycap. My keyboard had a badly crumpled leaf but I was able to straighten it with pliers. I reheated the solder joint to get it realigned. I think that fabricating a new leaf from a strip of copper should not be too difficult. To reinstall the plunger, I inserted a pair of tweezer tips into the plunger from the top so that each tip passes through each of the two holes. Gently squeeze the tips together. As you lower the plunger into the opening, the tweezer tips spread the leaves and guide them into their respective openings, at which point I opened the tweezers slightly and lifted the tweezers out.

Do you have a github account? Make a pull request with your suggested change and the author will be notified to review and merge if he agrees. The same problem occurs with UNO Cart in the 400/800, but the required code changes are scattered throughout. UNO Cart works with an Incognito 800 since LS42 is replaced and S4/S5 behavior is changed.

There might be a bit more documentation and sounds available for recreating the Alles machine on which Amy was closely based. Demo of Alles machine, Hal Alles: Alles machine at Oberlin College/TIMARA: https://disquiet.com/2017/02/04/alles-machine-timara-jackson-talbert/- Also read the comment from Bob Perdue re: Hal Alles. http://timara.con.oberlin.edu/index.shtml- Scroll to 1/30/2017 entry at bottom of page. Link to Computer Music Journal Vol 1 Number 4 is broken, but it might be interesting to see what John Talbert did to hook up the machine with a Mac and other output modules. Digital Keyboards Synergy synth and logic board schematics: https://encyclotronic.com/synthesizers/digital-keyboards/digital-keyboards-synergy-r458/ https://encyclotronic.com/uploads/monthly_2016_10/syn_logic_processor1.png.68931906356b24882ba458eaecb21714.png Atarimax Amy page, some more historical tidbits: https://www.atarimax.com/jindroush.atari.org/achamy.html "Hear the Amy chip at last!" thread: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/110885-hear-the-amy-chip-at-last/ I'm also wondering if the name "Amy" was chosen as it's alphabetically higher than "Alice/Alles"?

Is this the first example of an Atari 8-bit with surface mount components? Sharp LH5006A Datasheet.pdf

I would recommend getting the DLC9G and following the proven procedure with the JED file. Using one-step SVF in iMPACT, I got a "Programming completed successfully" even with no programmer plugged into the computer! On another note, here's an alternative, no-solder JTAG cable made with a 2x5 2.0mm IDC female connector. This uses the 2x7 2.0mm cable assembly included with the DLC9G kit and you can still use it for 2x7 headers.

Thanks for posting photos. Are the two hex standoffs on each port removable? I can add just about any text, logos, and text effects as long as it's not copyrighted or trademarked. Let me know what you have in mind. Fine detail and effects may not always appear as expected with 3D-printing. As an example of what's possible...

You're welcome and thank you very much for your kind words and the tip!

This will probably be the final version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3562690 Enlarged the power switch opening, XE and 800 cases have vents on top and bottom.