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Lorne

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  1. I've got a battery elimator (wall wart) and a TV/game switch box that I purchased new from Best Electronics three weeks ago. They were both used for less than 5 minutes while I attempted to get my Pong game working (which didn't happen). As the Pong game is now in the trash, I no longer need these things. I paid $ 9.95 each + shipping for them, and will let the pair go for $ 10 + shipping. They'll fit in a USPS small flat rate box, so shipping would be $ 5 or parcel post may be cheaper (depending on your location). PM me if you're interseted.
  2. SOLD (pending payment). (can a mod put a *SOLD* at the beginning of the thread title for me? I have no idea how to change it).
  3. I received a 5200 a while back, and it came with a ton of games, so I had some duplicates and even some triplicates. I can't be bothered Ebay'ing them, so thought I'd offer them here for what I think is a cheap price. I don't want to have to ship them individually, so I'm offering them as a lot of 15 games for $ 15 (that's $ 1 each !) plus shipping. Send me a PM if you're interested. Here's what's in the lot: Games with boxes: Pole Position (NIB - still sealed) Atari Real Sports Tennis (NIB – still sealed) 2 of: QIX (game, box, instructions, two keypad overlays) Pac-Man (game, box, instructions, two keypad overlays) Super Breakout (game, box, instructions, two keypad overlays) Star Raiders (game, box, instructions, two keypad overlays) Centipede (game, box, instructions, two keypad overlays) Ballblazer (game, box) Loose games: Galaxian (game, two keypad overlays) Defender (game, instructions, two keypad overlays) Super Breakout (game, instructions, two keypad overlays) 2 of: Centipede (game, two keypad overlays) Pac-Man (game, instructions, two keypad overlays)
  4. Here's an update. I ordered a new GTIA and a new Antic (along with a new board as well - the multiple parts orders and their associated shiping costs were killing me, and I thought what the hell). I replaced the two voltage regulators (VR1 & VR2) which wasn't as easy as it should have been. I don't like the way they put that electrolytic cap right in the way of the screw holding VR2 in place, nor do I think it is a good idea to stick an elecrolytic cap next to a heat sink. It was a PITA to get at VR2. I removed the cap, even though I suppose I could have removed the heat sinks with the VRs attached to them instead. Then I replaced the GTIA. Tried it, and no go. I replaced the ANTIC as well, and all is now working as it should. I still don't know exactly what caused the problem in the first place, which was actually my desire and intent, but it's working, so I guess I shouldn't tempt fate. Thanks for your help guys. Now, I've got some spare parts for cheap here (cheap = shipping plus something): I'm going to keep the new board, so I've now got a used 5200 board with: 8 new RAM chips a new RF modulator new VR1 and VR2 a new GTIA and a new ANTIC In addition, I also have a new unused: Pokey IC 6502 IC ROM OS IC and a probably working RF modulator that I thought was bad, but maybe isn't. Do you two (zylon or eightbitter) or anyone else want this stuff?
  5. Hmmmm... I will give that one a try. I suspect however that it's probably the GTIA again, as I tried the new ANTIC and still had the same result. It's just an observation based on my very limited experience (like only this one) with these things, but they certainly seem more finicky than computers.
  6. There's no broken track. I checked continuity (with power off) between U5-29 and U3-35 and there is continuity. I've been suspecting VR1 & 2. I even left the machine on for a 1/2 hour and checked their voltages again in case they were putting out more voltage than they should be, and they weren't - I was getting 5.01V and 5.02V. I think at 86 cents each I think I'll just replace the damn things. I'll have to replace the GTIA again, and I'll probbaly order another spare Antic while I'm at it. Another thing that has also had me wondering: The wall wart (power supply) puts out 15.3V with nothing hooked up to it. Is that normal? It's rated for 9V output. Are your wall warts putting out more than 9V with nothing hooked up to them? I know the VRs are supposed to drop that voltage to 5V but maybe when I first turn on the power, a litle more juice is getting through than should be? Thanks again, Lorne.
  7. You got it. Private message me your mailing address, I'll get it boxed up, and let you know what the actual shipping cost will be. (do you want the two separate controllers as well?)
  8. You've got the right user name for this item. I don't have it all boxed up yet, but I'd probably just wrap the box in some sort of kraft paper, with maybe some cardboard around the sides to protect it a bit. The box looks like it would be 12" x 8" x 8" and it shouldn't weigh more than 2 lbs (and that's with the two separate controllers in the box - which I could take out if they're not needed), and from 85286 to 20191 USPS is saying it would be $ 8.67 for parcel post or $ 9.37 for priority. That should be the max cost - I didn't weigh it, and I'm sure it will be less than 2 lbs, but I suspect USPS is going to price it based on the dims. Anyone else who's interested, please check USPS costs from 85286 to your own zip code to get an idea of the cost (ie: I don't want to spend the next hour researching shipping costs ).
  9. I've got a dead Super Pong Ten game that I don't think is worth trying to fix. I'm going to dump it, but seeing as it's got a box, the styrofoam inserts, and the instructions, I thought I'd offer them for the cost of shipping, to whoever needs them. I'll hang onto them for a couple weeks from today - if I don't hear from anyone, they'll be in the recycle bin too.
  10. I have the images and can make you one (CP/M or TRS DOS). Where are you located? Send me a private message, and we can converse that way.
  11. Well, I dunno. I just turned it on for the third time, and it's back at a solid screen (with a slight red tinge to it). I tried a few different cartridges, and I still get the same thing happening. I took some measurements based on the Service Manual, and now I'm at page 4-2 of the trouble shooting guide where I get a no to the question "Is there a 3.37950 MHz signal on Pin 35 of U3?". The result of that seems to be "Open between U5 Pin 29 and U3 Pin 35" (I don't know what that's telling me), and the solution appears to be: "Repair or Replace". Repair or replace what, would be my question?
  12. Got it ! It's alive. I figured I'd replace the chips one by one, so I could find out which chip was causing the problem. The first chip I replaced was the GTIA, and bingo, that was it. I've just been playing Pac-Man, which I haven't done for about 25 years - and it's a riot too. Just for fun, I thought I'd recheck the voltage on pin 3 of the RF Modulator now that the machine was working with the new GTIA chip in it, and sure enough it's still showing 5V. So, it would appear that there's a typo in that field service manual. Question: Because of the Best Electronics minimum order of $ 20, I ordered all five chips (GTIA, Pokey, OS Rom, 6502 & Antic). You guys are the experts, so what's your opinion - should I go ahead and replace the Pokey, OS Rom, 6502 & Antic with the new chips as well? Are they liable to die one day too, so replacing them would prolong the life of the 5200 ? Thanks, Lorne.
  13. Yep - says "Dual Controller Holder Included" on the outside of the game box.
  14. I'd cleaned the socket and edge connectors (using a Q-tip and isoprop alcohol) on all my cartridges before I started anything. I checked the RF Mod and L13. 5V is present. I'm confused though - you say there should be 5V present at pin 3 of the RF Mod, but page 4-9 of the Field Service Manual seems to be indicating there should not be 5V. Is there a typo in the manual? New chips have arrived - I'm going to replace the old ones, and see what happens.
  15. OK - that's just plain embarrassing. It always pays to check the data sheet doesn't it ? (The devil is in the details) I put the old RAM back in, and I still have the same problem. While doing that, I noticed someone must have messed with the RAM before - there are four 4516 chips and four 4517 chips in the bank. I'll have to dig in my pile, and see if I can't find eight known good 4516 chips. I suspect I'm going to have a bunch of spare parts (some good, some maybe not) for you guys, when I'm all done with this thing. The five chips cost me more than a new replacement board would have cost, but I don't care now - I just want to know why this thing isn't working.
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