Just a quick note that i've almost finished a quick port of Alien to the Lynx. I am hoping that the flange of the intro music can be replicated on Lynx audio hardware but I don't hold high hopes, unless its somehow added in to the mod as a PCM instrument or something.
I've got to finish menu navigation but 90% of the mechanics are done. I've also got to add the tunnel images when you go under the grates etc, and the alien animation which i've just started. Hopefully I might be able to get something out by mid week.
Probably a question for Sage since he's already done the hi colour slideshow app, but how exactly is the high colour achieved? This is something Candle may try to support in his LCD replacement, if its at all possible (well, anything is possible, its a question of how many hours, days, weeks etc something takes to decide if its worth the effort).
I had assumed that it was done by displaying an image, then the same image but using a slightly different palette?
Has anyone here managed to output an audio sample through the Lynx audio? I've done some experimenting tonight but not really sure how developers did it in the past. I've experimented by trying to alter the volume (amongst other things) with a linked 8 bit unsigned wav, although I am not sure the linker linked it correctly.
Just thought I would post this feedback (I've posted this originally on another forum but wanted to share it with the Atari community) to help people like me who want to remove that case and key yellowing but live in the UK and wonder about UV light requirement.
Despite having next to no direct sunlight, you can achieve a perfect result, but be prepared to have an A1200 case in your bath for 2 weeks lol
I started quite feebly using 200ml of 35% H2O2 mixed with like 2 inches of bath water = fail, it did downgrade the yellow by 20 or 30%, after soaking in the bath for a week.
Then moved onto 12% cream peroxide, this brushes on. After roughly 3 lots of treatment, with one of those treatments outside for 1 hour in a teeny bit of sun, the A1200 now looks NEW. You've got to look closely as some keys or parts of case can take longer to do than other bits.
Also did the mouse and floppy button. The difference is quite staggering. If you attempt this, use rubber gloves and eye protection, oh and remove those white clips on the back of shift, tab, return keys before sticking them in the bath - 2 of mine went missing, presumed down plug hole.
I will post before and after images later.
Edit: Regards qty, 1 litre of 12% cream peroxide has done an entire 1200 case, keys, mouse, and 50% of an a500 case.
Originally Posted by hese7
How many hours you kept the case under cream peroxide treatment?
Good question, excluding the week to start with, which was pointless as the % when I diluted with bath water was probably less than 0.5%...
First application of creme, put on at lunch time, left in bath over night and cleaned off the following morning to check results. 80% yellowing removed, mouse was still bad on its back, keys mostly perfect, space bar still pretty yellow on one side.
Second application done outside (clowdy, no direct sun), left outside for an hour, then moved (on a tray) to the bath and left overnight.
Final application same as the last, but only 3 hours in bath before washing off to confirm the last few keys perfect and 2 spots on case perfect.
Edit: don't forget 1 teaspoon of Oxy action mixed into the creme before you start. And if you are doing the keys, pop them off the keyboard (dont stick the whole keyboard in lol), and obviously remove all the electronics from the case, obvious I know but there's bound to be someone out there...
Here are the before and afters - please note that the before was actually around 20 or 30% BETTER than when I started, ie. it was all as yellow as that mouse seen in the before pic. That mouse isnt shown in the after picture but its the same white as the case and keyboard now.