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omp

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  1. Had a very odd issue recently. I make up power supplies for retro consoles (SMS/MD, NES/SNES, Atari etc) and the people I get the power supplies have changed either the design or where they get them from, which means I had to do a re-test on all the consoles I do them for. Testing the new power supply (switch-mode 9Vdc, 1.3Amp) on MD, SMS, NES and SNES all proved fine. When testing on my AV modded (simple transistor version) 2600 jr I had a black and white picture. I use the older power supply for my modded 2600 with no issues. What I tried though was I trimmed the colour trim pot in the 2600 jr and I got colour again! Whoa weird! I did some simple measuring. On the old power supply no load (not that it matters since they are regulated) I read 8.8Vdc, the new power supply read 9.2Vdc. I also did a rough (very) AC ripple test and got 180mVac on both. So 1/Old style switch mode power supply Atari 2600 colour is fine. 2/New style switch mode power supply = b/w picture 3/adjust colour trim pot on Atari 2600 with new power supply = colour is back. 4/colour is now fine on both power supplies. Thoughts?
  2. Hello keen to know more about this clock capacitor. I am in Australia and do console modding, however I have never installed a chip into an XBOX or done the software stuff (I suck at that, or never tried). I typically muck around with the older stuff. Anyway what would be the effect of putting a 50F 2.5v capacitor in the place of the standard one? eBay Auction -- Item Number: 300726071364
  3. Looks like TV issue. If you are a member over at Assembler forums, ask there. There is a chap called BAD_ad64 who is pretty clue-y with these as he mods them. He may have the advantage though of being in the UK where PAL tv's typically don't have a problem doing PAL, NTSC and PAL60 modes.
  4. I was more thinking that link that I showed, shows more supporting components than just the crystal. Again, not sure if it will work. It seems weird but the early PAL SNES consoles don't require any additional components to get a colour picture with NTSC mod, just these later single chip SNES's
  5. Yea mate, I tried that one in a PAL console a while ago and it didn't work for me either. I found this via mmmonkey's website http://sd2snes.de/files/1chip-5060.pdf no idea if it works though as I haven't tried it.
  6. Here is a quick pick of the Nomad reset mod. I have marked on the IC203 where mode and start are in that IC. I ran my connections to the actual switch as it was easier with the wire I was using. I done one up for a mate recently and used Kynar wire and went to the IC for mode and start connections. Really it don't matter a toss as the out come is the same. Again Tmee pushed me in the general direction and I just used my multimeter and the master system mod (Tmee uses a different type of GATE to get the same effect) to work this out. Definately comes in handy especially for those multi-carts where you have to press reset to select the game.
  7. To be honest it doesn't bother me to much, I can use my consolized gg and play it on my tv. I got another gg that uses a ndsi backlight, which still needs to be 100% finished. These 2 consoles are on smspower too. I got the viletim fm sound board as well, recently upgraded to his ver1.1 from ver1 for better compatibility, for wonderboy3. I sent my sms2 to him to figure out a safe language switch, which worked great. Just needed a tad more work for 100% compatibility. Viletims gg tv out board does composite, s-video and rgb.
  8. Yes I used a replacement lcd. It was a partial failure as I bought an lcd screen (4.5inch from memory) the seller claimed it had zoom function. I planned to use the zoom function as a way around the game gear game (as opposed to master system games) resolution sizing issue. It ended up being selectable between letterbox or widescreen (damn it). There is a post or thread I put up on smspower on how it looks. It looks great with sms games, but not so with gg games. Also the screen uses more power than the original screen. I used a viletim tv out board to achieve this.
  9. Oh I can tell you how to do that! Tmee nudgeed me in the general direction for this one, once he did that a bit of multi-meter work had it sussed. I used an 4071 OR gate. On the OR gate- pin1 (input) goes to IC203 pin 1 (which is connected to mode or start, can't remember which) via 24k resistor pin2 (input) goes to IC203 pin 7 (which is connected to mode or start, can't remember which) via 24k resistor pin3 (output) goes to ribbon connector point 10 (count both rows) This goes to hard reset on the cart slot. pin7 is ground pin14 is +5v I am not sure if the resistors are necessary, I basically implemented the single port master system pause mod, where this is essentially the same thing. Basically it works (as OR gate does) pushing mode and start sends 2 low signals to the OR gate which triggers pin 3 low which activates(?) the reset on the cart slot. If that is not clear I can take a pic for you. I haven't done SMS mode yet as I didn't have Kynar or the like wire. I do now so it is on the list of things to do. Besides, I got a few Game Gears laying around including one with a replacement LCD screen in it.
  10. Bit late but yes I have done this before. I bought some battery packs (the rechargeable type) as a lot of 4 but the seller sent my 6! Sweet! I also have the batteries and chargers to do this (plenty). One day I plan to get around and put the packs together. My only problem is there are stuff all Nomads in Australia so the interest will be low..... Have you done the SMS mode mod to your Nomad?
  11. Do the NDSi backlight mod, much better!
  12. Laser could be dead, if the laser is dead it won't detect the disc and hence won't spin. The lasers are very easy to replace, depending on what model you have, the lasers are also reasonably priced. The one I replaced in mine was a JVC optima-6s (which funnily enough was also in a particular revision Sega CD2)
  13. *I know you have sold the console. But visit smspower and they have stickied a topic about replacing the caps in a gg. I have a post there where I replaced one cap and tested, replaced another and tested.
  14. Keen for a decent PAL composite mod as well. Have done the "simple" composite mod a few times for the video game store I work for, it looks ok for the cost of parts, but an improved mod would be the key.
  15. If composite is good enough for you, just use a "fly lead" AV cable. This way you don't have to drill holes and retains the stock look. I have done this a few times (simple AV composite mod since I live in PAL land) for the video game store I work for.
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