jsoper

I just noticed there's a 5-foot version. If that can reach from your 1702 to your s-video switch box, you don't need a female-to-female or anything else. amazon

You can even connect a 2600 paddle to the 5200 horizontal and common lines to play Kaboom, Breakout and such. The movement is reversed though, so you'll have to open the paddle and move the wire over to the other pot terminal (or install a small switch to support both consoles).

EDIT: moved to other thread.

One possible problem in using standard cables from a 5200 controller is the 5V line on pin 12 is not brought out. A trackball has it and probably extension cables too. I always thought the best homegrown masterplay would be a genesis controller plugging into a 5200 trackball, the keypad part is already done.

I remember when the Gamecube, Xbox, and PS2 were current and someone asked "Which console had games that looked best on a shelf?" Someone replied: "Well... modern games"

You put the same link twice. Here is the second one: Adapter cable I wish I'd known about this back in the day. There's no real good place to put an s-video jack on a 1702.

Back in 2006, I completed my 5200 released game collection by buying Bounty Bob Strikes Back on eBay. It was about $300, rare even then. A lot to spend, but I'd gotten a sign-in bonus at a new job and it was the only thing I wanted. After a few years, I was nervous about it sliding around in the plastic tub with the other loose carts, so I put it somewhere to keep safe. And totally lost track of it. I eventually assumed it somehow got thrown out and was miserable every time I opened my tub of carts. "Why didn't I keep it in here, I'm so stupid!" Half an hour ago, I was hooking a speaker back up and pulled another speaker out from a shelf to check the cable polarity. Guess what was sitting on top in a plastic veggie bag just chilling through the 2010s. Best feeling in the world. EDIT: Think I'll go cut some cardboard column dividers from an Amazon box.

5200, Jag, and TG-16 will all work Deathskull labs

I'd mimic a masterplay circuit if it was me. Lift R21 and R22, then run the two axis signals to the commons of a DPDT switch. One side of switch goes back to resistors so trackball works as usual. Other side goes to analog outputs of CD4052 chips. They slap in 10k, 250k, or 500k ohms between axis and ClearLine based on 2600 stick direction signals on the 4052 digital inputs. Firebuttons can be put in parallel between joystick and trackball. Use genesis controllers when you want the second fire button. If you're feeling really crazy, also add 2600 paddle support for epic Kaboom and Breakout games. You need to connect to the other side of the paddle pot.

So I bought one about a year ago that was described as untested, and it didn't work (just posted in HARDWARE). Got the impression that most "untested" Studio IIs on Ebay are known bad, and just slosh around in multiple overpriced auctions. A couple weeks ago, I spotted one where the seller had lots of auctions, but no other video game hardware, so I hoped for an estate sale and bid. Got it for $53, which I thought was a good deal, even if no games. Opened the box up and frowned when I saw a sliced up warranty sticker (meaning it had been opened at least once). Tried two LED TVs, no luck. Then transferred over my composite mod board from the bad console, tried on a 1702 monitor, and hallelujah an actual image (below). What a ride. Tapped out the audio, so I could turn it down because it quickly gets annoying. Too lazy to install rca jacks, so just ran a cable out the ch2-3 slot. Left the 18ft cable and switch box attached, it's just a switched power line now. BTW, this system is primitive beyond words, I'll be playing it out of pity. Still need to repair a broken channel-f and mod an astrocade for s-video sometime. Stressed about each.

Hey All, I now have one working Studio II and one broken one. Long shot, but does anyone know the root cause of the garbled screen (image attached)? Pushing reset, other buttons, and trying with and without cartridge does not help. No startup sound, but that could be separate. Things I've tried: New power supply connected directly to regulator, so not a switch box issue. Modded for composite out, so not a modulator issue 5V rail and 1.78Mhz clock line OK. No broken traces seen. Some things I haven't tried: Recapping Replacing all off-the-shelf chips Reflowing solder on custom chips Reseating ribbon cables But don't want to spend time on these if someone knows better. It looks like a bad rom or CPU chip to me.

Oh it was, but soldering was my passion back then. Now with kids, I can barely get out of bed in the morning. Seriously, it looks great. Congratulations.

Complementary. These consoles are rude and don't compliment anyone. Heck, they even call some Berzerk players "chicken"

Probably too late, but does this help? deathskull via wayback

I'm not sure the connector is the right size. You can use a 5200, jaguar, or TG-16 supply if you have one around: wayback link