Wacara

Lazers - That adapter you bought should work (provided it has a connector that physically will fit into the jack on the MP1000). Set it to 7.5v AN NES adapter woudl work too (if the connector fits) Warning - Techy Talk ahead!: I am not familiar to the MP1000, but I found a service manual for it. It does indeed originally use an adapter that spits out AC voltage. There is a bridge rectifier and a single 7805 regulator. So that supply from Radio Shack will work, and does not matter which polarity you apply to the adapter's tips. As for the other point that was mentioned above me, consoles vary from one another, but for the most part, you can use a DC adapter for a console/device that originally requires AC, provided the voltage is close to the same, as well as the current output capabilites. There are a few exceptions however, and that is the consoles/devices that use doublers or similar setups that boost the AC higher then the original input. IN those cases, you would have to know what the highest DC voltage is used in the device, and have an adapter that spits out DC just a bit higher then that. Note though - this can stress components higher then usual (in the power supply section). Now, spitting AC into a device expecting DC will either not work, or worse, burn up components. DC is strictly one polarity.direction, whilst AC reverses polarity over time (hence the 50/60hz statements). If the device is expecting DC, what will happen is 1/2 of the time the polarity will be correct, and the other 1/2, it will be backwards. Reverse polarity is similar to connecting a battery to something backwards. What determines if it will not work, or burn up, is the design of the device. (Which of course varies among devices). Devices with reverse polarity protection are less likely to burn up, unless the reverse protection blows open instead of absorbing the incorrect polarity voltage/current. If there is no reverse polarity protection, its likely the regulators will blow, or worse, chips and active components in the system itself.

I wish you the best, and hope you have some luck. Its been a while since I ever really messed with CD players, but I figured I'd throw out some ideas when I saw this topic unreplied to. You are totally correct about the landfill, that is a nightmare to me, not just death to electronics, but also a history killer. Not to mention that a lot of the old school stuff is so much better built then things you find the stores these days (and that it was servicable and well thought out). You always can try to fix, and in my case, when I have no luck, I usually save the item for parts, or just in case I end up with a similar unit that I can swap parts and make one working unit. It seems like only yesterday electronics service was the big deal, especially TV repair. I've worked on so many, I never thought it would die off, let alone most service period. None the less, hopefully you can get that player going!

I'm looking for the opposite of what most are wanting - Non Working items. I do not have any specific category interest, but I do have some highlights: General Categories: *Consoles *Computers *Computer Drives, Modems, other add-ons General Condition: *NO corrosion *NO physical damage to board (smashed/crushed, been through fire, etc) *NO SMT (Surface Mount Technology/Components) Items of Most Interest: 810 Disk Drives (815 would be nice, but doubful) In short, I am looking for the stuff you might toss in the trash and/or have just had sitting around that is not functioning. Units in complete condition (case, all parts, etc) are a bonus. 810 Drives are my priority. Most of what I am looking for will be going into my "Memorabilia Museum" and/or will be mounted on my wall in my office, so functionality is not of concern, but being clean and complete is a plus. If anything, if you only have the circuit boards that would be great as well (Some missing components okay, though its perfered if there are no components missing). Dusty stuff is okay, just not caked in dirt to the point it has caused corrosion. As I have mentioned, I really do not have specifics, so if you have something thats non working, is 8-bit/retro, feel free to post and I'll let you know if I am interested. For the most part, my focus is the general categories I mentioned, but other odd items may catch my interest as well. Not Interested In: *Software *Games *Carts *Cables/Cords *Paddles/Joysticks/Controllers *Power Cubes/Adapters *Monitors/CRTs *Arcade Orientated *Other Bulky/Large items that would require freight/uber expensive shipping charges In short, I am mainly interested in units that contain a good amount of electronics/circuit boards, and I am looking for those dirt cheap "I need to get rid of it" deals. If you have working 810 drives, I may be interested in those as well, if price is right. I highly doubt there are any 815s floating around, let alone be inexpensive, however if that were to become an option, that would be the cherry on top for me. I do have paypal, I do have a commercial/business confirmed shipping address, and I do buy this kind of stuff often (usually via ebay). Ebay is fine, though I do not have time to fight a regular auction, if its going to be through ebay, I perfer a BIN setup. I just figured I would check on here and see what anyone may have sitting around. I do not have a timeline, and I am always on the lookout for such finds, so this WTB really has no end. If you decide to get rid of some non-working items meeting these criterias, do feel free to drop a line here or PM me Thank you All!

I'd suspect the driver IC as a likely culprit, although its not the only possibility (could be the IC's power source, the spindle motor itself, logic control signals to the driver IC, to name a few). Often the same driver IC also controls the laser tracking and the focus coil. From the video it seems the focus movement is alright, however the laser assembly never moves. Typically the laser assembly will move, whilst attempting to focus, in an attempt to read data from a disc. If you manually move the laser assembly (with unit unplugged) away from the centre of the disc (spidlle), if tracking drive is good, it will/should move to the centre again, since CD systems read data from discs in the same fashion as vinyl - centre of disc to the outer edge. Dirty laser lens/optics will not prevent the spindle motor from spinning. The system always fires up the spindle motor when it goes to read a disc. If the optics were dirty, the disc would spin in varying speeds (including very rapid speeds) and the laser assembly would move in tiny (jerking) motions, in an attempt to get a read. In some systems, the laser will actually travel up and down its entire track quickly. The system would eventually give up after several failed attempts (typically) and raise an error flag ("no disc", typically). In all honesty, it probably is not worth bothering with, unless the unit holds some collectors/sentimental value to you. There are service manuals available on the net (though I have not found a free one), although such systems can prove to be complex to troubleshoot.