Stephen Moss

Depending on how much room there is inside the touch pad, you could try and find membrane keypad the rich size and use that instead sitting it between the PCB and original membrane. Alternatively it may be possible to create a new PCB with surface mounted membrane switches that would replace the original PCB.

When you download something in chrome does not a little download icon appear to the right of the address bar that you can click on and so a similar thing, or does that only apper once a download has completed? Someone in a previous post asked it there was a list of "dangerous" extensions, I am sure there will be somewhere, but not one you could access. I had a similar issue at work, uploaded files to a networked drive without issue, then uploaded a newer versions overwriting the original files and my user account was blocked for suspicous activitly all because one of the extentions I was using created a file type that is often used/exploited by hackers and the change to it resulted in it being flagged. Thus I would suspect that .bin files are/have been similarly exploited by hackers which is why they are now being flagged as potentially dangerous.

I am pretty sure that channel 38 (606.500 - 613.500 MHz) is the free use channel in the UK, thus both the VCR and 2600 RF outputs will both be on that channel. The problem with auto tuning is that sometimes they only go through fixed frequencies, and so may not pick up the signal if the frequency of the incoming signal is not spot on the centre frequency. So if the VCR/TV allows you to do so, find the fine tuning menu and try manually tuning across the given frequency band. Have you tied connecting the VCR to the TV via RF to see if it you can pick up its output that way just to confirm it is creating a video signal? Have you successfully used the Line output on that VRC before? If not, then although the connectors may be present on the case there is the possibility it is not actually connected internally on that version of the VCR, only being connected in a more expensive version/version for a different market (i.e. connected in versions sold in the US but not in the UK as AV use in the UK was probably much lower at the time). Have you tried tuning in the RF output from the 2600 directly to the TV in case the VCR is the problem, as going through the VCR may not be necessary?

Yes, too expensive too purchase for personal use but there are places like Protolabs (formerly 3D hubs) where you can send it to be manufactured, will probably still be expensive for what it is, but cheaper than buying a 3D printer of any type for occasional home use. But you can submit you design online and it checks for errors and give you an instant quote. If you do want to buy the smaller the printed object the better the 3D printer has to be, and I would use ABS rather then PLA as it is a proper engineering material and would be the same as the original part, PLA is more brittle and distorts more during the printing so dimensional accuracy of the finished part is a generally more difficult (particularly on smaller parts) when using PLA.

A lack of response does not necessarily mean you are being ignored, just that nobody has an answer particularly if it is not an item many people are familiar with. The only possibility that readily springs to mind given the description and that I am not familiar with the item in question is possibly a bad cable, making intermittent connection. If the seller accepts returns I suggest trying that or seeing if they have another cable they will send you to try and confirm whether or the cable alone is the problem.

It is not a good idea to just do that without first establishing that the output from Reg1 is incorrect, because you then have two voltage regulators (REG1 & U38) fighting against each other as they both they and regulate the 5V supply for the who system. As you say that you are getting video on RF that suggest the video circuity is working, thus reasons why you do not get video through the Jag2SNES could be... It is faulty You have connected it upside down/internals were fitted into the case upside down thus the signals are not being routed to the correct place When you say no video and audio with the Jag2SNES, is that just on the Jag2SNES output on does it kill the Jaguars RF video signal as well, if the latter that would definitely suggest an issue with the Jag2SNES as that should not happen. As for the sounds.... Have you checked that the sound is not turned down in the game setting? Does pressing 0 on the keypad (mute/unmute make any difference? If none of those solve the problem then you need to check the supply voltages to U10 (measure across pins 7 & 14) & U5 (measure across pins 4 & 5, be very careful not to short them with you meter probes), if they look ok then you you need to check the voltage on pins 5 & 13 of U10 (measured to GND). Approximately 5V is OK, approximately 0V is not. Otherwise, if those look OK it is difficult to debug the audio section if you do not have an Oscilloscope to check for the prescience of signals, but you can check the supply voltage to the audio output amplifier (measure across pins 4 & 8 ) to see if that is getting 5V power, if so and you do not have an oscilloscope to confirm a lack of output signal I would be inclined to change in case it has been damaged and is therefore not outputting any audio.

I don't think that would necessarily infringe IP as I believe that generally refers more to things like game code as assets (i.e. sprites), however I am sure the Atari logo will be trademarked so they could pull you up on using that without permission. Also a name like "The Atari report" could potential make people think it is either created or endorsed by Atari which depending on peoples view of the resulting output could reflect negatively on Atari the company, and so they may have issue with you using their name in the title of anything you do. Additionally if you are deriving income from it then as you are profiting from using the Atari name you may be guilty of "passing off" I think it is called as you are in some way trading on their name and reputation to derive an income. Really, the best thing to do is ask them. Explain what you are doing and where you want to use their name and logo, shown them mock-ups if you can to give them a clearer idea. If they give permission you're good to go, otherwise you risk them choosing to take action against you for doing so. I cant seem to add a quote from the last page so in reply to @Living Room Arcade comment above that I am not sure exactly what the IP laws are in the US (or anywhere for that matter), certainly copyright law allows you use up to a percentage of copyrighted material for the purpose of critique/review and possibly an example (depending on the circumstances) of a way of doing something, as long as it does not involve an key integral part of the copyrighted material, i.e. revealing the murdered in a who done it. So if that person is just showing gameplay then I personally think that would be more of a copyright issue than an IP issue (showing game code) and so you would be correct in that it should be covered by fair usage. As others have stated I am not sure Atari will get anywhere with this as State Farm have reasonable tried to obscure the name Crystal Castles/the Atari name and Fuji logo, even then it would seem from what I have read here having not seen the ad myself that State Farm were just creating some kind of general gamer reference and thus going for the general the look of an arcade, not something specifically to do with Atari. Think of it this way, if a TV crew were doing a piece in an video game arcade and an Atari video game just happened to be in the background, I don't think there would be anything Atari could do about its inclusion as it is incidental to the TV report, not the focus of it. Otherwise the TV news company would have to go the the manufacture of every game visible to get permission to include the images of them before airing the report which would seem to me to be an unreasonable expectation.

You could try an extraction tool similar to this, the end go under each end of the IC and you pull it up you may have to try one end a little then the other to keep it reasonably even if it is tight. Although if it is really tight such as tool may not be robust enough, so try a 4-5mm flat bladed screwdriver, hopefully the sockets will have a indentation in the top that you can use to slide the screwdriver under neither the IC making the next part easier. With the screwdriver blade under the IC use it to prise that end of the IC up a little out of the socket then do the same the other end, keep altering ends and inserting the screwdriver a little more each time until the IC is free. If you cannot easily get the screwdriver under both ends of the IC you can do it from one end, but once you are about a third of the way along you need to start pressing down on the loosened end of the IC as you prise up the other end to keep the IC fairly level otherwise at best the pins at the far end of the IC from where you inserted the screwdriver will be bent when you get the IC out due to the angle of the other end and at worst may break off.

Thanks, while you have shown it is not impossible to prevent individuals making changes and releasing their own version, If I am to continue being responsible for the on going maintenance and updating (when I can find the time) then I would be inclined not to put it on a public repo. Mainly as I don't really know that much about them and thus what version control methods are in place, for example... can two two people edit it at the same time and if so what happens when each saves, are they merged, do the changes to section A in one get lost then get lost they are overwritten by second version one where changes were made to section B and not section A. Thus for now I think that to try and maintain some semblance of version control and thus ensure that each new version of a document builds upon the changes made in the last rather than potentially having multiple versions floating around created by many different people all containing various random versions of updates that it would be better if potential updates/changes either... Go through a small technical committee for verification before being forwarded to one individual responsible for the updating and maintenance of the documentation for updating or Go directly to the person (be that myself or someone else willing to take over the updating and maintenance of the documentation) responsible for the updating and maintenance of the documentation for updating. I am not sure I explained that very well but I hope it make sense. It would be nice to know enough about Jaguar programming to be able to verify it myself, but as I don't my preference would be for a third party to verify it before I make any changes permanent so I would use the "subject to change" text colouring if it is goes in and the new version released with the changes still unverified. I am not saying that your changes are necessarily wrong, inappropriate or in the wrong section, it is just that having a second party verify the information is correct and relevant increases confidence that no potentially incorrect/misleading changes are being added to the documentation.

I have it as a word document as I created the updated documents. When I have time I will take a look at adding your notes to the documents, unless you would like to take over the ongoing maintenance of them in which case I could give you all the relevant files.

I have not composite modified 2600 so cannot really offer any help here, but it may help other to give you the relevant advice if you were to mention which of the various composite mods you performed in case some may be more prone to that occurring than others.

Not sure why that would be an issue, surely any sane person would take the time to remove the case when prepping and painting it, not work on it while fully assembled.

If you want a 2600 with HDMI why not just get at 2600+, it would be a lot easier and probably cheaper than having a new case made and messing around with adding it yourself. If you could create a 3D model of the case for printing you would probably need to go to a fab house like Protolabs to get it printed, home printers will likely be to small and can suffer from shrinkage issue on larger plots. For a really good finish LASER sinter printing would probably be better but more expensive. If not LASER sintered then you really need to use ABS rather than PLA, it is a proper engineering material that most off the shelf plastic enclosures are made of it is more flexible the PLA and so better for drilling and screwing into. As for more space inside the case, I am not sure how much space there is off hand but you seem to be thinking horizontally, perhaps there is room vertically to stack an extra PCB inside.

I don't know how you would get the silver paint off without adversely marking the case, maybe a fine grain/bead shot/sandblaster would work, but if you want it back to close to the original colour with minimal chance of marking the case then your best bet is is probably to try and find a colour that is close to that of the Jaguar and have it spray painted that colour. If you are not skilled at spray painting your self perhaps look for a local modelling club, the more serious and detail orientated model makers often have their own air brushes, an small tin of suitable coloured model paint probably would not cost that much (they may even be able to mix it to an more exact colour match) and maybe a few pounds for their time should yield a better result than you may get from doing it yourself with an aerosol can of car paint.

No, measure between pin 13 and Ground (pin 1), Pin 20 is the 5V pin (see schematics here), of your reading is close to 0 then you likely have a short to ground which could be external (i.e. solder splash) but could be internal to the RIOT. So if you have a short to ground and the RIOT is socketed you could try removing it, carefully lift pin 13 slightly so that it sits outside the socket when you replace it and measure again, if the short is still there then it is in the RIOT, of not then it is external and so something that can potentially be found and corrected. Correct, if the RIOTs internal pull up to 5V has failed then its input pin is essentially left floating and it is chance as to whether the RIOT sees any voltage in its input as a High (no movement) or a Low (Down) input. However, if you have a multi-meter it may be worth just measuring the voltage on pin 13 first, as depending on where the RIOT's internal pull up is connected, if it is working then that may result in a reading close to 5V, otherwise adding the resistor simply replaces the potentially failed internal pull-up with an external one, the RIOT pin is thus pulled up to 5V and so should no longer register a down input until the Joystick is in its down position thereby connecting the RIOT pin to Ground, the 5V supply is then dropped across the resistor and a down input is registered. I hope that make sense. Essentially correct, you could try replacing the Socket as the IC-Socket contact may not be good and clearing the IC pin with isopropanol or switch cleaner is they look dirty but by external-internal connection I was thing more of the wire bonding connection between the external pin of the RIOT and the silicon die inside failing which would necessitate a new RIOT chip. I cannot guarantee the above will fix the problem but from the initial symptoms the input side of the RIOT is the most logical place to start, but the issue may lie with the output instead.