bitfracture
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Yes, thanks so much for the response, but I've tried the C64, Master Systems, and done searches for both Victor Data Systems and Corona Data Systems. Wouldn't it make sense that a monitor like this would follow some universal standard for the time? That's what I am really hoping. Thanks again for the reply. I'll update this post if I do end finding more info. -
I recently obtained a 1984 monochrome CRT by Corona Data Systems. The video input port was very similar to that of a CGA monitor (8-pin DIN) but it was a U-DIN or "horseshoe" type. When I opened up the monitor I used the labels to modify a diagram to what I think is correct. I'll post a few pictures below. My attempted modification (right) of a diagram for a standard RGBI cable (left). I have no idea if this is really right, I just traced leads with my meter following the labels shown on the board, here: The input from the DIN soldered to the board inside the monitor. Here are a few pics of my monitor, the DIN input, and the label on the back. Really what I need is an accurate pin diagram or name for this type of connection so I can obtain a cable or at least know how to make one. All of my searches have shown essentially nothing to support the existence of this video connector type. I need to be able to connect this to a CGA/EGA or even VGA output if possible. I understand for VGA there may need to be some way to fabricate the intensity value. All help and info is appreciated. Thanks
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Going to give this a good going myself, but thank you for the contact. I will use it if all else fails The pins looked perfect. I had one heck of a time getting the darn thing out, and worse getting it back in... I swear the whole board was about to shatter :/ I feel pretty confident in the contacts though. I am concerned I may have accidentally caused the problem with U7 though. I am really shaky and have trouble controlling what my meter probes touch, unfortunately. I am going to try to get a few if I can find them, maybe it will make an IC worth the shipping for once! And yeah, honestly, I wouldn't have noticed the difference with the acronym name, haha, I read it the other way elsewhere and didn't even notice
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Actually, that is what concerned me. Two of the caps (The smaller ones) are not 35 volts like the larger one, they are 25 volt caps. They are all rated at 4700 microfarad. I will respond to the rest of your comments later, I'm in a rush. Thanks so much!
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I reseated U7, and the drive seemed to init correctly more often than before, but given a few starts, right back to where we were before. So you recommend that I order a new one to fix the cycling problem? I am also going to have to order new caps and an SIO2PC then, eh? I just want to be as sure as everyone else on this forum before ordering things, because it always takes weeks for things to ship. Thanks for the help.
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I think we ought to correct all power problems before I do any chip replacement. I register half a volt of AC coming through the voltage regs, which means those caps aren't doing their job. I think if we kick that problem out of the way then we can be sure nothing else is going to get fried. I can't find anything labeled the 6532, what is the label name? I apologize for not having the most advanced electronics skills, please bear with me. On U5: Pin 8 is over 8 volts with motor running, pin 9 at relatively 7 volts, 10 at 3 volts, 11 at 1 volt. I don't know if that's supposed to be that way or not. All of the electronics I have dealt with were all 5 or 3.3, unless dedicated to driving higher or lower voltage equipment. This range seems weird to me.
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It seems right now that the main trouble with this board is that it keeps going into that weird cycling mode, where the power to Q6 is cycled on and off instead of having a constant current, and the drive doesn't initialize. I adjusted the timing just perfect, but I can't test it. The drive is cold, all cables are correctly in place, and it was working moments ago. I don't get it... Also I'm measuring this same on/off behavior, but at 7.3 or so volts on U5 during this.
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If I make a single mark on the spinning part of the drive, I can set the strobe, then adjust the spin until the mark appears to not move.
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- Atari 1050
- 5.25 Floppy
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Thank you russg, but I think I will end up buying one. I don't have access to many components nor the want to add any more personal error potential to my project I removed the caps, they seem to charge and discharge exactly how I would expect them to. I cannot find my cap tester, darn it, but if I do I will tell the results. I was testing these things using 12 volts 2Amp in parallel with a CPU fan. The voltage rises and falls like I would expect, but I also don't really know what to look for.
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Are these even stock caps? Every pic I find of the Atari 1050 seems to have different ones.
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I am wanting to get that, and I am watching one on eBay, but those things are so overpriced, it's a killer... Am I able to daisy chain the SIO2PC out of the SIO port on the 1050? If my OS is on the thing I would think that would be important, but I heard something about the SIO2PC using all IO channels for virtual drives and I don't know if that would conflict with the physical drive, being on D1 currently. I actually did get a strobe light today, I can fine tune it too, it's excellent. I just need to know exactly what to tune it to. It gives me a digital readout on the top of the strobe, I -think- that it displays rotations per minute. I could be wrong. What do y'all think? It's this expensive thing: http://www.grainger.com/product/5AY35?gclid=CK7rkPiBlbwCFat7QgodSkwAQg&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Test%2520Instruments-_-Nonelectrical%2520Properties%2520Testing-_-5AY35&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=5AY35&ef_id=UYrAoQAAALhAZ3tT:20140123191932:s
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I don't know the voltages I should look for because the service manual isn't much of a help in that area. I posted the voltages at the regulators above but I didn't get much of a response to that. I need a manual with voltages laid out. I can check the IC's by their datasheets, but that's about it.
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I am trying to do just that. I have been watching eBay and looking through thrift shops. I want to get another very badly. I've also been on the lookout for tape drives, those things are neat. On the topic of the cooling process to locate dead chips, how would that work? Are we just waiting for the device to trip up when we cool a particular component? It seems to me that such a process would only highlight broken solder leads (If not break more of them)
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Do you think it is worth it for me to purchase dos on a cart? If so, which version? Also to follow up what I previously said, the drive fails after it gets hot and starts to cool down. If I leave it for a long time it fires back up good as new (Well, kinda, anyway... because it still won't read a disk). I will get out a magnifying glass tomorrow and look for cracked solder points. With good luck I may just get myself a strobe to test RPM's with, but I will need some guidance. I don't have a single element of software for my 800XL that isn't on a floppy.
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Oh boy, now it's monumentally screwed. When I power it on, it spins, then stops, then spins, then stops... and so on. It did this once before, but stopped and went back to normal. I'm getting seriously frustrated. All I've done to this thing is try adjusting the potentiometer up and down. I'm sure it's way out of the correct time by now, but for things to just quit like this is really weird.
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