GTretro87

Sold!

No worries! Well there are zener diodes on the PCB and if and when they die (they eventually will unless you replace them), 9v full volts will flow through the system and will damage it. So this replaces them and prevents damage from ever occurring. I wanted to just replace them at first but then I decided to just upgrade the system.

Here are some more pics.

Hey all! I currently own three Atari Lynx (one I, and two II's - all with the same mods), and even though there's no need for me to get rid of any of them, there's no need for me to hold onto all. So here's one of my mint Lynx II's! This Lynx is in perfect working order, and although the case itself is mint, there is a very fine line on the screen cover (as shown on the pics) which does not hinder visibility at all. This Lynx has been fitted with McWill's LCD screen which outputs EXTREMELY sharp images and vibrant colors - AND helps increase battery life dramatically compared to the stock LCD! Also, the 5v regulator used is a RECOM R785.0-1.0 (1412) which can be found from Mouser/Digikey. A minimum of 6.5v is required for this regulator to output 5v and boot up/keep the system running - so please use FRESH and NEW batteries when first playing this for the best and longest possible experience. Last but not least, a new flex circuit has been installed so there will be no problems with the system powering on! The only thing you will notice with this system is the slight hairline in the plastic cover over the screen, other than that no scratches on the case. The system does have the original grips in the rear, AND the battery cover. I'm asking for $250 Paypal'd and shipped via USPS Priority throughout the lower 48 states, anywhere else must be calculated. Oh yea, you also get a free copy of Xybots Feel free to ask any questions you may have, and thank you for looking!

Hmm.. Ok, well soon I will post up in the marketplace one of my Lynx II's, once I'm finished fixing my Lynx I.

Hey all, So I have two Atari Lynx II's, both with a 5v regulator mod, McWill's LCD screen replacements. If the system clamshell is in mint condition, how much do you think one of these should sell for?

Damnit it was the battery needing to be charged lol

I realized something... I was using Best's NiCad rechargeable battery pack during my testing.. Listen to this I figured last night that before I go to sleep, let me calm my nerves and play a little with a bone stock (recoditioned) Lynx 2... I plugged in the NiCad pack and the system turned on but the screen was quickly becoming dim.. Then I thought, oh I need to charge it.. Maybe that's why my screen was going white because of not enough power? I'm about to test it out in a few after charging my pack 6 hours.. So let's see. On a fully charged pack or new set of batteries, I can't see the voltage dropping within seconds.. I can however see the system refusing to work with a low charged/almost dead pack or batteries beause the regulator needs at least 6-6.5v to output 5v - and doesn't the lynx need at least 6v to work?? I'll keep you guys updates real soon

Ok so I've completed my Lynx 1 regulator mod. Considering that the AC adapter sends power to R69, it must cross through L18; therefore L18 is what requires a diode and L15 must require a jumper because it is ground. I've connected everything and all is working well - however I've stumbled upon a completely different issue which I have not solved yet - a new thread will be needed for this. My issue? Keep in mind this is a "New in box Lynx" that was recently purchased, shrink wrap and all which actually didn't come with an AC adapter but a rather brand new Lynx, and manual... So after about 11 minutes of the system running with the regulator mod and McWills LCD - the colors on the screen started to wash and then my screen went blank WHITE Now.. This has nothing to do with McWills LCD because I tested it on my Lynx 2 and it's working perfectly... Somehow My Lynx 1 is faulty... And this was not entirely human error At first I was getting washed colors after 30 seconds of playing - this is because solder accidentally dropped onto the data and clock lines on the component side of the PCB. After removing the solder, and everything working great.. This happens So I'm not sure if anybody has any clue, but I'm gonna keep it in my head that this is not the typical Lynx 1 PCB. For instance, it wouldn't make sense for a mass produced product to have jumper wires soldered on certain parts of the PCB - that's custom work, definitely not something mass produced as new - so I'm questioning that... In the meantime I'm getting another lynx 1 PCB to mod and put inside my new Lynx 1 case

Yes I decided to push through and use the regulator. I think my major concern was making sure that the battery positive track was cut through enough to actually make the mod work. It would be so much easier if all we had to do was swap the zener diodes for the regulator, no cutting or removal of anything.. But nonetheless, I got it to work. When I re-tried the mod and checked all my points (voltage and continuity), the mod successfully worked with a 7805 as a test. THEN I swapped in the RECOM R785.0-1.0 [1412]. 6.5 to 18v max input range. This is what I used for now: http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=R-785.0-1.0virtualkey56830000virtualkey919-R-785.0-1.0 The R785 (switching reg) definitely runs cold compared to the 7805 which runs HOT. Which was the regulator that you used? Was it this? http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Murata-Power-Solutions%2FOKI-78SR-5-15-W36-C%2F&qs=uJpRT2lXVNXJP%252bo08dQqJQ%3D%3D

First Lynx II regulator and LCD mod completed! One down, two to go.

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/238372-help-regulator-mod-gone-wrong/ Fixed!

Well, it's working now. The MOSFET ended up being fine, probably the two others I've swapped were too. But nonetheless, I installed a new flex circuit from Best-Elecs. and it now finally powers on and off well with the buttons! http://atariage.com/forums/topic/238372-help-regulator-mod-gone-wrong/ ..on to my Lynx I and other II now

You're right, the flex circuit *should* have been used to test because bypassing it ruins the whole point of testing. I only did that because I wondered if possibly the U6 was burnt or maybe something else corresponding to it wasn't working properly.. well, at least now it's working. As far as flex circuits in the Lynx II, there's only one main circuit that controls the buttons on the face of the unit like Power On, Option 1, etc. The other flex cable is for the LCD.

Well I figured out the problem. It was indefinitely the flex circuit. Once I popped a new one in the system booted up with the power button! I guess with the Lynx 2, the method is Q12 MOSFET change, then flex circuit..