olix

I have now installed a PoekyMax. I wired the required signal lines on the underside and routed them upwards via the breadboard area. If you choose an electrolytic capacitor with a low height for C98, the stereo pokey extension fits over the capacitor without any problems and you don't have to bend it over.

... and here is my shopping list with the order numbers from mouser.com and reichelt.de (German mail order company for electronics). BOM-V1d.pdf

I am happy to share with you some files that I have made for myself to make assembling the board a little easier: Assembly-List.pdf All components sorted by component name and by component value PCB1_Search.pdf Searchable graphic of the PCB to make it easier to find the components PCB_Oberseite.tif and PCB_Unterseite.tif High-resolution, lossless scan of top and bottom of board Maybe this is a little help. Assembly-List.pdf PCB1_Search.pdf PCB_Oberseite.tif PCB_Unterseite.tif

Oh, I must have missed the diode. I'll make up for it right away this evening. Thanks for the tip.

I assembled my second 800XL Advanced Remake today. This time as a PAL model. As with the first board, everything worked great. I like this PCB better every time.

Maybe Duddie can take over production, sales and shipping again?

I still have an older V2 PokeyMax (no 2b). This requires 10 uF electrolytic capacitors at the audio connections. Can I use tantalum capacitors instead of the electrolytic capacitors? These would be smaller.

But another big question is: Will the PokeyMax V4 be available to buy anywhere? For most of us it will be impossible to assemble the board ourselves, even with a little SMD experience these components are far too difficult.

Nice to hear that the PokeyMax success story continues. But what is the goal to be achieved with version 4? Cheaper than PokeyMax V3? More and new functions than V3? Better availability than V2 and V3?

I think you should leave the layout as it is now. If there are components on both sides of the board, it only makes assembly unnecessarily difficult. You can't save that much space either, because there has to be room for at least the pin header, even if all the other components are moved from the top front to the bottom.

Overange was kind enough to sell me two of his extra-small UGV boards. As these were not assembled, I first had to get the components and then embark on the SMD soldering adventure. Assembling the board is not necessarily suitable for a soldering beginner, but with a little experience and patience you can do it quite well. The most difficult part was actually that I had to switch between three different pairs of glasses during assembly: normal glasses for distance, reading glasses for close-up and magnifying glasses for the very small things. And then a microscope for checking. But everything worked out well and the two UGV modules worked straight away. Overange did a really good job and made the already good UGV from Mytek even better, as it now fits into the 600XL without any problems. I really love this little piece of hardware.

I am also interested in one ore two front panels for my existing mega speedy.

Ah, I see. The area around the pokey is really very densely covered with routes*. I imagined it would be easier. The idea with the additional pads is also just a "nice to have" and not a "must have". The idea of using a breadboard area for this is completely sufficient. You shouldn't change to a 4-layer PCB just for this reason. That would only increase the costs unnecessarily. I am happy with your board as it is. *By the way, what is the right word in English for the routes on the pcb : conductor, conductor path or trace?

I have a small suggestion in case there is ever a new board revision: In addition to the connections pads for the console buttons, it would be very practical if there were also connection pads for the signals required by a stereo Pokey extension (PokeyMax): - A4 - GTIA Bell (GTIA Pin 15) Even better: A5, A6 and A7 (for Quad Pokey, Covox or similar) I don't think that would be too much effort, but it would be a great help.

I have tested 5 more crystals. All purchased from Mouser: I had the best measured frequency with the ECS-35-30-4X: 3.57934 MHz Also good results with: LFXTAL016962Bulk and ECS-35-17-4X Only an grey image (no colors): ECS-35-17-1X and LFXTAL000052Bulk (All tests without additional capacitors) LFXTAL016962Bulk https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/449-LFXTAL016962BULK HC49/4H Frequency: 3.57945 MHz Load Capacitance: 30 pF ESR: 300 Ohms Tolerance: 30 PPM Color-Image: Yes Measured frequency: 3.57923 MHz --- ECS-35-17-4X https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/520-HCU357-17X HC-49/US Frequency: 3.579545 MHz Load Capacitance: 17 pF ESR: 200 Ohms Tolerance: 30 PPM Color-Image: Yes Measured frequency: 3.57917 MHz --- ECS-35-17-1X https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/520-HCA357-17X HC-49 Frequency: 3.579545 MHz Load Capacitance: 17 pF ESR: 120 Ohms Tolerance: 30 PPM Color-Image: NO Measured frequency: 3.57813 MHz --- ECS-35-30-4X https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/520-ECS-35-30-4X HC-49/USX Frequency: 3.579545 MHz Load Capacitance: 30 pF ESR: 200 Ohms Tolerance: 30 PPM Color-Image: Yes Measured frequency: 3.57934 MHz --- LFXTAL000052Bulk https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/449-LFXTAL000052BULK HC-49 Frequency: 3.579545 MHz Load Capacitance: 20 pF Tolerance: 10 PPM ESR: 150 Ohms Color-Image: NO Measured frequency: 3.57838 MHz