Robson

From the linked: "Both have updated graphics that is not available on github (I published earlier)." - but I double check these points. It will not go ahead with less than 30 interested /design anyway.

This is so specific to the STBook it won't work with any other ST series. STs have the floppy controller inside and on the floppy ports you see the disk drive control signals (like motor on, read, write, etc). The STBook has no fdd controller chip so it's housed in the drive, therefore those signals on the port are for the chip (and other half is for external hdd - since it's a dual purpose port)

I thought I share my latest here too. the NSTF-144 external Floppy Drive for STBook. The never released STBook floppy drive is now done. Works 100% as Atari imagined and maybe more...a port for external HDDs (so you won't lose the port when the FDD is connected) PCB, case, cables, manual, box all done. More info: https://sites.google.com/view/tercsirobi/home/atari-mania/projects/nstf-144

Hi, I'm researching if there's any interest in a new batch for these 2 boxes. (Sorry for cross linking but I'd like to collect the data mainly from this poll.) https://www.atari-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=41758 Attached 2 photos of previous batches. The white ST box will have a selector for 520/1040, stf/fm/e, 4160ste and falcon. Thanks. Robson

Glad it was just as simple as contact errors.

On this photo there is my board. You can see that I marked at the bottom which IC means which data bit. So it's not straight forward numbering from left to right. D8-D15 ICs first then D0-D7.

The large cap seems ok, the negative points to GND (large plane) and can see that the other end is connected to the plane that has the + silk mask mark. To disable the banks what you normally do is to lift the Ras and Cas resistors by the pins that are closer to the MMU, then join those lifted legs and connect them to +5V. This way the MMU ras/ cas lines are not connected to anything and the RAM pins are pulled to Vcc thorough the resistors. Schematics: https://www.gossuin.be/index.php/520-et-1040-stx You'd need a multimeter and a schematic to track the signals. Even though there is no specific schematic to this rev board (as far as I know) you know the MMU pins (18,21,22) so you just check for continuity. I can't remember but they are within the R90, 93, etc resistors (probably the first four from top but needs checking). You can see there are 2 "missing"...those points are connected, so you might need to cut a trace there temporarily. Before all of this I'd try getting a diag cartridge. Where are you based? I'd offer to borrow mine but it's not only the cart you need: Another ST and a serial cable or a serial to usb adapter and a serial cable to connect it to a PC that runs hyperterminal, to get all the messages outputs through serial. But this only happens if the boards boots to the point where the cart takes control. Hard to tell what is wrong with yours but the fact that you've seen the desktop before is not a bad sign. Clean on and off is probably 1 or more ram IC fail (I mean no garbage on screen, etc) not something complex that I had to face with. Definitely general cleaning and diag before cutting traces. For blobs, soldamop and a good solder sucker are your friends. I hope it helps somewhat.

Burn marks on resistors look like they're from the soldering iron, lazy option...soldered from component side, hence ugly work. The green is a capacitor (not resistor) though. The large cap is just a filter, the board should be operational without. You can fit at the end between +5V and gnd. Black screen with white border is ram or ram related problem (MMU/latches or lines). I had one of these, previously repaired, butchered boards in the past...it was a nightmare with multiple problems (sorry to say) to fix. However yours can be as simple as a failing ram IC. A diag cart + a pc with serial (running hyperterminal) could help you a lot even when the screen is black. Unfortunately they did not socket the upper half meg ram when expanded the board so it's a soldering job if you find the location(s). After cleaning, reseating socketed, checking for suspicious pins and reflow them, I'd disable the top Bank (lifting up ras/cas lines and tie to +5V). On this board I think it's the RAS lines that are not through resistors to ram chips just wired.

I see, sorry about the confusion. Unfortunately both my PSUs here are the Phiphong ones, so can't check the value for you. I let you know if I find anything useful.

Schematic. R19 - 20K https://www.gossuin.be/images/schemasatari/Power Supply Mega STE & TT.pdf

Just mentioned it as an alternative I used before, since it wasn't your original question. But worked for me keeping the VGA input for the falcon and the dvi for the ST, while the PC was on the display port. This was a scart to hdmi scaler and then I used an hdmi to dvi to the u2412m.

I agree about pricing. I didn't buy it, since the sources are available I made a batch for myself and friends. Yes, even on mine have those lines, this is why I took this many photos. I only showed my montior setup because it's the same model as yours but I don't use any STs with this at all. I have a smaller LCD TV (Syncmaster 940MW) with scart (or CM8833MK2) if I want decent quality. The thing is that something can display the signal, doesn't mean it's the right tool for the job. As you said proper signal conversion needed. But still might not give you the same crystal clean/sharp result you expect. I used scart - HDMI converter (then HDMI-DVI adapter to the monitor) before. I can try to dig out an image if you're interested in seeing that.

I have the same monitor and took some photos for you as reference. You definitely can achieve better. Mine is through ubeswitch and a cheap vga cable I had around.

"Water transfer" is water transfer printing or hydrographics. Easier if you look it up this way, there are many videos explaining it . Here is one: This is of course industrial, there are home kits and it's cheap. Just have to research finding the right primer and film (pattern) you need. My friend (Maarten @Atarilegend) who has Woody nr2 is planning a video about it later this year. I'll share once done. The keycaps are painted (dipped for the Woody) and I used my custom made sticker sheets for the letters (I designed them to match the Atari ST style and a company printed them). I had to go with this cheaper DIY option.

I have done some, that all have a story as well. Details here: https://sites.google.com/view/tercsirobi/home/atari-mania/projects