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electronizer

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  1. Thanks for taking a look. I was also leaning toward parallel since the ICs are just a transceiver and 16 flip flops. Agreed that writing software for it would be some effort. I’m looking for something inexpensive that will work on both a 2764 and a Motorola 68764.
  2. I got this EPROM burner in a lot of random Atari stuff. Looks like it’s pretty versatile, with jumpers to accommodate different pinouts and voltages. Anyone know where I can find more information on it?
  3. Thanks Keatah, that was exactly what I needed! I can’t believe I missed that jumper. Now I can save my game in Wings of Fury ?
  4. I have an Alaska card that I’m transferring from an Apple II+ to a //e. The manual says the card “won’t function correctly” if you don’t follow the instructions in the included installation note, which wasn’t included in the manual scan I have. I found a lo-res picture of it, but I can’t make out anything. Does anyone have a copy of this note, or an idea of what it might say?
  5. bob1200xl’s comment reminded me that I also ended up capturing from the luma output, which gave a nice, sharp picture. I may be remembering incorrectly, but I’m pretty sure the composite capture was still usable, just more blurry. I’ll have to dig out the setup I was using and try again. Not sure if it makes a difference, but I wasn’t using the fancy video editing software included with the device. I got my VC500 as a freebie with a VCR I bought some time ago, and there was no software or key included. I used Diamond’s basic capture tool that’s free to download online.
  6. I have one of these; it worked fine to capture the composite output from an unmodded 800XL: Diamond VC500 USB 2.0 One Touch VHS to DVD Video Capture Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VM60I8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_JJ92FbCQG4QJ6
  7. @kheller2, yes—you can find copies of the OS ROM and handlers here. Thanks again to @bob1200xl, who helped me dump them! @geneb I assume you’re talking about the red socket on the daughter board? There’s nothing missing, that’s how the daughter board plugs in to the main board. There are pins coming up from the main board that go into the red socket on the daughter board.
  8. Mine is #13. It is labeled as an engineering sample on the case, and also has a stick-on label that says “Atari 1450XLD / 1400XL 10-7 Used for PT68 Test” The 6 in PT68 looks like it was written over a 1.
  9. Wow Jason, that’s a great find! Thanks for the update! Looking forward to pictures. Now I just need to find that elusive 822 to complete my Atari 1st generation working printer collection.
  10. I found my BlackBox a few years ago at an electronics swap meet. I have it connected to the original 800XL our family got for Christmas ‘84. It talks to my SMM804 and Lantronix UDS-10. My BB has the Enhancer, and the other day I was having fun using it to print ATASCII characters to the SMM804. I was always impressed that Antic magazine listings had printouts of the special characters and wished I could do that, so it was exciting to see the printer crank them out! I have two SCSI drives somewhere, and if I can figure out parity, termination, and parameters, I might try hooking them up.
  11. Non-collector’s guide to selling Atari computers via online auction If it says Atari, it’s RARE. Put RARE in the auction title. Maybe put it two or three times so bidders will be sure to notice. If it says Atari, it’s VALUABLE. Don’t worry if it’s in poor condition, cracked, or not working. Even if all you have is the box (or part of the box), it’s worth money. Search online for your item and sort from high to low price. Offer yours for at least 20% higher than the highest price. If this seems like too much work, USD999.99 is always a good starting bid. If you can’t find your item in an active auction listing, it’s probably worth billions. If it says Atari, it’s IN DEMAND. Because it’s RARE (see #1), desperate collectors will fight over it. There’s no need to waste time and effort cleaning, gluing, or otherwise trying to fix it up, people will bid on it just the same. In fact, if it’s covered in dirt and looks like it came out of a landfill, people will probably pay more for it. If it says Atari, it’s INDESTRUCTABLE. No need to waste time and money on careful packaging. Throw everything into a box with a few pieces of crumpled up paper and ship it. Or, for even more cost savings, just wrap it in one sheet of bubble wrap and put a shipping label on it. If you position the shipping label just right, it can double as tape to hold the bubble wrap together.
  12. Well, my 130XE isn’t socketed so I decided to test everything else first and FREDDIE last. Found the problem: one of the Intel 2164 RAM chips is bad. The 1400XL is happy once again with an 8264 subbed in from my 800XL. I’m looking around for a place to buy a replacement chip. All the RAM chips in my 1400XL and 800XL are 150ns but I’ve heard 200ns will work as well, is that correct? Also, it looks like 2164, 4164, and 8264 RAM chips are all compatible, and you can even use a 41256 (256k) RAM chip, since the extra address bit is just tied to Vcc through a pull-up resistor.
  13. Thanks for the input everyone! AtariGeezer, good point about checking the basics first. All three voltages are present and correct on the board. Also, the sys-check device definitely looks like it would be worth it for fast diagnostics if I were going through lots of machines. I have a 1450 board. I’ll keep swapping parts and see if I come up with anything.
  14. My garage sale 1400XL decided to stop working sometime between VCF West 2018 and now. When I turn it on, all I get is a black screen. No luck on video or RF, and nothing with Star Raiders inserted either. I also tried booting with OPTION held down and seeing if I could start the audio test, but that didn’t work. So far I’ve swapped Sally, GTIA, ANTIC, and POKEY into a good 800XL, and they all work fine. I’ll need to dig out my 130XE so I can test FREDDIE. Nothing is burning up, though two of the PAL chips seem to be getting pretty hot. Any suggestions on what else to try? I have an oscilloscope if it would help to look at clock signals, etc.
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