drygol

@phoney, you can 3D print them using a service. Lots of PCB manufacturers offer 3D printing services.

It's nice to see ppl are actually making use of my lame blog posts. Regarding proper gel pens, well, I just bought a bunch and ran some tests. @Peri Noid thanks for heads-up

All of them were refurbished and found new users I am not a collector but I enjoy fixing stuff No problem, this is open source after all

Heh, looks like someone took my layout and sells it without any info on a PCB I've described this module here -> https://retrohax.net/sd2iec-revisited/ If you are getting 4.7VDC on power line then it might be a bit too small. Also, it also hangs if you swap some of DAT/ATN/CLK wires. I do this all the time hence this suggestion Another bug, check if ALL pins on a SD slot are properly soldered. Very often, SD card detection pin is not soldered properly. It is also possible that one of transistor is dead. I've made around 1000 of these boards with this specific layout and I know it works with 264 series without issues. https://retrohax.net/random-commodore-plus-4-hax/

PSU in my printer is pretty much dead but it is hard to diagnose without having schematics or a working unit. Does anyone have schematics of power supply for SLM-605 ?

He is

Yay, 7th time on hackaday! https://hackaday.com/2018/07/15/incredible-atari-800xl-case-restoration/

Thanks for kind words Here is a part two of this project. https://www.retrohax.net/extreme-refurbishing-episode-2-atari-800-xl-part-two/

Here is another Atari 800 XL that I worked on recently First part is already posted -> https://www.retrohax.net/extreme-refurbishing-episode-2-atari-800-xl-part-one/ Second part is being written right now ;P

Guys, just remember to keep keycaps in vapor no longer than a second or two. You can always repeat it if needed but the shorter you keep it in hot vapor the better the outcome.Acctually in CPC464 post on my blog there is this process shown on movie. For dark colors of keycaps, like in XL series also consider cleaning in sodium hydroxide (strong and caustic solution WARNING) but better test it on something cheap and not important. I've tested it on c64 , amstrad and 800xl and also on amiga 600 keycaps - all details posted already too.

You should definitely try long term (like 5+ days) method but warmth is crucial here. You will be surprised how well it works compared to sunlight exposure. Plus, it requires NO WORK at all.

Thx guys. @fjz , I am experimenting with whitening for around 4 years Look at other posts on my blog for different methods. Correlation of time and longevity of "white" is wrong IMO. If you treat plastic with peroxide for a longer time , say 7 days , sun is not required, warmth is. However, molecules that are removed by a peroxide in the process leave plastic surface very porous and that is direct cause of "yellow" color coming back faster. Only method is to fill porous surface with transparent paint for example. That will definitely slow down the process. However, you will not be able to whiten it again.

I just wanted to share my latest restoration project https://www.retrohax.net/atari-800-xl-u1m-and-restoration-2/

Kernal , very nice website ! About that ddos , go for CloudFlare service. It is free for non-commercial users and it will add quite durable caching mechanisms (plus various other stuff) to your website so larger traffic won't be a problem. That is what I did with my blog site and it works like a charm

... not exactly this sub-forum but just wanted to let you know that I didn't forget :> http://hackaday.com/2016/06/21/new-hard-drives-for-old-computers/