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the_crayon_king

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  1. I have my little station set up again. I made one kit just to make sure everything worked. I made the Orange Peel board which is the one with RGB/Composite/S-Video. IDK where the Baked Potato RGB/YPbPr kits are packed up in my house. Nor my component cable which I would need to test them. Anyway, I am ramping up to make another run and day now.
  2. The main issue was that one of the lines of the switch would not function; specifically on the PR line. I ohmed it out and the connections were good; and where they were supposed to be but it would not pass any signal at all (even though you could see it at the input). I'll have to look back into it to see if its something I can fix on the code/board or if I'll have to make a new batch. I did however validate the blanking part of this design by putting it in a Coleco. It blanks as intended. Since the PR line of the kit is not functioning (or maybe that one board is a dud) I have to backpeddle and figure out why. Likely, I'll have to make a new board and that is an expensive endeavor. What do you guys think about making a board that can work on either the Bally or Colecovision ? It wouldn't look as pretty but sales from the Colecovision would help offset the costs of the Bally development.
  3. Uh, yeah I am currently in the middle of packing up to move. I had put up all my soldering stuff up. Since I am fixing up the house I am going to that is where the majority of my time has been. I just ordered parts to do another 100 of these. Idk how long that will take to come in. If I had more encoders laying around (BH7236AF) I could do this now. Honestly never thought these would sell for this long.
  4. I made one at some point but it would only work through the XRGB scaler. Wouldn't even work through my CRT if I remember correctly. I am so far removed from that mod I don't really remember anything about it but I have it still hooked up behind me. https://i.imgur.com/HJa2TuU.png This is a Grundig Superplay 4000; it appears like there is native RGB out but I didn't use that for whatever reason. It may be so I could access the 4th bit which I have labeled "I" or "invert" and toggle the function directly (which is what is shown in the image posted above). This console is more of a pain that the Arcadia 2001 and there was even less interest in a kit so I never listed one but the code does exist. I could make one but I couldn't be too much help on installing it since I don't take notes
  5. https://www.ebay.com/usr/crayola_the_crayon_king just buy either the Intellivsion RGB/Component board or the Intellivison RGB/S-video/Composite board. Whichever suits your needs more. Then leave a note when you checkout that you need an Arcadia flashed board. Keep in mind the only install info is on this thread. That's it, it's kinda sparse. I know the RGB/Component board has been well tested.
  6. Its done I usually sell them as one of the other kits on ebay. I dont have a dedicated page for them since so few sell. The only install info is what you see on these pages.
  7. Yes, I have the kits to do the Bally here. I ordered 50 but I am missing the LMH1251s for putting many together but I have one or two for testing. If testing goes well I will put together a few for others to test. I don't have time to do anything at all till this Sunday. I should have pictures so hopefully it goes well. I have to write the code and I haven't so much as done anything with it yet (no time)/ The Fairchild is a whole nother thing. I couldn't figure it out because it's such a high voltage on the PPU and because they keep cooking themselves. I have spent over 1000 dollars on Fairchilds and idk if I can keep throwing money at it. I'm moderately certain its possible on the REV1; lets just focus on the Bally for now and Ill probably do a Coleco thing soon after.
  8. It is subtle on S-video and composite (per my memory). It also seems to go away sometimes based on a myriad of conditions perhaps most notably the console warming up. Those captures are RGB. You will have to zoom way in the see the issue. On lower video outputs like rf, composite and svideo the sawtooth will just look like a fuzzy border around pixel edges. I am not completely certain if S-video wouldn't have some sawtooth pattern too. I believe the same is true for my mod or any other mod., but there are alot of factors that could make a difference as far as TV, video scaler, etc etc. I have seen the same issue on random youtube videos before I had even made this mod. So I think this is something inherit in the console itself. Which could have a bunch of possible fixes as far as adjusting the existing timing circuit. I just think if phase shifting works for the OSSC then shifting the phase of the clock to the video kit should do the same thing? That was my theory anyway.
  9. Well respected? I'm blushing ;) There is one important caveat with the O2. The clearer you make the picture the more readily you can see the sawtooth pattern around pixels. Last I remember I was able to eliminate this by adjusting settings on the OSSC (particularly sampling phase in 4x mode). I wasn't able to figure out a clean way to fix this in the CPLD side of things. All O2 mods would have this issue unless they do some retiming of the signals; which would probably take a FPGA. Feel free to ignore the below: My most current theory that I have been going off is that there is some sort of jitter in either the video signals or the clock itself. Since adjusting the sampling phase of the OSSC fixed this issue that must mean clock to the CPLD needs to be phase shifted. I'll need to do research the best way to go about phase shifting a clock. Maybe the CPLD itself can do it?
  10. All those boards look identical; since only the code internally changes
  11. Anyway, not to double post. But I thought I should re-clarify I do have an Aquarius mod I just had the listing deleted at some point and was too lazy to remake it (since the info is spread out all over the place). This was the OG post https://forums.atariage.com/topic/322600-aquarius-rgb-mod/#comment-4858455 Here is the replacement listing for it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285171640870 I just thought anyone else stumbling upon this thread might want redirected to the kit's page intended to work on the Aquarius. I am still not sure what @towmater did to make the Intellvision kit work on the Aquarius in the first place. Since AFAIK the connections from one console to the other do not correlate?
  12. When doing S-Video or Composite mods on the Coleco I had the same type of jailbars but they were visible in about the same pattern as these. What I cannot remember is if the jailbars were on all channels or just luma. I do remember that filtering with the THS7374 seemed to help but I am stretching my memory here. You are right about removing things to get component on the TMS-RGB. You could get the same results of what I wanna do using this in addition to the TMS-RGB. The reason I wanna make my own thing is to see if it will have any effect positive or negative in comparison to the RGB from the TMS, to get these additional outputs, and because I need a different circuit (not like the TMS-RGB's sample and hold) to get RGB on the Bally Astrocade (which has the same issues as the colecovision but on both the R-Y and B-Y lines. I had also hoped that there were some TMS variants that would need both lines blanked instead of just the one. The TMS-RGB could also get Component output by just adding a THS7314 (or THS7316/THS7374) right before the LMH1251. I already had my basic idea working on the BALLY (with minor issues). However, because I started and stopped I kind of lost track of where I was on all that. I had a completed Coleco board/design ready to order and IDK where the design went. I am glad any of those designs can be useful to you. A lot of those projects are/were WIP and not something to be used. I usually leave notes about them (if no notes assume the worst). EASYEDA makes you do a lot of crap just to share projects so I stopped doing it at some point.
  13. It's not an artifact. I dunno if the jailbars are from the weird way colecovision offsets R-Y/B-Y (one of those two) or something to do with clock interference. According to me from 2016 using Component video through a THS7360 (or THS7374 fixed this issue). So I guess the LPF on both of those was enough to wipe it out or otherwise reduce it? Because I am a distractible person I haven't yet gotten around to making a true component/RGB kit (but I have recently started it up again).
  14. You could also try sending the 3.54mhz clock instead of the 7 mhz one. I think the instructions for the Aquarious mod attach at the 7mhz but only because it looked better than running off the 3.54mhz. The sync correction is timed off a 3.54mhz clock. I still have no idea how you have wired this or how the Aquarius correlates to the Intellivison exactly. For example most of the sync pulses were V5 and V1 being 1 on the Intellivision. I don't know how that works at all on the Aqua.
  15. Neat. Yea I made the code for the Aquarius and briefly sold them. The listing went away and I sort of lost all the install instructions. I do however have the code for both the rgb/component board (baked potato) and the composite/rgb/svid board (orange peel). The code for Baked Potato was tested pretty extensively so that is probably the way to go for now. Orange Peel is good if you want one of those other outputs or to use the SEGA RGB cables. I did write the code for OP but cannot remember if I tested it...The thing with OP is some consoles work better (look better) running a master clock of 2x the pixel clock; I am almost certain this was one of those consoles that needed two clocks to the OP kit. I believe both versions of the Aqua kit have an Intellivision color pallet programed as one of the options. I wrote the code for the Intellivision and the Aqua completely separately. As in I didn't realize there was any correlation. This raises a lot of questions. Anyway, ignoring my deep curiosity of what exactly you have done here for now... To answer your question Im not sure if you can make component work here. To make that kit work (without me reflashing it to use the Aqua code I have); the kit probably needs its sync input tied low (or possibly left attached to whatever it currently is); and instead get sync for RGB output from a different area. Bypassing sync through the kit entirely. The reason for your issues using the Intellivisions code is that sync is retimed to work on the Intellivision (to fix its broken sync). So this retiming is goofing up syncs functionality. The main correction is happening around vsync which is why you have rolling video Id guess. I will remake the listing eventually I just got really busy with non console things.
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