fluxit

Does it light up? If it lights up, and considering what you've tried, I'd say you should return it, or contact MyArcade. If the console doesn't light up a few seconds after the power button is pressed, you should try a different usb power cable as well.

So you have @Brad_from_the_80s' firmware flashed, correct? When you say that it wouldn't boot, do you mean that the GsP didn't make it to the point of asking whether you wanted the SD card browser or not? Does it work properly with the SD card removed? runme.sh should never affect the GsP's boot sequence, as it is only called when you attempt to load a game.

AFAIK, Brad_from_the_80s' firmware already includes similar capabilities to what mine allows, in addition to what it adds that is 'fully fleshed out,' though I can't say for certain as I've not tried or analyzed it. I've nothing against their firmware, I've just not been motivated to check it out. In any case, if your question is- can you replace one firmware with the other, the answer is yes, though you'd still have to use MyArcade's v1.30 firmware as the base of my patch as supplied. Basically, if you follow my directions, and have not had difficulty flashing your GsP's firmware in the past, you shouldn't have problems. Applying the patch to a different firmware image, and then flashing it may cause corruption, and I wouldn't recommend it.

My firmware patch allows this to be enabled. I believe that @Brad_from_the_80s firmware does as well?

The combination of my firmware patch, with GB_Baker's new RetroArch builds should allow you to remap your controller as you wish.

In my experience, that type of tester only has limited utility when testing old capacitors. It's good for telling you if you have a completely defective new cap when populating a board. Basically, I've had many times when the tester showed good results for capacity and ESR on a questionable cap that had been removed from the board, and when the cap was replaced with a new one, it fixed the problem.

Are you sure that "game" has been successfully killed? In my testing, I wasn't able to eliminate the game process, as init would always immediately restart it. This wasn't necessarily obvious unless you waited and checked for it again, as init wouldn't bring the new "game" to the foreground. The script that starts game also doesn't properly respond to "stop." The game process can be successfully "paused" and made unresponsive, however. Of course this doesn't help WRT memory usage.

Perhaps, but how many Couchcades have actually sold? The thing is *way* overpriced for what it is and includes. It's in Apple pricing range, which sadly seems to be what Arcade1up is shooting for with most of their products lately.

Choplifter! on the 7800 is a bit of a strange beast. The SMS is the most enjoyable version, IMO. It has great graphics, slightly easier control than the arcade version, and multiple stages like the arcade- though it isn't arcade accurate. The 7800 version has control that is somewhere between the SMS and the arcade, IIRC. It also has quite good graphics, and plays well. Unfortunately, it only has the one stage, like the home computer originals.

Have you tried @GB_Baker's RetroArch builds? They do still need some work, but as it is- the first build they released worked with every controller I threw at it, so long as it is compatible with the GsP's Linux kernel, which doesn't exclude many controllers. And if you don't want to use the RetroArch menu, it's entirely possible to substitute a new RA build, but continue to use the GsP's built in menu. You'd just have to use RetroArch to configure your controller(s) first, assuming the defaults were not to your liking(or if the defaults are unusable, as the case may be with some controllers.)

If you set your tank on top of one of the orange squares, it will refuel your tank.

People have mentioned pencil erasers, and I'm sure that these have been discussed before on AtariAge, but I'd like to add my recommendation for the electric eraser. They work really well for that Activision cart that still has significant visible carbon(or green corrosion, as the case may be) on the contacts, even though you've scrubbed and scrubbed with a swab and IPA, and the swab no longer removes anything. The electric eraser can give your contacts back that clean, shiny appearance. Yes, it's mildly abrasive, so don't go overboard, but they don't have super high speeds, or overly torquey motors so they shouldn't be likely to cause damage if used carefully. The eraser can be extended to access contacts without cart disassembly, by applying a small piece of tape to the eraser holder. This will keep the eraser from working itself out of the holder while in use. On Amazon. On AliExpress. On Ebay.

Pitfall Harry's Rolex.

Do you have user_language = "0" in your retroarch.cfg?

I've not tested to answer your first question. You could just call the binary using its full path though? Not that it matters as what you came up with works fine. Ah yes, the switches under the sticks. I forget that they are there most of the time. The problem is sorted. This version of RetroArch apparently requires the core info, and only the core info AFAICT, in order to function 'manually,' using the menu. Unfortunately, retroarch/info is one of the directories that was not automatically created by the program. Once I unzipped info.zip into /sdcard/retroarch/info, your build of RetroArch is working well for me.